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Thread: .380 and Bullseye question

  1. #1
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    Default .380 and Bullseye question

    Last summer I loaded up some .380 auto 95gr. FMJ with 2.2 grains of Bullseye, minimum load is 2.0. They cycled fine , only shot about five of them for a test. I loaded up another 50 and didn't make it back to the range until early winter when it was right around freezing. That trip they would not cycle the action, specifically they would not eject all the way, kept getting caught in the slide. Tried them in my wife's Ruger and my Taurus, same results in both guns.

    So my question is, is Bullseye particularly temperature sensitive and is that likely why they didn't cycle?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    No Bulseye isnít very temp sensitive at all, itís the 45acp ball powder the military used. All powders very some with hot and cold temps though.
     
    I think what you have is a load that was right on the edge of too light in good conditions and taking it into adverse conditions it proved too light. In the cold not only dose any powder loose a bit but springs are stiffer, any oil is more gummy and your slide will need a little more poot to cycle back hard enough.

    Artic type conditions any oil will mess up any auto BAD, lot of AR guys run dry lubes or even just dry guns in the real cold.
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    Thanks for the input, I hadn't thought about the springs, I didn't think it was quite cold enough for the oil to gum but ok didn't pay that close of attention either. I should have thought of that, I run my AR dry when calling in the winter!

    I think I'll bump up the charge and try a few more test loads, I wasn't anywhere near max.


    Thanks again!


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    Here's a comparison you might not have though of. Somewhere a bud of mine came up with a 10" TC barrel in 380. Dunno who made it, and frankly don't know what made him buy it. The bigger deal though was in shooting it. Even with full snort factory loads, there just wasn't any recoil to speak of in that heavy gun. Even 38 specials in a 10" 357 barrel had noticeably more recoil.

    Your reduced loads? Imagine how they would have felt in that TC barrel.

    Bottom line, you're just not working with a lot of recoil in a factory load, and a lot less in your handload. It's easy to see that any increase in friction from thicker oils or colder springs is going to rob you of the forces needed to cycle the action.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    Here's a comparison you might not have though of. Somewhere a bud of mine came up with a 10" TC barrel in 380. Dunno who made it, and frankly don't know what made him buy it. The bigger deal though was in shooting it. Even with full snort factory loads, there just wasn't any recoil to speak of in that heavy gun. Even 38 specials in a 10" 357 barrel had noticeably more recoil.

    Your reduced loads? Imagine how they would have felt in that TC barrel.

    Bottom line, you're just not working with a lot of recoil in a factory load, and a lot less in your handload. It's easy to see that any increase in friction from thicker oils or colder springs is going to rob you of the forces needed to cycle the action.
    Yeah that makes sense, I wasn't really worried about recoil, I just always start low when hand loading, this is the first semi-auto pistol I've loaded for too.

    I'll take a look at my book and pick something closer to a mid load to test.

    Thanks!


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