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Thread: Who in ANC would you have reblue your rifle?

  1. #1

    Default Who in ANC would you have reblue your rifle?

    I have a pre war M 70 I would like reblued. I DO NOT want over buffing with all detail lost. Perhaps having the finish "'restored" to original would be a better description. I looked at turnbulls prices and they are not nearly as bad as I thought, but I hate shipping guns. Any one local you think can do compatible work?

  2. #2
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    If Colt and S&W can't do work comparable to Turnbull, it is unlikely you will find a local smith to do nearly as well as Turnbull. But I admittedly haven't seen reblue work from many up here.

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    I do rust bluing/browning here (anything I have getting hot chemical goes to Arizona) no buffer at all ever, all hand work. I hate buffers, fast yes but they wash out lettering, round off corners making wondering lines, dish out screw holes, and turn anything large and flat (lever/shotgun receiver, 1911 slide) all wavy looking.

    What I do looks nothing like what Winchester did, I think it looks better but you judge. Lot of guys do very good looking work but I never seen any come out just like the old Winchester process.

    Winchester 88 (post 64 in 284) that had no blue in spots and some pitting along the receiver top line.
    IMG_0327.jpgIMG_0325.jpg
    Andy
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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Cople more. Wood is raw on this, owner is doing it.
    IMG_0319.jpgIMG_0326.jpg
    Andy
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    I do rust bluing/browning here (anything I have getting hot chemical goes to Arizona) no buffer at all ever, all hand work. I hate buffers, fast yes but they wash out lettering, round off corners making wondering lines, dish out screw holes, and turn anything large and flat (lever/shotgun receiver, 1911 slide) all wavy looking.

    What I do looks nothing like what Winchester did, I think it looks better but you judge. Lot of guys do very good looking work but I never seen any come out just like the old Winchester process.

    Winchester 88 (post 64 in 284) that had no blue in spots and some pitting along the receiver top line.
    IMG_0327.jpgIMG_0325.jpg
    I Will send you pics of what I have tomorrow [need sun for good photo's] and you can tell me what you think.


    Missed this before on Turnbulls price list-

    THE PRICES LISTED BELOW APPLY ONLY TO
    PRE-POLISHED AND DISASSEMBLED PARTS
    THAT ARE READY FOR FIREARM FINISHING.

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Iím no Doug Turnbull but Iím happy to take a look.

    Iíve seen a lot of guys take a quick look at Turnbull website then get sticker shock after itís all added up. Donít get me wrong he does great work and is just charging what his market will pay, if he was cheaper heíd need to speed everything up to keep up and that wouldnĎt be good.
    Andy
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    Member Ak-pilot's Avatar
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    I am also interested in getting a model 70 458 Lott redone. I emailed you on your website for price and timeframe. Thanks

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    I had Wild West re-blue a family heirloom Remington 721. It turned out great.

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ak-pilot View Post
    I am also interested in getting a model 70 458 Lott redone. I emailed you on your website for price and timeframe. Thanks
    Got it and replied but forgot timeframe.

    Iím about 4-6 weeks right now give or take a little but if we need parts or send anything out (anodizing any aluminum bottom parts or replacing it with steel) we become at the mercy of the marketís timelines.
    Andy
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    I do rust bluing/browning here (anything I have getting hot chemical goes to Arizona) no buffer at all ever, all hand work. I hate buffers, fast yes but they wash out lettering, round off corners making wondering lines, dish out screw holes, and turn anything large and flat (lever/shotgun receiver, 1911 slide) all wavy looking.

    What I do looks nothing like what Winchester did, I think it looks better but you judge. Lot of guys do very good looking work but I never seen any come out just like the old Winchester process.

    Winchester 88 (post 64 in 284) that had no blue in spots and some pitting along the receiver top line.
    IMG_0327.jpgIMG_0325.jpg
    Poor photo I know but this is the worst pitting. you can see it on top of the barrel just above the stamping. Those discolored patches are rust pits very sallow but there. Look like something you would be interested in?


    http://

  11. #11
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Well that big booger next to the ďWĒ may be a problem, I can get it but that close to the letter the blending may be into the letter. Itís an it is what it is deal but yea Iím game. I think it will look great but wonít know till until we know how deep the pit goes . . . Sometimes they look big but are shallow and other times they look tiny but go deep.
    Andy
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  12. #12

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    ad- what about this 1917 S&W? I know it looks nasty but the pitting is very sallow. Regarding the M 70 yes that pit is unfortunely close to the barrel stamping. But it is also sallow and the stamping is deep and strong. It[the stamping] could lose a few thousands with no ill effect. I just don't want the letters to have rounded off edges. How do polish barrels without a buffer? Shoe shine method with strips of sandpaper?

    http://

  13. #13
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    The Smith looks like it would come out fine. Smith used some alloy in the frames that seems fairly rust resistant. There are a couple spots on the corners of the cylinder flutes that may not come all the way out but likely only I would ever see them after itís all done.
     
    I polish to 400 grit emery cloth by hand using all kinds of shapes to back the cloth, almost never just holding the cloth in hand because fingers apply uneven pressure that can make waves. Itís having backing behind the cloth that protects the stampings and corners, it canít bend around the corner to dip into the letter so doesnít round off the corner as it comes out. A buffer canít help but fall in there then wash out the edge as it gets ripped back out. I do use buffers but not on anything to be blued, only on bolts, triggers, and other parts where I want a mirror like shiny steel .
     
    The polished look, the luster or sheen in the finish doesnít come from a buffer wheel or from the work up front. It comes from carding off the red oxides with steel (both .004Ē fine wire wheel and 0000 wool) and leaving the thin layer of hard black oxides behind. The finer the starting polish the longer it takes to build the black oxide so you donít want it too fine but scratches bigger than about 300 grit will not fill in and will show in the finish so 400 grit is about the best starting polish.
     
    Seems funny but rust blue or brown is very rust resistant. When you put on the first solution it turns red right now but you get to a point building up the black layers where you just about canít make it rust even using a solution designed to rust. Then you oil over that, the oxide soaks in the oil and itís about as rust resistant a finish there is short of plating.
    Andy
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  14. #14

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    Thanks AD. I can't do any right now due to ummm "income difficulty's" but will bring you the work when I can. Think I will start with the S&W. I do admire your patience in developing a workable rust blue technique. I tried years ago and could never get it to come out.

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    No problem, whenever your reedy.
     
    Rust blue isnít complicated but a lot of work and many layers before it all evens out. I think most that try and fail just stop too soon, it looks like heck at first but comes together if you keep at it. Like anything the more you do it the better you get as you learn from mistakes and pick up little tricks.
    Andy
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    Member Float Pilot's Avatar
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    Somebody showed me a rifle that AD had done for them and I thought it was very nice. I like rust blueing...
    I will take my next project to him once I figure out what it will be.....
    Floatplane,Tailwheel and Firearms Instructor- Dragonfly Aero
    Experimental Hand-Loader, NRA Life Member
    http://site.dragonflyaero.com

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    No problem, whenever your reedy.
     
    Rust blue isnít complicated but a lot of work and many layers before it all evens out. I think most that try and fail just stop too soon, it looks like heck at first but comes together if you keep at it. Like anything the more you do it the better you get as you learn from mistakes and pick up little tricks.
    Don't sell your self short AD. When I say I tried rust blueing I mean I really worked at it. I started with the old formulas in Roy Dunlaps book. I had bottles of fuming nitric acid, built a sweat box, bought a .004 stainless carding wheel.
    Then I tried some of the newer brush on stuff. Same results,bad.

    I did manage to rust purple a 03 extractor, however.

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