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Thread: walking beam meat trailer questions

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    Default walking beam meat trailer questions

    So I had a aluminum tub bent up. I will weld up the ends today and start the frame. My question is when the trailer is sitting flat and level, how much space between the tires and tub do I need? Another way said: how much articulation does the tires need reasonably? I know if it could rotate 360 it would be better, but I'm thinking about 10-12"? Any ideas?

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    Member Laker Taker's Avatar
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    Here's a photo of my Husky trailer. They use a ultiflex walking beam and the space between the tires and tub is about 6".
    P1010829.jpg

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    Nice lookin' trailer ya got there Laker Taker...I like the decoration on top too.
    "Grin and Bear It"

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    Thanks for a speedy reply. In your experience is 6" a good amount of articulation? And what is the ground clearance ?

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    Member Laker Taker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shayno View Post
    Thanks for a speedy reply. In your experience is 6" a good amount of articulation? And what is the ground clearance ?
    I'm not at home to measure but I would say I have 12" of ground clearance and the 6+" (movement each way) of articulation works great. My trailer stays glued to the ground absorbing all of the humps and bumps in the trail, it doesn't bounce at all.

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    i went to sportsmans today and measured the pac rat they have. It was 7" of clearance when it was level. I know they have a good reputation and know what they are doing. So with that said, i think i will use that as a minimum starting point. I am curious to see what the husky measures. Also, do you guys recommend fuel racks? if so, the front or back? either way i am going to run a piece of 2x2 square steel the length of the trailer and put a d ring on the back so i can pull from behind.

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    Member gutleap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shayno View Post
    ....Also, do you guys recommend fuel racks? if so, the front or back? either way i am going to run a piece of 2x2 square steel the length of the trailer and put a d ring on the back so i can pull from behind.
    I would definately fabricate a rack for fuel cans. It is nice to have extra fuel not only for yourself but for others that may need it. I fabricated a fuel tank on the front of one of my meat wagons and put a hand pump on it. Worked real good except it was a little heavy on the tongue when full.

    Instead of putting a D ring on the back, put a ball on there so you can pull more than one trailer if needed. One year our hunting party had some breakdowns with their wheelers and argos and I was able to pull their trailers out as they all have a ball hitch on the back. I do that with all the meat wagons I build. Just my thoughts.


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    Holy crap that's a train!! That's a good idea about the ball. So I will add the ball and then add fuel can rack on the front.

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    Member Music Man's Avatar
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    Looks like that last meat wagon is overloaded by the looks of the tire!
    When seconds count, the cops are just minutes away.
    '08 24' HCM Granite HD "River Dog"

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    Member gutleap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Music Man View Post
    Looks like that last meat wagon is overloaded by the looks of the tire!
    Yes it is. The guy originally pulling it broke an axle and his track kept coming off. So he unloaded some of his gear and the track that he threw and we put it on top of his trailer and hooked it up to the others so we could get out back to the landing. The same with the second trailer that I am pulling also.

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    ok guys I have the main body all done and the frame all done. Except the fuel rack and the ball on the back. I ended up with 16" of clearance and 14" of space between the top of the tire and the tub. I left the sides of the tub rather tall, the total height is about 49" from the garage floor to the top of the rail. I did that after talking with 2 different guys that have been pulling meat wagons for many years that said that if they could change their design they would make the sides taller to start with. I did a test and put 100#'s in a box and made sure I can lift it over the side comfortably, wasn't t to bad.
    Ill post more detailed pics later today.1473001_619993621394057_1464834440_n.jpg

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    IMAG0405.jpgIMAG0399.jpgim not completely done, I still need to add a ball to the back and build a fuel can rack on the back. I also need to weld caps on the ends of the walking beams as not to fill with debris. Any one have any good constructive criticism? I might have missed something. Oh and I know the aluminum welding is not perfect, this is really my first time running this much.

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    Good Job!!!

    Thin Aluminum is hard to weld and make it look pretty, unless you have a lot of experience welding aluminum.

    If you want to know if the weld to be water tight and you have a air compressor, put soap and water on one side of the weld and blow air on the opposite side to find any pin holes.

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    That's a good idea. I'm not to concerned about leaks. I think I'm getting the hang of it, i welded up a coupons and did a bend test on a press and they passes everytime. May not be pretty but will hold hopefully. It would be nice to see someone who's good at it weld with that miller spool gun.

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    Member Music Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shayno View Post
    im not completely done, I still need to add a ball to the back and build a fuel can rack on the back. I also need to weld caps on the ends of the walking beams as not to fill with debris. Any one have any good constructive criticism? I might have missed something. Oh and I know the aluminum welding is not perfect, this is really my first time running this much.
    Did you put in "easy to remove" drain plugs?
    When seconds count, the cops are just minutes away.
    '08 24' HCM Granite HD "River Dog"

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    What size tires did you put on it? I have a pac rat and I love it but the 22" tires don't give enough clearance and I have to use a drop hitch on my atv.

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    I would have never imagined walking beam axils on such short trailers ,but that's great I love it .
    Hat's off to you all.
    I would offer a word of caution about your tow vehicle though , the drive train and axils on those are not necessarily designed for those kind of loads both axial and radial and lineal.
    Consider spare or special attention to these things seeing that so much more added load is being demanded.

    So far as the walking beam I was thinking that the same principle might also be applied to skis in place of tires or an adaptor to that effect.
    The less tow load, the easier it is on the drive train.
    Front skis would ride to the inside , rear skis would ride to the out side, over lapping their foot print between them front to back.
    Better displacement of weight across ice and a higher ride on the snow.
    If the axils could pivot on a hinge the way a skier drops his edge into the hill, one might be able to rig linkage to articulate with the tow vehicle steering . making it work in concert with your vehicle.
    I am thinking the use of hydraulic rams both as driver and slaves.
    I know that's pretty elaborate ,but I enjoy that kind of experimentation.
    I always manage to learn something out of it.
    I've towed stuff on snow and inevitably the sled want's to pull my tail end down the hill I'm going across .
    Just a thought .

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    just saw your question from long ago... sorry.. they are 25" Yamaha grizzly wheels and tires. I redrilled the rim as an experiment.. to this date months later its working still!

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    From what I've heard from buddy's that have or have had tandem axle trailers, those 2 xtra tires add a lot more floatation in water and can/do flip over a bit more easily. Especially empty or lightly loaded... Nice work though...
    Just my .02...

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