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Thread: White Ash on HB...

  1. #1
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    Default White Ash on HB...

    Is this common ??? This is the end of the second year with my new HB. When I bought it, the guy said ,they only put a little spar varnish on them from the factory and recommend before using it..to put at least 3 coats of Helmsmen spar on it. Thats what I did. Now I am getting this.......Do you folks have this on your 2 year old HB ??? I like to keep it sparkling !!! This drives me nuts....HELP

  2. #2
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    It's very common. I have started using an oil finish as none of the varnishes I have used have lasted.

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    as canoes flexes the wood also will , paint will flex causing the paint to get small cracks in letting water in ? you could put a little TUNG oil on it
    to help reseal it a couple times a year , I am not a wood worker or painter but just an idea , a more experance person could give there idea on it

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    I have the ash gunnels on my Scott also. Its a yearly spring ritual to sand'm, re-stain them, and spar varnish. The sanding and re-staining can be started and completed within one hour or so only; its a fast operation. The spar varnish takes longer.

  5. #5
    Member bobmikk's Avatar
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    FamilyMan.....Do you power sand or use block/paper and hand sand. Do you remove the hardware or try to sand around the bolt heads?

    Thinking a few of us here are in for some spring time work in rails.....any insight or advice will help, thanks.

  6. #6
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Why not replace the hard ash with cedar or cypress and kinda forget about it?
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    I use a power sander (orbital. never a belt sander; that'd take off too much meat) to start with, then a block/sandpaper next. I don't remove any hardware.

    I also do not sand down to bare unfinished wood either. Sand off any bad areas of varnish that have turned grey, and then make sure you've got the edges/border sanded between areas you have to sand a lot and the ones that only need a little.

    Then when I stain there is still much (stain) color still in the wood, but most of it has an open grain. If large stretches of gunnel are just fine, then they get only lightly sanded and might not have an open grain.

    Then when applying stain, it'll soak into the open grained wood parts and not be in the parts that still have a viable bit of varnish on them; but no worries.

    Then when applying spar varnish all areas accept it whether newly stained or whether there's still old/good varnish or not. By the second coat of varnish its all closed grain. I probably put 3 coats of varnish on but I imagine it varies.

    Wood is easy to make look great - and fun.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amigo Will View Post
    Why not replace the hard ash with cedar or cypress and kinda forget about it?
    I don't know cypress, but I sure know that cedar is way too soft of a wood. You need a hardwood.

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