Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Reinforcing fetching for a brittany

  1. #1
    Member honeybadger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Vikings Country AK
    Posts
    177

    Default Reinforcing fetching for a brittany

    I don't think I could teach my lab not to fetch if I tried, and while he's at home in a duck blind he won't walk anywhere but right behind me in the woods until I shoot something. And Im talking so close I will kick him in the chin about every fifth step I take. I don't know why he does this, and stopped trying to get him to work a long time ago.

    I have the opposite problem with my brittany. Toby works the field great, follows commands and points. When I shoot a bird he will locate it. If its alive and flopping about he will pick it up and bring it back. If the bird is lifeless when he locates it he will sniff it and mouth it and lose interest in it and move on to find the next bird once I walk up to it.

    My question is, how can I train him effectively to fetch to hand without force retrieve training him? I don't want to do that in fear of screwing him up by doing it incorrectly. Anyone have any tips? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    975

    Default

    Well, if you can't do it yourself than I'd hire a pro. I can refer you to two of them here in the interior. But if you don't want to go that way...you could try teaching "hold." On the run at the moment. Be back later. You might also get away with this trick: when the dog is messing with the down bird but won't bring it back, try walking away. In some cases the dog will pick that bird up and bring it back to you. If he starts dropping it at your feet that's when the hold command works wonders. But you should consider hiring a pro.

  3. #3
    Member honeybadger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Vikings Country AK
    Posts
    177

    Default

    Thanks for the heads up Jim, I'll give it a shot this weekend see what he does.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Chugiak, Alaska
    Posts
    319

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by honeybadger View Post
    I don't think I could teach my lab not to fetch if I tried, and while he's at home in a duck blind he won't walk anywhere but right behind me in the woods until I shoot something. And Im talking so close I will kick him in the chin about every fifth step I take. I don't know why he does this, and stopped trying to get him to work a long time ago.

    I have the opposite problem with my brittany. Toby works the field great, follows commands and points. When I shoot a bird he will locate it. If its alive and flopping about he will pick it up and bring it back. If the bird is lifeless when he locates it he will sniff it and mouth it and lose interest in it and move on to find the next bird once I walk up to it.

    My question is, how can I train him effectively to fetch to hand without force retrieve training him? I don't want to do that in fear of screwing him up by doing it incorrectly. Anyone have any tips? Thanks.

    Why would you think you will screw it up? Force Fetch I mean.
    People get the mis-conception that FF is a cruel and brutal training..........it's not.... or it does not need to be.
    Where are you at? We train all winter in the Chugiak area and I bet we can get your dog to fetch it up...
    I would agree with Jim but I have never hired a Pro and don't feel getting a dog to retrieve is that big a deal.
    Retrieve is important, good luck.
    Don
    Forgive me for being arrogant. I own 2 Drahthaar's.
    Tundramoor Drahthaar Kennel. Training Versatile Dogs because we hunt it all.
    Memeber of the Alaska Warterfowl Association.

  5. #5
    Member click's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    usaf
    Posts
    127

    Default

    While i am by no means a pro, i would think FF would fix this issue. FF is realy not hard to work through either, i just FF my boy and once you establish the standard it's actually easy. I worked on walking hold for long time while letting him mature, then once the pup was mentally their we went into FF. I only had one issue with FF, and let me tell ya it was embarising.
    We had been doing good or so i thought, till i consulted with a pro on it. We had a bumper, he told him fetch, my dog looked at him like you wnat me to do what... so then i was shown that the missing ingediant in my FF program was the actual force. It's really not hard or in human on the dog. It's about teaching them what you want and that they will be held accountable or corrected if they chose to do things their way and not yours. It's more of a motivation tool if you ask me, and it teaches them to function under pressure. I would be more than willing to assist if you like, or if you have any questions. If i can't help i know someone who can. Once i got my boy through FF it was a night and day differance.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •