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Thread: Planar heaters? Anyone?

  1. #1

    Default Planar heaters? Anyone?

    Anybody using one of these heaters in there boat? If so, are they working out ok? I know the Espar D2 is a good heater, I might just go with it. Just looking at saving a couple hundred bucks .

  2. #2
    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Check out "snugger" brand heaters.
    Another member installed one and seemes pleased with the result.
    BK

  3. #3

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    OK, thanx I'll see if I can find out anything.

  4. #4
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    I am interested in these planar heaters as well and was seeing I anyone has given one a whirl....

  5. #5
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    I put one in my boat last year and have great luck with it so far. Set the control box on the dash and ran some 3'' duck to the birth/ main cabin and it works fine. Seams to sip the oil as well.

    Sweepint
    Wasilla, (when not overseas)
    '' Livn' The Dream ''
    26' Hewescraft Cuddy, twin 115 Yam

  6. #6

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    Just wrapped up a few projects on a Tolman Jumbo for a friend. There wasn't any lights on the boat and the wiring was barely adequate so we went with all LED nav lights, interior lights, deck lights. Also installed a Planar 44D heater we got from bk on here and the install was a breeze except for fuel line/leaking issues which we corrected. 1/4" fuel line was called out for the intermediate connections with the poly fuel line except the clamps that come with the hardware pack will no way no how fit around 1/4 fuel hose so went with 3/16". Then the next problem was finding a fuel filter to fit the 3/16 line. Had to neck down a cheapo plastic filter but then the whole assembly leaked at the clamp connections. Found a Kohler filter that fixed it; I'll get a part number on that because that's the filter I'd use now on every time. It has a "stepped" neck that will accommodate either 3/16 or 1/4 fuel hose. No leaks after that and the filter was like 4 bucks at Napa.
    Impressed with the ease of wiring and install compared to my Espar. Also the Planar is at minimum 50% quieter coming thru the exhaust.
    Anyone considering a new heater should consider these Planars. I've had 2 Espars and I'd definitely go with the Planar as its a lot cheaper and Brian is great to work with.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  7. #7

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    I would sure like any details you can provide about the Planar 44D install. Right now I'm getting my "ducks" in a row(haha). I mean installing ducts for the heater / defroster. It dosent look like your install required any ducts. I would sure like to get a look at the exhaust through hull fitting and where it penetrates the hull and what it looks like from the inside and outside. I think I will try to make one out of aluminum and weld it in place. I planning to include a "hot box" like bk talked about. Sounds like a useful mod. I incorporated the defroster ducting into the structure of my dash. Certainly not as simple / easy as your install but I hope it proves worth the effort. I'm hoping eliminate the need for a fan on the dash so I super sized the defroster ducting. Looks a little weird but I'll get use to it.

  8. #8
    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    PC, the install on these things is pretty simply. Brian can knock it out for you your pretty quick or you can too. They are a bit quieter than the ESPAR. They use about the same amount of fuel too. Lay it all out on paper and should be a fun weekend project. Give BKmail a shout and he will show you how it all goes together. Oh and no matter what, figure in a hotbox somewhere in your layout. Best idea ever.. Trust me, you will love it.
    27' Wooldridge Super Sport Offshore Pilothouse PRIME TIME!
    Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle Pro Staff
    Heavy Hitter Fishing Crew
    MMSI# 338232859

  9. #9

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    Yea Brian is / has been very helpful / great guy to work with but the last time I talked to him he didnt have any through hull exhaust fittings for me to look at. The 44D is no problem for me to install. But info like Big Jim offered on the hose clamp / filter / leak issue would save me some time. I also need to figure out what kind of ducting to use to get from the Planar heater to my hot box. It's only about 2' and it's out of site and easily secure able. Can u use aluminum dryer vent material or maybe some kind of stove pipe?? I figure I need a short peice (1' or so) of that expensive flexable ducting to go from the 44D to the rigid ducting. But I think the rigid ducting can be something inexpensive. Maybe BK will see this post and steer me to something proven. I also need to buy some 3" plastic vents with vanes I can direct and close off the air flow. Ones I saw online were $30 each! I need 4. I havnt checked NAPA yet though. It's on my list

  10. #10
    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    All those little pieces parts are expensive and hard to come by. Mostly due to the size of them. It;s not a normal size like a drier vent hose. I guess if it's out of sight you could use some aluminum tape to make things work, but definitely not ideal. Advanced diesel in Anchorage carries all that stuff. I think he sells the vent hose by the foot. Might be worth a try there.
    27' Wooldridge Super Sport Offshore Pilothouse PRIME TIME!
    Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle Pro Staff
    Heavy Hitter Fishing Crew
    MMSI# 338232859

  11. #11

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    Pc, are you talking about the smaller version heater? The 44d has about a 4" outlet. We did get some flex ducting, "Y" fittings and 3 vents but after seeing how big it all was, there was just no way to hide any of it in the Tolman so we ditched it. Necking it down to 3" and using black ducting (Espar's is like that, I installed a d2 in my boat last spring) anything Espar and/or Advance Diesel is pretty pricy, should be able to find other avenues online.
    I know of 2 alum boats (besides mine) in the harbor that run & fish year round, one is an OP and the other is a 30' charter boat. Both of those guys have heaters and no ducting or vents and have no problem keeping the boat warm and windows clear. Crack the door or a window while the heater is running and all should be fine. Worst case is install a fan on the drivers window but I haven't used mine since I put in the espar.
    I would hold out for a real thru hull exhaust from Brian, they're engineered for that purpose and it gets really hot. I think they're double walled built as well and maybe cuts down on the heat factor?
    Buy an espar one if you're in a hurry online. The Tolman already had a 90 degree exhaust elbow/thru hull fitting and mated right up to the Planar exhaust tubing.
    We're not doin the hotbox thing; the whole boat is that way
    Also the pics don't show it but I ran more exhaust sock insulation all the way on the tubing.
    Check out Quickwater Adventure water taxi/transport services: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Quick...37553606260978

  12. #12

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    No I bought a Planar 44D from BK on his advice. He said for the small price difference the bigger unit was a better value because the gas tank and some other stuff comes with it. I was concerned it would soot up running on low allot and Brian said that hasn't been a problem. Your advice for no ducting needed is a little late. I spent most of last week building my dash and I built the defroster duct into it. I'm still glad I did though. It will put the heat right where it's needed, with no extra fans needed (I hope). I have the room for 4" ducting no problem and out of sight. I will call around for ducting parts n pieces and see what Fairbanks has to offer. I thought I measured 3.25" on the Planar duct hub. So You were going to adapt that to 4"? Then decided 3" worked better for you? I don't know why an Aluminum through hull exhaust fitting wouldn't work?. So what if it gets hot. Nothing dissipates heat better than aluminum. I hate installing any stainless fittings on my hull if there is an AL option. I had stainless bow rail fittings, cleats, rod holders ect ect on my current project boat and I got rid of it because there was bad corrosion under all of it. I had to cover or cut out all those areas where stainless covered Alum once. I'm Not doing it again!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Predator Control View Post
    I hate installing any stainless fittings on my hull if there is an AL option. I had stainless bow rail fittings, cleats, rod holders ect ect on my current project boat and I got rid of it because there was bad corrosion under all of it. I had to cover or cut out all those areas where stainless covered Alum once. I'm Not doing it again!
    I don't want to high jack this thread. I think its important to mention that the problem you have with corrosion under the S.S. was not because the builder used S.S. If the area is expose to the element and aluminum is touching another metal including Aluminum there will be corrosion between the two metals over time unless precaution are taken to prevent it.

    Merry Christmas

  14. #14

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    No corrosion will happen if I weld an aluminum exhaust through hull fitting on. That's my point. I want to avoid setting myself up for future corrosion problems

  15. #15

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    I'll double check but I'm pretty sure the outlet on the planar is 4" (not to insult you by any means but I think the other end of the unit on the intake side measures smaller). The Tolman has no dash per se to hide the big silver duct hose so we ditched that idea and after having been on my buddies 30' alum charter boat which he runs all winter long with a non ducted heater and 6-8 people at a time, it has no window fogging issues and doesn't run a fan so I felt okay with setting up the Tolman like that.
    Necking down to 3" black ducting would've opened up more possibilities but didn't have the time to search for that or wait for shipping, etc.
    I have an Espar d2 on my boat and went thru hell ducting that bugger 3 ways which in hindsight was overkill. The Hewes does have dash components so I ducted it to each windshield and also a 3rd vent on the floor. It pushes the capability of the d2 as far as air flow so I think I'm gonna dig back into the whole thing and streamline the setup and eliminate the floor vent.
    As far as the factory thru hull exhaust; they are built double-walled I think and thus a bit safer and not quite as hot as the exhaust tubing itself. Maybe not a consideration for mine or your boat but definitely important on a glass & wood boat.
    Check out Quickwater Adventure water taxi/transport services: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Quick...37553606260978

  16. #16

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    I took the Planar heater out of the box/packaging and remeasured and quickly saw I was looking at the wrong end. The outlet is 4". I can run 4" duct to my hot box about 4' away pretty easily then it's 30" up to the dash / defroster. A mistake like that wouldn't insult my intelligence but some of the other mistakes I've made that you don't know about sure puts it in question

  17. #17

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    Well........truth be told, when I installed my Espar, I did it backwards. As in completely ran all the ducting and everything. Imagine my surprise when the vents were sucking in air instead of throwing it out!
    Check out Quickwater Adventure water taxi/transport services: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Quick...37553606260978

  18. #18

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    LOL that's a good one!...but you know... People who don't make mistakes like those probably don't do anything but watch TV!

  19. #19
    Member GAredneck's Avatar
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    You'll be satisfied with the 44D. Bk installed one for me back in Oct and it's really nice, does well even with the temps in the 20's. Stays nice and toasty.

  20. #20

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    Heat is awesome! The coldest we fished I think was about 10 deg, the Espar d2 does okay but not quite toasty at those temps. Looking forward to insulating the boat a bit so that should help big time
    Check out Quickwater Adventure water taxi/transport services: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Quick...37553606260978

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