Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Aluminum Canoe Repair?

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fairbanks, AK
    Posts
    16

    Default Aluminum Canoe Repair?

    Hi all, I managed to get a 17' smoker craft yesterday before it got hauled to the transfer site. Its a nice canoe but it has some big dents (apparently some kids had a party and drove straight into it) and one small, slow leak. I haven't found the hole yet but it takes on water pretty slowly.

    Any tips for finding the hole and products to patch it up? I figured I'd try and bang the big dents out, but I'm more concerned with the leak. Thought about using JB weld or some 5200, but I bet you guys know better than me.

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    2,587

    Default

    There's an old Monark aluminum boat up at the cabin lake with half a dozen holes in the floor, all sealed with silicone. Been that way the 8 years I've been going up there, God knows when or who put it in. It was hard for me to believe at first, but it works. It's white silicone, looks like 5200, but, knowing the owner, I highly doubt he paid the price for 5200, it's probably window caulk from Home Depot. The kids beat that boat to...well you know. Holds just fine.

    As for your dents, that's another story.

  3. #3

    Default

    The old tried and true method to find a leak in an aluminum boat is to fill it with water while it's on the trailer, or put it on saw horses in the case of a canoe and then look for the leak. That's the way the boat shops do it.

    I was building a lift for my canoe in the shop and got the welder stinger too close and burnt a couple 1/4 or so small holes in the aluminum.
    Pathched it with some Duraflux aluminum soldering rod and a propane torch. Did a good job. The Duraflux rod melts at a lower
    temperature than the aluminum so there's no chance of overheating and melting the aluminum. Sanded it down and painted the patched
    area and it's held for years.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fairbanks, AK
    Posts
    16

    Default

    both of these options sound good, i guess it will depend on what the leak looks like once i find it!

    Now...how many trips out to fox spring to fill up a canoe

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,461

    Default

    JB Weld will absolutely do it. Patches fuel tanks as well. It can be sanded to the point that the "hole" will disappear. If you decide to have the dents removed, I'd recommend a good aircraft mechanic. Might be cheaper than a boat repair station, and most likely just as good or better.

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,763

    Default

    do not use """" CAULK """" it will not grab the metal an hold on , you want sealent there is a differance most big box stores have it HOME DEPO, LOWS , SPENARD BUILDERS , an most HARDWEAR STORES ,WALmart , FREEDIES repeat don't use CAULK you even on a big hole want sealent , there is a difference , even on a big hole you can patch it with a tube of sealent an a pice of metal , after saying that welding is the best way, but not the best for cost ,
    [ for small holes the sealent is the best ]

    see you on the river SID

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by greenmachine View Post
    both of these options sound good, i guess it will depend on what the leak looks like once i find it!

    Now...how many trips out to fox spring to fill up a canoe
    Make sure the saw horses or whatever you use are plenty stout if you do it that way. Don't want to hear you got squished.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    950

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by greenmachine View Post
    Hi all, I managed to get a 17' smoker craft yesterday before it got hauled to the transfer site. Its a nice canoe but it has some big dents (apparently some kids had a party and drove straight into it) and one small, slow leak. I haven't found the hole yet but it takes on water pretty slowly.

    Any tips for finding the hole and products to patch it up? I figured I'd try and bang the big dents out, but I'm more concerned with the leak. Thought about using JB weld or some 5200, but I bet you guys know better than me.
    Sounds like you dragged this canoe out of the trash. If true, you really have nothing to loose and repair is easy. We dragged an aluminum canoe out of a log jam. The whole canoe was bent nearly 45 degrees and we repaired it and used it for years.

    To fix the dents, get a hammer. Really. Bang on it until it is about right and call it good.

    For the leaks, I'd use whatever sealant was in the garage already. If it is not leaking so bad that you can't immediately figure out where it is coming from, it isn't leaking that bad. Shoot, we bashed a rock with that canoe we found, popped several rivets out, plugged the holes with twigs and canoed with it for another day and a half.

    I wouldn't sweat it and would just have fun with it.

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fairbanks, AK
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NRick View Post
    Sounds like you dragged this canoe out of the trash. If true, you really have nothing to loose and repair is easy. We dragged an aluminum canoe out of a log jam. The whole canoe was bent nearly 45 degrees and we repaired it and used it for years.

    To fix the dents, get a hammer. Really. Bang on it until it is about right and call it good.

    For the leaks, I'd use whatever sealant was in the garage already. If it is not leaking so bad that you can't immediately figure out where it is coming from, it isn't leaking that bad. Shoot, we bashed a rock with that canoe we found, popped several rivets out, plugged the holes with twigs and canoed with it for another day and a half.

    I wouldn't sweat it and would just have fun with it.
    It wasn't quite in the trash yet...but thats where it was headed. I'm treating it exactly like you say, nothing to lose. It really isn't leaking terribly bad. My plan for the dents was a piece of board and a mini sledge. Theres no way i'm getting it to look nice, so i'm all about function with it. I think it will serve me well.

    Thanks everyone for the advice, see ya out there.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,763

    Default

    you might use one of the dead bow hammers it wil not dent like a metal one , but it should be a large one , good luck
    just remember to use the sealer not the caulk it cost about the same very little differance , an if you use the clear it will
    speak for it's self SID

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    2,587

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sid View Post
    you might use one of the dead bow hammers it wil not dent like a metal one , but it should be a large one , good luck
    just remember to use the sealer not the caulk it cost about the same very little differance , an if you use the clear it will
    speak for it's self SID
    A dead blow hammer will still dent metal, especially if it has a broad, flat face. What a dead blow does well is it ransfers energy from your swing to the target by the shifting weight inside the head.

    If you're looking for dent removal tools, I remember the guys at the body shop I once worked at (I'm NOT a body tech) using things called "dollies." They were pieces of machined steel with different degrees of curvature. You find the curve that matches what you want your finished product to be, and you put the curved side against the metal, then hit the flat side opposite the curve. This way, the force from your hammer, rather than being transferred equally into a flat section of the metal, was transferred into the shape you want. Sort of.

  12. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,763

    Default

    you are correct if you want to spend that kind of money for a one time use, the dead blow don't cost that much an you can use it for other things , what I wanted to bring out is you want to bend the metal an not bang it up more with a meta hammer , you might still have to use the metal hammer to do the job ,
    my 2 CTS SID

  13. #13
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Wrangell
    Posts
    7,599

    Default

    Work it from the outside like we do shotgun barrels for better return of strenght.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

  14. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,763

    Default

    shot gun is exloded out, the canoes are ban , so in most case's , you have to bang it out , not in , after saying that you just do it a little at a time an it work a not break the skin SID

  15. #15
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Wrangell
    Posts
    7,599

    Default

    In truth most shotgun barrels are dented in from banging into rocks and such when leaned against a car and fall.Bulges are a different deal. When pounding from inside if you will use a pile of damp sand under the dent it will help over stressing or giving a bulge on the outside.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •