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Thread: The Yukon Rols!

  1. #1
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    Default The Yukon Rols!

    Im back on the Hudson Bay project, moving it into the shop today and building stands to keep her at a comfortable height to work on. I bought this boat with no rear seat, splash well or gel coat to lessen my work. When finished i'll be driving the only inboard surface drive freighter in the state. The starting point is toughening the hull, there not bad as delivered but I want more! When the glass work is completed the hull will contain 5 gallons of epoxy and a combination of carbon fiber, woven fiberglass and bi-axial cloth. I have a total of 70 yards of fabric and will determine how much of what goes where, as I go along. Once the glass work is done I will begin the outdrive in earnest and when compete (in the spring) everything will get assembled into the hull. Power comes from a 22 hp Honda and for now that's fine. My outdrive will easily handle 100 hp, but that's a project for another day! In an effort to expidite the glass work I removed the center seat today and was surprised at what I found. Totally raw wood and a bunch of rolled up bubble wrap for flotation!!! Not really a big deal to me due to the nature of my build but for anyone with a stock boat, you may want to slather something on that ply before it goes away. My goal is to complete ALL the glass related work in the next couple weeks and this isn't very exciting stuff so don't look for a blow by blow during this phase, please. Once I get to the more technical stuff there will be more. 001.jpgMike

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    Member bobmikk's Avatar
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    First of all....not happy to see that seat bottom....

    Second...that is going to be quite the project...keep a good log going here, with photo sharing...good luck.

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    That is pretty bogus putting uncoated wood with bubble wrap for flotation. When you combine that with the cheap fiberglass that they are using....we need to see someone start competing with these Canucks that uses quality glass/composite with real marine epoxy....hey Mainer....

    Good luck on your project Alasgun. Thanks for the heads up...

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    I opened the bow today and found some more bubble wrap. Then, remembering North 61's dilemma with water in the keel section I drilled each of them and by golly, there was water! After studying the factory lay up, it looks easy enough to allow water intrusion in this area. As I move ahead with the hull toughening, i'll pay close attention and make sure all is sealed well. Mike012.jpg005.jpg

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    Bubble wrap must be pricey....wonder what they were thinking. Maybe you should stop....I am getting nervous.

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    It's O.K, there's nothing else to open up. In my case these complications are easily rectified and not all that difficult to remedy on a stock boat either.

    Mike

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    Today was a big day and the vast majority of the glass is in the hull! 1 course of carbon fiber full length followed by 3 full length courses of 10 oz woven fabric. The sides (inside) got one full course of 12 inch wide 10 oz tape.
    The motor rails were fitted as well and tomorrow I will focus on reinforcing this area and the transom. Quite possibly I can get some resin on that seat bottom and get it back in place too!

    Probably have a whole day faring this thing before either gel coat or epoxy paint. After that ill post a picture or two.

    Mike

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    Since my last post, the seat was put back in place and is now full of foam planks, the bow is now closed back up after getting a good coat of resin and after some i-net work, I decided to just stuff er full of the left over bubble wrap. If my decision turns out to be a bad one, this is easy enough to get to later.

    Then I got a little crazy in the motor log / transom area and have no doubt about the strength now. Some faring was done today and the epoxy paint was purchased to finish it up. I've got a couple pictures, taken during the lay up which ill post once the paint is done.

    As with most things I take on, there always ends up being more complications than I allow for. I guess it's a good thing I enjoy what I'm doing! My goal has been to get the trailer built and the glass work done before snow, then I will have most of the winter to fiddle with the out drive and other systems. I'm right on target so far.

    Mike

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    All the old foam flotation I have taken out of boats has been pretty rotted and when I tried to see if it still worked it water logged fairly quick. I'm not sure that bubble wrap ain't a better option.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    004.jpg011 (2).jpg



    At this point I'd like to back up a bit and explain why this old fool is spending all the time and money to make a perfectly good canoe heavier. It all started with my idea to build an inboard surface drive, suitable for jon's or freighters in the 20 to 75 h.p range. Again, there's nothing wrong with the Go-Devils or Mud Buddy engines but all of them could be more user friendly! My design will allow remote steering, forward, neutral, reverse and hopefully push my freighter into the 15 knt. range, up stream. I've been speculating about this for several years and finally decided to buy a boat and get after it!

    Scott Canoes were great to work with and built the boat to my specification. Knowing i'd be toughening the hull a bit, I had them leave out the gel coat, rear seat and splash well. Those hulls have been doing it for a number of years and are pretty tough as delivered but I can't leave well enough alone. With the addition of several layers of carbon fiber and glass, I now have an expedition grade hull that will be considerably tougher than a jon style, maintain a slippery nature and the ability to be pushed along handily with modest power. I'll get this thing weighed once it comes off the stands but math tells me I added roughly 80 lbs to the original 250 lbs, I can live with that.

    These photos show the motor mount and without the splash well my little Honda fits nice and compact, with a very low center of gravity!


    Mike

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    022.jpg021.jpgToday I finished up the glass work and am now waiting for the paint to dry! Coupled with the recent lamination work I believe it will stay in the shop for a couple weeks with the heat jacked up a bit.

    As I mentioned previously, this part isn't very exciting but with this phase complete I'll be able to move to the outdrive next. Once that's done I will know how I want to steer the thing and what the console needs to look like etc, etc. When the machining begins Ill be sure to post some pictures.

    In a couple days I will take a core sample when I reopen the drain hole. I'll post a photo of that slug so you can see the build up at the motor mount. I'm guessing right at 1/2 inch and when you add that to the original hull thickness of .200 you begin to understand how much beef was added!

    Mike

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    Curious why you opened the bow....just because you could?

    For me, I had the canoe shipped from Scott to Calgary ($800), you must have had a steep shipping bill. Did you have the canoe shipped to AK direct, thereby avoiding becoming an importer and dealing with customs and DMV forms.

    That will be some canoe....look forward to more photos.

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    When you bring one of these boats to Alaska you double the boats price due to shipping! Mine came to Whitehorse via commercial carrier then here to the house by way of a friend.

    I paid roughly $300 in VAT that I'm told is refundable however if its only gonna cost me $300 to NOT deal with a government agency, I'm happy. DMV is yet to happen and I'll have both the boat and trailer in for an inspection for a trailer title and boat numbers, probably in the spring.

    Mike

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    Wink

    004 (2).jpg001 (3).jpg

    It's been a good time off and except for some machine work on the prop there won't be anything else to talk about for a bit, but I did want to fill in a couple blanks before wrapping up!

    An internet search showed me how to weigh something 21 ft long with a bathroom scale? Setting it just like the diagram and paying close attention to the co-sine of the arithmeack, my scale showed 160lbs and by doubling this figure I get the unbelievable amount of 320 lbs. Common sense tells me to not put much stock in this method, however I would be tickled to discovery it is accurate! I guess it is sorta close to my guestimation which was based on weighing the components, another highly unreliable method.

    I bored the drain hole out, saving the core for show and tell and have included a photo. As you can see its 1 inch thick and with another 3/16th of original hull, I believe my motor mount area will be fine. Looking at the photo you see a layer of carbon on bottom followed by 8 layers of glass then 1 piece of core-mat and another 3 layers of glass, then another piece of core-mat followed by 8 more layers of glass and 5 layers of carbon fiber! This section is roughly 14 inches long and 30 inches wide tapering up the sides and up onto the transom to less and less reinforcement.
    Deduct those two layers of core-mat and the total glass applied is right at 1/2 inch.

    Along the way, me and one of the grandsons had time to rough in this push / paddle, 8 ft long and 3.5lbs. Once I decide on a handle style we'll complete it.

    If you let it, this canoe stuff turns into work!
    Mike

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    image.jpg


    Not caring for the factory drain arrangement, I built a replacement. This one will get "Marine Tex'd" in place shortly. The socket and plug fit flush to the bottom of the boat, the extra length pipe plug is water tight even when only hand tightened and accessible from inside the boat.

    The plug is Silicon Bronze and the socket is Inconel 625.

    Mike

  16. #16
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    That for sure is a plug
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    One of the weaknesses in the HB is the drain plug.....soft nylon threads. Makes me nervous to remove the plug and need to hose out the threads well each time I replace the plug. Additionally, they added a spare plug that is mounted on a bolt sticking up pretty high and I have to add padding so the gas tank does not get impailed.

    Would like to change that out to one like you have posted here....but not sure how to do that.

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    I wouldn't mind helping you with that plug replacement project. This is very simple stuff consuming less than an hour of machine time and some left over materials.

    If its something your serious about P.M me and we'll not tie up this thread with too many rabbit trails!

    Mike

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    While perusing a number of canoe sites, I came to the conclusion that a little style is never a bad thing. To that end, I've decided to deck the bow. Your looking at a piece of steam bent walnut, that will terminate the deck 18 inches back from the bow. There's some Cherry veneer on the way for a skin once everything is assembled.

    Next week I'll be doing splash rails and thwarts so this is a good time to add it in and get all the varnish work behind me at one time.

    Mike

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    Default A little progress

    005 (3).jpg007 (2).jpg



    Starting with a solid piece of 4 inch aluminum, I set up the mill and whittled for a couple days. A 5/8 offset was factored in which gives me a solid base to weld my skeg to.
    At this point it may look "thick" and it is but until some of the other pieces come together, I don't want to be too exuberant! Boring for weight reduction is easily done.
    My articulating ball (steering) will fasten on the big end, and at that point I can formalize the drive shaft length. This will be the next step.
    Check out the double C.V! Once welded to that aircraft tube I will have the heart of my drive. Notice the angle, my vendor assures me I can run it to 55 deg, which is about 15 more than ill ever need and a bunch more than a standard mud motor provides.

    Its nice to finally be moving on the out drive. Up until this point it's just been an idea in my head but now that there's something to relate to, I can pick up the pace a bit. Invent as you go is something i'm pretty fair at but there's always a good bit of head scratching along the way and i'm too lazy to make drawings.

    The remainder of the week is spoken for so there probably wont be much till I return next.
    Mike

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