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Thread: Decoy rigging question?

  1. #1
    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Default Decoy rigging question?

    So last year I made up some texas rigs for some of my Decoys. It worked OK I guess.
    This year I plan to get rid of the rest of my strap weights and convert the rest to J weights. This is so I can use some of them in deeper water if need be.
    I bought the DO-IT mold for the weights and ordered the rest of the components from various online sources. I am going to try black surgical tubing and black shock(bungee) cord and see which I think will work best. I bought the Nylon rings and hog rings as well as the hog ring pliers.
    I may leave a long tag end to connect to the weights in case the rubber fails. Any other tips for rigging this way?
    I am mostly going to make them 4oz but will make some 6oz or maybe 8oz for the few Goose decoys I have.
    Anybody else use J weights on their decoys? Any negatives to this rigging style?
    Does it work well? Also do they hold well if I use them in the river?
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    I just use what laying around from sparkplugs to nuts and bolts
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amigo Will View Post
    I just use what laying around from sparkplugs to nuts and bolts
    I think that would give me too many tangles in the decoy bag doing that.
    With the J weights I can secure the lines and anchors without scratching the decoys so bad like you sometimes have happen when you wrap the strap weights around the decoy necks.
    We have tried wrapping the strap weight around the keel but it often falls off and tangles anyway.
    So I bought the mold and can make the weights fairly cheap with the lead I have at home. A few more bucks for the bungee,hog rings etc. and I can do alll my decoys and some for friends.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    I only use J weights and love them. The only issue I have is that they don't fit very well on my GHG hotbuy mallard decoys because they purposefully skimp on the distance between the bottom of the decoy and the keel to save plastic, thus keeping the cost down. I suppose it's not the weights fault I'm cheap, lol!

    This year I'm going to rig half my mallard decoys to run on a gang line so they are faster to move as the tide rises/falls. I spend WAY too much time in the decoys reacting to the tide where I hunt.

    Erich
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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    I got about 6 dozen weights made and rigged. I just need to attach them to the decoy's.
    I decided the shock cord was the best especially when you consider that if the rubber breaks you still have the woven outer sheath to hold things together. The last thing I need is a decoy that drifts off because the rubber broke or losing weights in the mud.
    Total cost for 6 dozen weights rigged up was ~$35 not including the mold. Of course the mold doesn't really wear out so I can use it for years.
    I made mostly 4 oz but also a few 6 oz for the 8 goose decoys I have.
    They came out a bit shiny using Wheel weight lead so I sprayed them with some dip it rubber spray from a rattle can. I bought a case of that a few years ago for $1 a can so that was also cheap. I know they will eventually turn a dull gray from oxidation if left bare but I figured it was an easy thing to do.
    Overall I think they will work great. I tried one on a decoy and it fit perfect. The center notch seemed to hold well on it too.
    I made them ten inches long then folded the ends over with the rings and crimped them closed with hog rings.
    I used 5/16 shock cord with 3/8" hog rings on the line then used 1/2" hog rings to connect the shock cords to the weights.
    I am going to use swivels with large snaps on my decoy lines so I can remove the shock cords at the end of duck season. Hopefully that will make the shock cords last longer.

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    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

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    I've got a bunch of lead from years past rigs, any idea where I can find a mold locally or do I have to look online?

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    Member click's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2OFwlr View Post
    I've got a bunch of lead from years past rigs, any idea where I can find a mold locally or do I have to look online?
    Im not positive but if memory serves me right one of the guys on this forum has the mold your looking for. you could probably work something out.

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    eBay.......

  9. #9
    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2OFwlr View Post
    I've got a bunch of lead from years past rigs, any idea where I can find a mold locally or do I have to look online?
    You have to buy this mold online. Do not buy from do-it as there are much cheaper places to get it. Same thing with the other stuff to make this work.
    I have the mold and all the stuff to make these. I could make them for you including the shock cord with plastic rings just like in my picture.
    I could even use your lead and it would cost less. If you PM me we could work out a deal.
    I wouldn't be able to get to them until mid September at the earliest though.
    The mold I have makes 4oz,6oz,and 8oz so if you needed some bigger ones for goose or swan decoys I could make those too.
    Just to give you an idea of pricing the mold for these will run you ~$60+ shipping and them you have to buy the shock cord, plastic rings, hog ring pliers and hog rings etc. Plus the lead pot and ladle if you don't have them.
    I like the do-it mold as it makes a nice weight that has the size marked and has the center notch to keep them secured better on the decoys.
    I have seen wood molds on Ebay made with a router. They are just a J shape cut out of a piece of hardwood secured to a base with a bolt screwed in to make the eyelet hole. You would probably get a few dozen out of a wood mold before it is used up.
    If you have access to a router you could try and make your own.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    Sponsor Duckhunter01's Avatar
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    Who's got about 4-6 dozen Texas rigged lines for sale?? Shoot me a pm. No lead to melt, no mold, and decided if I can get them at a reasonable rate.. why not rig most like this and up for something new.. If you have some to sell or can make some.. Let me know via PM or text me at 830-0718.. Thanks guys. See you in the marsh!

    looking for at least 4-5ft long with loop at one end for d-ring.
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  11. #11
    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duckhunter01 View Post
    Who's got about 4-6 dozen Texas rigged lines for sale?? Shoot me a pm. No lead to melt, no mold, and decided if I can get them at a reasonable rate.. why not rig most like this and up for something new.. If you have some to sell or can make some.. Let me know via PM or text me at 830-0718.. Thanks guys. See you in the marsh!

    looking for at least 4-5ft long with loop at one end for d-ring.
    Wish I had known a couple of weeks ago as I could have made these when I was making weights for another forum member last week.
    Too bad I don't have time now.
    What kind are you looking for? the ones with monofilament or the black plastic cord?
    If you don't find some by October send me a PM and maybe we can work something out as I have plenty of lead and molds.
    I can get the other parts easy enough too.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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