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Thread: AK Saltwater Flies

  1. #1

    Default AK Saltwater Flies

    Anyone have any good Rockfish, Lingcod, or Saltwater Salmon Fly patterns?
    Piscor Ergo Sum

  2. #2

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    My go-to are Clausers and Deceivers. For close work around kelp, rocks or bottom I tie my Deceivers with weedless mono loops. Best colors are chartreuse/white or florescent green/white for overcast days or deep work, blue/white for sunny days.

  3. #3
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    I have done well with red/white deciever.

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the Input fellas. I saw a video on line of a guy down in Oregon tying these Super Closers with Saltwater Yak hair, XXl Dumbbell eyes, and 4/0 Circle Hooks. What are you guys using for hooks? Just regular J-Hooks, Semi-Circle, or Full Circle hooks?
    Piscor Ergo Sum

  5. #5

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    I hate circles on flies, especially the long shanks like Mustads. You just tear hell out of the fish getting them out.

    My picks for both Clausers and Deceivers are Owner Aki's and SSW Straight Eye Cutting Points. Not cheap, but really easy to set. When they get hold of a fish, the fish stays got.

    Careful about going as big as 4/0. I bet you can't set the hook past the barb on a rod any lighter than a 10-WT and that's marginal. Other thing, yak is fine, but no need to go longer than about 6" on Deceivers and about 4" on Clausers. I tend to use large saltwater bucktails or some of the synthetics, while saving my yak for flies that need to be long.

  6. #6

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    Brownbear, Thanks for the info! I am definitely an Owner user for sure! Love their hooks and definitely will be picking some larger hooks up here when I get home to tie on. If not 4/0, then like 2/0? Also can anyone explain to me the difference between saltwater Yak or Bucktail and regular Yak or Bucktail? Is there a special coating on it or something?
    Piscor Ergo Sum

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Franken Fish View Post
    Brownbear, Thanks for the info! I am definitely an Owner user for sure! Love their hooks and definitely will be picking some larger hooks up here when I get home to tie on. If not 4/0, then like 2/0? Also can anyone explain to me the difference between saltwater Yak or Bucktail and regular Yak or Bucktail? Is there a special coating on it or something?
    Going backwards, the only difference I know between saltwater and regular is size- If the folks selling are doing their job. The saltwater version is longer for bigger flies. I just got half a dozen saltwater bucktails, all with hair 6" long. But some sources I think only put the tag on them with no sort for the longest.

    I pick my hooks based on the size of rod, approximately. For rods less than 10WT I seldom go over 2/0 and 1/0 is better. Funny thing (but less odd when you think about it a moment), you can go bigger on smaller rods if you pinch the barbs and perhaps start scaling back on the size of hook wire. I have no qualms about 3/0 Aki's on a 8WT with the barbs pinched, but on fish with harder mouths I've had them fail to penetrate past the barb with 10WTs. I'm pinching barbs on more and more flies for that reason, but still making adjustments in wire size trying to figure out which models are best as I run up and down the scale of rod sizes. Like you, I find that most of the time Owners are worth the price difference.

  8. #8

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    Awesome info Brownbear! Thank You! I had Mike at Mossys make me a line a couple months back for LingCod/ Rockfish based off the Calico Syndicate guys down in SoCals formula. Just getting around to using it here next weekend. I will be using a 830grain line on a 10wt Sage RPLXi-3 with a Lamson Litespeed 4. Pretty pumped and have been tying up a bunch of flies to try out on my off shift here at work. Thanks again for all the help.
    Piscor Ergo Sum

  9. #9

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    Keep us posted on that line. Didn't know Mike did such things, but pleased to learn it and have full faith in his abilities. I've been using Rio Leviathans. You're likely to find that 830 grains is really tough to cast with a 10WT, but our styles may differ. I'm pretty much maxed out with 600 grains on a 14WT. DUCK AND CHUCK for sure!

    If you haven't tried it on the water yet, learn the "vertical roll cast." Don't know what else to call it, but here's what goes on. When you get the head up to the rod tip the line is going to be hanging more or less straight down. Raise your rod tip really fast and make something like a roll cast out across the water. You're likely to have to do it a couple of times to get the head up on top and laid out straight across the surface. Then quick pick up the head for a single back cast and shoot. If you can't manage it with about three "rolls" using that 10WT, try pulling a little of the head into the guides before trying it after the next cast. You'll quickly learn just how much head you need pulled into the guides before you can get the line laid out on the surface in a couple of rolls. If your casting skills are there, when you're pulling some of the head into the guides before rolling, learn to "shoot" that part out of the guides on the last roll so the whole head is laying on the surface with the last roll. You really need to do that in order to make your next cast with a single back cast. Multiple back casts with really heavy lines are unhealthy on boats with overhead rigging and other people.

    That rolling routine beats the holy heck out of stripping the whole head up into your guides each cast, and having to work it back out through the guides again before the next cast.

    Hope that's all making sense.

    BTW- What's all the fluff about being able to cast these things rather than simply feeding them out through the guides and jigging? If you're worried about records, check the IGFA rules on sinking lines. Essentially, feeding line through the guides like that isn't allowed. You can only fish the length of line you can cast, and IIRC there's even a depth limit of 120'. Been a while since I looked at their rules, but that's what I recall. Lotta guys were "fly fishing" with 3-4oz flies (AKA jigs) on fly rods, feeding them out through the guides and calling it fly fishing. The IGFA wanted to end that and get back to actual fly fishing. If you can't cast it, you can't claim a record.

  10. #10

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    Brownbear, Yeah man I have casted it a little bit. Double Haul and shoot! I also use a mending basket. As for the line check out http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SL8mwdVyYTw&feature=plpp. If the link doesn't work YouTube Calico Syndicate. There are a bunch of videos on the rods they use, how to build the lines, flies, casting, etc. Mike welded the sections together using the Airflo Welding Machine instead of using a hollow core braided material. The whole idea is to make a shoot able line to be able to cast 80-120ft. I am definitely interested in trying your Roll Cast Technique. I will keep you posted on how I do next weekend. Thanks again for the info.
    Piscor Ergo Sum

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Franken Fish View Post
    Mike welded the sections together using the Airflo Welding Machine instead of using a hollow core braided material.
    The best kind of news! I hate that hollow core stuff, whether for splices or loops.

  12. #12
    Member Kodiakfly's Avatar
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    For rockfish and salmon I've done really well on a pretty basic baitfish pattern. Either yak (which I love) or EP fibers (which I just kinda like). I tie them weighted and unweighted, they're quick to tie and hold up to multiple fish well. I also like Leviathan lines. I use a 400 or 500 on a 10 and it gets down well if you work with the tide and wind, and work boat control with a trolling motor if need be. I've done best with a two-tone pattern, but have some fish on the all-white or all-black. The green over white fly is after about 25 rock fish and still going strong in one piece.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails white on white.jpg   thrashed.jpg  

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    Toward the end of the year, I started messing more with hackled flies for the hookset. Rockfish gums hang in hair and I missed some hook ups. But with rockfish numbers being as they are, I still managed limits, but with lost fish along with way. Hook up ratio is better for me with hackle, though I still do use hair. Here's some hackled flies and some topwater I'll be using ASAP next year. Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #14
    Member Kodiakfly's Avatar
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    I can only load two pics per post.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bait lg3.jpg   bait lg4.jpg  

  15. #15

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    Almost embarrassed to post this effort, but it has been amazingly productive. It's my "no vise" sand lance imitation So far its managed a several kings trolling and the saltwater species seem to eat it up. Planning on trying a smaller version for freshwater smolt imitations that I can cast. I have never been able to create "beautiful" flies, but every now and then I seem to find a jig or simple pattern that produces fish. I have tied, but haven't tested the articulated versions yet.

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  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kardinal_84 View Post
    Almost embarrassed to post this effort, but it has been amazingly productive. It's my "no vise" sand lance imitation So far its managed a several kings trolling and the saltwater species seem to eat it up. Planning on trying a smaller version for freshwater smolt imitations that I can cast. I have never been able to create "beautiful" flies, but every now and then I seem to find a jig or simple pattern that produces fish. I have tied, but haven't tested the articulated versions yet.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    larger pic of the second pic...
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  17. #17
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    You can dip that woven mylar into epoxy to make it bomb proof. I use the same material for fry & smolt patterns and finish the body off with epoxy.
    Your bait stinks and your boat is ugly

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by FishGod View Post
    You can dip that woven mylar into epoxy to make it bomb proof. I use the same material for fry & smolt patterns and finish the body off with epoxy.
    That is a GREAT idea. That was my only issue with these is the pollock would just tear them up after the tenth fish or so. And when you are catching 50 or more pollock a day, I switched over to the plastic hoochies which lasted twice as long. Thanks!!!!!

  19. #19
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    I'd also suggest Clear Cure Goo. It's a UV activated one-part material that you can set up instantly and not have to worry about mixing large quantities or have it run on you like epoxy. You can get it online or at a lot of fly shops.

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodiakfly View Post
    I'd also suggest Clear Cure Goo.
    Thick apps take forever to dry completely. They'll stay tacky on the surface no matter how much UV light you hit them with. Pretty frustrating until you learn the simple "fix": After treating them the standard time with your portable UV light, lay them out in the sun for a few hours. Done.

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