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Thread: 2010 JetCraft XS Heater Issue

  1. #1

    Default 2010 JetCraft XS Heater Issue

    I performed what I thought as being a good winterization of my boat before winter (I blew out my system with air then ran antifreeze through it). But What I did not take into consideration was the heater system. Basically the water used to cool the engine is routed through a supply and return hose to a small radiator under the console. Under the radiator a blower is mounted and that blows the air via two flex hose to two vents above and on the side of my console. When I went to run my boat last week for the first time I had an issue. As I throttled up, water started coming from under my console. More throttle, more water. So I went back to the launch and put the boat up on my trailer and starting to look around.

    What I think happened is I didn't get all of the water out of the radiator and one of two things occurred, A) the radiator froze and cracked or B) The one or both of the fittings the supply and return hose connect to cracked or C) All of the above. What concerns me is come hunting season, as temperature do get below freezing, this happens again but this time I'm out in the sticks. A lot of water moves through those hoses.

    So my questions is should I just replace the radiator and fittings (if so how much does a new heater radiator cost) and be more diligent at winterizing. Or what I'm thinking I should do, is saying screw the heater and connecting the supply and return hose via a double male fitting and hose clamps. I don't use the heater any way but water goes through the system regardless. My idea of connecting the supply and return seems to make sense to me as the hose are rubber and seem like would be easy to clear as gravity does most of the work, I can just help it by blowing it down and running glycol through.

    Any help or additional ideas are appreciated

  2. #2
    Member DanielApplin's Avatar
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    Same problem I had. I garuntee the copper is broke in the heater coils where it froze. When I took mine out the bottom coil is below the drain line so it seemed Impossible to get all the water out with out blowing through it and ended up cracking the copper. I just took it out and connected the supply and return hose and will never look back. Talk to the boat shop guys and I bet they will tell you to do the same. I think the new heater core is around 100 bucks if you want to replace it.
    -Dan

  3. #3

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    If you are running a closed system you should be running a mixture of antifreeze and water just like in your truck. There is no need to drain down a closed system if you have antifreeze in it you can use the boat as long as there is water to run the boat.But you will always need to drain down any fresh water system at freezing temps.

  4. #4
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    If it is a fresh water system it seems like it would be smart to dump some rv winterizing antifreeze into the lines to keep the residual water from freezing.

  5. #5

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    I don't think that they would put a heater in a fresh water system as it would never get real warm?

  6. #6
    Member DanielApplin's Avatar
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    It is a fresh water system in that boat not antifreeze

  7. #7
    Member DanielApplin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuJon View Post
    If it is a fresh water system it seems like it would be smart to dump some rv winterizing antifreeze into the lines to keep the residual water from freezing.
    I agree but the whole motor is suppose self drain and the heater core has two caps on both lines that are to be removed to drain the coils but I found that water will still sit in the lower part of the heater core since the hose is above the lowest coil.

  8. #8
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Is the mounting position per factory spec? Most boat manufacturers "rig" the boats out by installing vendor components in ways that fit their boat design. I would track down the heater manufacturer and see what position the core is supposed to be mounted in. If it didn't meet their spec then I would be talking to my boat builder or dealer.

  9. #9
    Member c-bolt's Avatar
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    Its a XS, sportjet right? The heaters in sportjet boats rarely work well considering they are fresh water...

    If you don't use it, ditch the heater and hoses and just bypass the whole thing. Nothing but problems from what I have heard.
    09 River Wild, 3 stages, LS power

  10. #10
    Member HCL's Avatar
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    I had the same problem last spring, if you pull the heater core out you will find one of the bottom copper loops split. Tap the split closed the best you can and solder it or slober some JB weld on it and let it dry good before you put it back in. A Radiator shop could solder it too. Mine has held up well with JB weld and alot cheaper than new core. When you put it away for winter, blow air through the lines from the low point drain on the heater hoses and that will get that water out.
    As for a fresh water heater, they do put out a lot of heat, "under power", the more throttle, the more heat. Pretty dang nice to keep the window defrosed and the chill out and with the top up it will run you out.

  11. #11

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    Yes it's a sportjet, fresh water system. I did blow air through the drain hose then pumped glycol through the system. It does pump out good heat when running at speed. I'm going with my original plan and what was recommend here. I'm bypassing the heater, connecting the supply to the return and will be done with it. I have a full canopy so if I need some heat I'll break out the little buddy heaters.

    Thanks for the feedback. I'm still going to buy a new heater core as I plan on selling the boat in a month. I'm getting a divorce unfortunately and need the money. I bought the boat brand new last Feb. from AMDS. Only 25 hours on it so far. I'm going to go fishing one last time when I get back from the slope. So if anyone is looking I'm asking what I still owe on it $32,000. New custom canopy, factory 4 wheeler racks that are removable, Posi Nozzle from EX Welding, I added two 24" jetcraft box seats behind the main two seats. Lots of other extras. I'll post pictures when I do the "for sale post".

    Thanks again for the help.

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