This here is a Frontiersman canoe, they were built in BC, and the company went out of business a very long time ago, might have been 1978-79. If you go from the nose cap to the end of the transom, it's an 18 ft. canoe. but from inside of transom to the actual bow.....it's 17 ft 8 in. At the widest point of the canoe, it has a depth of 15.5". Judging by the Hull ID number, it was built in 1978. The lay-up appears to be 18oz woven roving, polyester resin, and foam hull strengtheners glassed in with chopped strand mat tape. It was originally a 70's "pickle-green" colored gel coat finish that had faded to a hideous mint-green. The transom was rotten, and flotation pod was glassed right up to the transom.
With the hull ID number on the bottom of the wine glass transom, I didn't want to loose that historically significant portion of the canoe, so I cut half of the flotation pod out, along with the inside fiberglass layer that glassed in the old plywood transom board. I then pulled out the old foam, filled what was left with new foam, and fiberglassed in a new transom board.
The yoke was an unsightly molded fiberglass deal, this was cut out and used to trace a hardwood replacement. The seats were 60 degree beveled hardwood planks, so those were also cut the same. A little bit of hunter green oil-based paint, black oil-based paint for the gunwales, u-bolts for lining the canoe, and a transom lift built, giving it 4 inches extra height.
This cheap canoe project took about 2 days. Such a nice old canoe doesn't deserve to get abused, but rather, paddled, and motored in deeper waters. It will be a great fly-fishing/duck hunting kind of canoe, beamy enough for shootin from the canoe, stand-up paddling, or standing while fly fishing. Surface drives won't work well with the stern shape. About the ideal motor for this rig, is a 9.9 two-stroke. I just picked up a half round removal bit for the router, I may run a strip of UHMW across the entire keel all the way up the bow, running all the way to the bottom of the transom board. With that router bit, I can hollow out one side of the strip of UHMW so that it fits skin-tight onto the round keel. I could potentially run aluminum tubing in the keel as a backer for the bolts. The keel empty on the inside....a piece of 3/4" in. aluminum tubing would fit right in there.
As I portage it, the weight feels right around 120-130 lbs.