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Thread: Stainless steel galling

  1. #1

    Default Stainless steel galling

    When I got my project and started removing all the old junk I found that every stainless bolt had to be ground off and the ones I couldn't get to with a grinder had to be drilled drilled out...such fun! I've used a lot of stainless on the rebuild but have generously applied dielectric grease to all the threads. I was wondering how long it takes for stainless to gall if untreated and also if my little grease job is adequate protection against galling?

  2. #2
    Member alaskabliss's Avatar
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    Stainless will Gall right out of the package. There is galling and there is corrosion. Sometimes corrosion helps it to gall. I would use anti-seize instead of grease.
    Stainless likes to gall if it gets hot, like if you use an impact gun on a stainless nut and bolt. Always remove stainless fastners way slower then you would standard carbon steel.
    Ignorance is not Bliss, it's insanity

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    Member cormit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garyak View Post
    When I got my project and started removing all the old junk I found that every stainless bolt had to be ground off and the ones I couldn't get to with a grinder had to be drilled drilled out...such fun! I've used a lot of stainless on the rebuild but have generously applied dielectric grease to all the threads. I was wondering how long it takes for stainless to gall if untreated and also if my little grease job is adequate protection against galling?

    That's one of the unfortunate characteristics of stainless fasteners. Once it starts to gall ..... it's hard to save the fastener. alaskabliss is right ..... best to use plenty of 'never seize' ....... silver color is what you want .... made for stainless and aluminum ..... I would avoid stuff with copper content. I've put a lot of aluminum boat decks on over aluminum framing ..... by drilling , taping .... 1/4" or 5/16" and installing countersunk SS machine screws with plenty of never seize. Even after a lot of years ..... the fasteners can usually be removed for below deck repairs ..... and refastened with the same screws. Not sure if that dielectric grease will do the trick or not.

  4. #4

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    Try Tef-Gel. Best stuff I've ever seen, but it ain't cheap. Hughescraft recommended it to eliminate paint lifting around holes, but it's equally good to stop the stainless nonsense.

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    I've heard good things about Tef-Gel too but haven't been able to find it. Where can I get it in Anchorage?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fish Witch View Post
    I've heard good things about Tef-Gel too but haven't been able to find it. Where can I get it in Anchorage?
    Check with Dewey's as a guess, since they deal Hewescraft, who recommended it to me in the first place. Our local harware/marine supply stocks the small tubes. One of those will go a looong ways treating only nut, bolts, and holes.

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    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=tef+gel
    I found it on Ebay. It is expensive.
    I use Never sieze on some work.
    Sometimes I use Amsoil's HD Metal Proterant.

  8. #8

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    Hewescraft also recommends ECK. Never tried it, but it's not cheap either.

  9. #9
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    What does the copper anti-sieze do bad? That is what I have been using...bottle is almost gone. I mostly use it on lug nuts and such.

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    Member cormit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullelkklr View Post
    What does the copper anti-sieze do bad? That is what I have been using...bottle is almost gone. I mostly use it on lug nuts and such.
    Only bad when using it on fasteners or anything attaching to your aluminum boat. Copper is a strong element of dissimilar metal corrosion. Should be fine on your lug nuts.

  11. #11
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
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    Hey guys i was looking into becoming a dealer for this stuff, its a heavy weight grease that they have been using in Cummins aftercooler cores and end caps, supposed to be able to just slide the cores out after 3 years in saltwater ?? I got a few small sample tubes here at the potbarn if any body wants a little dash of it to try come and get it. It is supposed to be very good for putting stainless bolts to aluminum and it not welding itself together. I've been using it on the bolts when i assemble the Electra Dynes and for anything i'm bolting or taking apart on the boat. Check out the picture and the website is www.alco-metalube.com If anyone is interested in a group buy let me know and i'll see what i can do.

    Alaska Shrimp Pots

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    If you had problems with two or three SS bolts I would think your problem was not using the proper anti-seize. With having problems with all of them I wonder if there is more to it than just using dielectric grease. Just to be safe you might look into other problems that can cause SS to gall. I know I would hate to have to replace everything because I miss something.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacGyver View Post
    If you had problems with two or three SS bolts I would think your problem was not using the proper anti-seize. With having problems with all of them I wonder if there is more to it than just using dielectric grease. Just to be safe you might look into other problems that can cause SS to gall. I know I would hate to have to replace everything because I miss something.
    MacGyver, I'm assuming you are referring to post #1 and I should have been more clear from the start. I have no clue how many years my project sat exposed and unused including no maintenance before I got it. It is a fiberglass/wood core boat. The kicker bracket was attached with ss bolts/nuts and they were galled into a single unit as well as the bolts to the bracket. Even the ss machine screws/nuts attaching rod holders and other through bolt situations throughout the boat were similarly galled. I doubt any of these were treated with anything during their original installation. As I have re-installed things, I've added the dielectric grease to threads where anti seize would have been the better choice. I plan to back out and inspect all of these connections at the end of each season..there's not that many and it shouldn't take long. Could be that the original hardware was cranked down so tight that it instantly galled. I install stuff with flat washers and a lock washer and just snug things up to the point I doubt they will become loose in normal operations. I appreciate everyone's contributions on the matter!

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