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Thread: Hewes MLC cabin Espar install

  1. #1

    Default Hewes MLC cabin Espar install

    espar fuel tank locker.JPGespar tank fill2.JPGWhen I lengthen the boat I put a locker in the side for an Espar fuel tank. Here it is with the tank and how I'll fill it for this year.

  2. #2

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    fuel pump2.JPGespar mount.JPGThis shows the position of the fuel pump behind the tank and the mount for the heater. I placed the heater in the space between the rear dinette seat and the side.

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    ducts.JPGduct3.JPGThis shows the heater, most the duct work, the exhaust, the drain and the combustion air intake, the duct going into the cuddy with the exhaust behind it. The combustion air intake comes from the rear deck thru the head. The drain goes into the head which is part of the self bailing deck. There is a duct going to the head, under the table. to the cuddy and one to a defroster bar just below the front windows in the cabin. I know the "Y" going to the head is facing the wrong direction. When your 250 miles from the store you use what you have. I'll probably replace it with a "T" at some point. I put the heat sleeve on the exhaust and had an extra piece of duct so slid it over the exhaust pipe. My partner has cold feet so the duct under the table is aimed at where she usually sits.

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    defroster duct2.JPGdefroster duct.JPGHere is the cuddy hot air grill and the duct going up to the defroster bar.

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    defroster bar3.JPGdefroster bar2.JPGThis is the defroster bar. It is a tube with a lot of holes drilled to blow air onto the front windows.There is a fan above to help air circulation. This is an experiment. I'll let you know how it works. It's almost ready to fire up maybe tomorrow. I just got 8" of snow and spent day plowing, Will this winter never end? I had already pretty much finished shrimping by this time last year. Maybe next week?

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    new window.JPGI put an opening window in the door. Air circulation was a problem at times, especially while sitting on the hook and cooking.

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    While I'm at it, I'll post a pic of the new position for the davit. When I lengthened the boat I left it where it was, not sure where I wanted it. After using it for a season, I put it back in a position close to where It was before adding 30". Frees up a lot of deck space for fishing. Pulling pots will still be easy as well as other things.Lobo Hidey4.jpgThis was last year.new davit.jpg the new position. Last year it was mounted to the inside edge of the gunnel, now it run thru the center of the gunnel.

  8. #8
    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Looks good! I have heard of other people utilizing a defroster bar similar to what you are doing with good results. Time to go and get some shrimp.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  9. #9
    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    Wow. That's a great looking install. I love that windshield bar you made. I hope that really works. Thanks for the photos.


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  10. #10
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Nice install all the way around, good looking stretched Hewie too.......!
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

  11. #11
    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Appreciate you posting this, I have an Espar install to do in three weeks.
    I was thinking the same idea on a fuel tank. Glad to see it works.
    BK

  12. #12

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    Image 2.jpgImage 5.jpgThese pictures show the exhaust part of the install

  13. #13

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    Image 7.jpgImage 10.jpgThis shows the shield I put over the exhaust and duct to the cuddy, and tee shirt weather in the cabin. Yes Espar heaters are great

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    new davit position.JPGnew davit position2.JPGThese show the inside detail of the new davit position running through the gunnel instead of attached to the inside edge

  15. #15
    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Nice work Yanert.
    What did you use for your hard line on the heater tubing. Looks like you have some PVC plumbed in to carry the hot air till it mates up with the usual flex hose?
    BK

  16. #16

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    BKMail

    There is a short section of flex duct before I had to take off for the head duct. I doesn't show in the pictures but there is heat shield material 1/2" thick between all the combustable surfaces and the ducts. All the duct material came from Advanced Diesel in Anchorage, so nothing out of the ordinary.

  17. #17
    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Yanert,
    Appreciate it.
    How did you get the backing nuts for your fuel lines on the inside of the diesel jug?
    Thanks,
    BK

  18. #18

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    BKmail

    I took a piece of bare 12ga copper wire and wrapped it tightly around the backing nut, then bent the wire so I could fish it through the opening and line it up with the new holes I drilled. As it tightened the copper wire came free. It isn't as tight as I would like it but tightened up pretty nice. I sealed the out side with 5400 just in case. The second hole is for a vent, an old drain valve from a fuel tank. It works great. Heater holds at a steady temp, after the first cycle. I have the controller set at 66 and it holds at 68, I can deal with this.

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