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Thread: Finished Rust bluing project

  1. #1
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    Default Finished Rust bluing project

    Guess this is the place to show some amatuer skill at rust bluing. I tire of paying for this and that and human curiosity as it is bested me. I had hand polished the metals and used both Simple Green Concentrate and Acetone for cleaner/degreaser. I used 320 grit rolls only. The carding wheel bought out of Brownells and had Alaska Tool in Fbks. make me up a stainless steel pot.....4"w x 6" deep x 3' long for a mere 160 bucks. Had to attach the carding wheel to a Milwaukee 1/2" variable drill via some washers/nuts and a bolt. This process of applying solution/boiling with melted snow and carding was 5 times for finish. A hair dryer was used to blow of blotches of water to prevent any staining......the end result was this.Kays finished product 004.jpg

    I suppose if this was to mean anything is that "anyone" can do this given the precautions and the patience along with time to get the finish they desire.

  2. #2
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    Looks Mighty Fine there

    tho some of your terminology lost me...."carding wheel," and stuff like that
    tell us more, if you have the time,...

    again, your finished product, certainly doesn't speak, just "anyone did this,.." but is pretty pro looking to me
    Well Done
    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    the "carding wheel" is a must in order to card the black oxide off of the metal once you're done boiling, it gently takes this oxide off without taking off the bluing. I degreased that prior to use as well. I used Pilkington Rust Bluing and I cannot disclose how I got it to bush Ak.....along with another product I soon will use on a Chilean Mauser of mine called Gun Goddess. I did 2 Remington 700's in the last 10 days to get the hang of this application and found it to be fairly easy to use. It is imperative to take the metal to white and degrease and never touch the metal with hands, I have been using vinyl gloves that are cheap and easy to get to apply and handle. I had no real place but my wifes propane stove and in her kitchen and my computer/reloading desks to work on the rifles. The variable drill allowed me to maintain a low rpm carding, I know pretty back woods I've not "real" equipment such as true gunsmiths have.....just a back woods dude.
    Yes, I am quite pleased with the finished product and look foward to another jaunt down the road in building a sweat box with the necessary gages, lights, dimmer switches etc.....for my Chilean 98 7mm Mauser. I tend to believe that rust bluing is the best "rain" protection there is and I've not enough experience with it but have understood it will stand the test of time.
    thankyou for the kind comment.

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    Looks great, I love rust blue and brown.


    Quote Originally Posted by kodiakrain View Post
    tho some of your terminology lost me...."carding wheel," and stuff like that
    tell us more, if you have the time,...
    A carding wheel is a wire brush with very fine wires meant to go on a buffer, buffers look like a bench grinder but with longer shafts for cotton buffing wheels. “Carding” is the process of knocking off the loose rust without digging into the patina layer under it. You can also card by hand with 0000 steel wool but it must be well degreased also. Any oil before your all done will soak in and stop the rust, so even a fingerprint will make a light spot causing you to start all over.
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    Very nice looking job! Kudos!

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    took some time to just "do" it. funny how we put it off and once we begin it is not too bad. thanks.

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    Very nice indeed. Over the years I have found some good recipes, there is one book in particular that is loaded with excellent formulas. It is an oldie printed sometime in the '20's. Now if I could find the bugger...
    Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitroman View Post
    Very nice indeed. Over the years I have found some good recipes, there is one book in particular that is loaded with excellent formulas. It is an oldie printed sometime in the '20's. Now if I could find the bugger...
    Nitroman, I would be very interested in reading something like that or ..............

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    Okay, let me dig around. It is in one of the bookcases. May take a day....

    Found it!
    Firearm Blueing and Browning by R.H. Angier, published by Samworth Publications, 1936

    The description from abe.com: Spine intact with bumps top and bottom and slight forward lean. Covers with moderate wear - dust jacket with moderate shelf wear, torn spot along worn edges, and slight discoloration on backside. Pages intact with tanning along outside edges.

    Link: http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Book...6x%3D0%26y%3D0

    Some of the chemicals will be challenging to find, but I can help you there. Since you live in Fairbanks, you'll be able to get everything. Most formulas will have the same basic ingredients, so these would be your building blocks. From there you'd have to pick up a few. Well worth the cost of the book.

    Back in the day many of these formulas had ingredients that were commonplace but now would scare the pants off the politically correct. Personal safety is a must. Safety glasses, with a second full-face faceshield to start. Two sets of gloves, both acid resistant, and an ankle-length apron (don't want holes in the Carharts), plus lots of common sense.
    Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

    Better living through chemistry (I'm a chemist)

    You can piddle with the puppies, or run with the wolves...

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    I'll order that book, I've lots of time on my hands this summer, going to take time off. been around quite a few caustic materials in my time so alert/prep time is always done with detail. thankyou

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    Is that all cold rust blue/brown or are there also hot blues, Parkerizing formulas in it?
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  12. #12

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    Great job Grizz! You've encouraged me to go ahead with modern guns.

    Here's another approach for rust bluing. Scroll down the page. Haven't tried it on a modern gun yet, but it's been dandy on the two muzzleloaders I tried it on. The browning is excellent and easy if you want that finish.

    One tip worth passing along: I made a "sweat box" from plywood for the high humidity environment. Just a plywood box with a hinged lid and a light socket in it for an incandescent bulb (I used 60 watt). Add a wet towel close to the light, and let er rip.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    Is that all cold rust blue/brown or are there also hot blues, Parkerizing formulas in it?
    Arrgghhh! Now I am going to have to find the book. I have several books/publications by Samworth Publishing, and was able to find the book using the publisher. I have the book in a cabinet...one of many...
    Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

    Better living through chemistry (I'm a chemist)

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    Found my book. Yes, there is a section in the back on "phosphating", but nothing in the index that says, "cold...".

    I looked through the book and yes there are some formulas that are cold, and do not need to be heated.

    Also, many of the best formulas use mercuric chloride, which while available, is poisonous, and so I cannot recommend them for the hobbyist unless the hobbyist is very serious and willing to put up with dealing inhalation hazards and with the hazardous waste and cost of said waste. There are plenty of formulas that do not use this compound though, so it is still a perfectly viable resource for anyone wishing to try their hand at rust blueing.
    Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

    Better living through chemistry (I'm a chemist)

    You can piddle with the puppies, or run with the wolves...

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    for me it is fantastic as I've plenty of good snow that works with this rusting process, change the water out every 2 or 3 boils makes me happy. I have to rethink what I am going to use later this month or in the next to come. I am glad to hear that I inspired you, it just takes the first step to get it going. I've procrastinated for so long I tire of just thinking about it in thepast. there is no humidity to speak of here in the foothills so that heat lamp and sweat box is gonna be a must. I suspect to show my work as I go here in the forum. looking foward to seeing you're finished work. thankyou!

    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    Great job Grizz! You've encouraged me to go ahead with modern guns.

    Here's another approach for rust bluing. Scroll down the page. Haven't tried it on a modern gun yet, but it's been dandy on the two muzzleloaders I tried it on. The browning is excellent and easy if you want that finish.

    One tip worth passing along: I made a "sweat box" from plywood for the high humidity environment. Just a plywood box with a hinged lid and a light socket in it for an incandescent bulb (I used 60 watt). Add a wet towel close to the light, and let er rip.

  16. #16
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    The book sounds like a great resource for we Alaskans where getting pre-formulated stuff shipped up is a bear.
    Andy
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  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitroman View Post
    Okay, let me dig around. It is in one of the bookcases. May take a day....

    Found it!
    Firearm Blueing and Browning by R.H. Angier, published by Samworth Publications, 1936

    The description from abe.com: Spine intact with bumps top and bottom and slight forward lean. Covers with moderate wear - dust jacket with moderate shelf wear, torn spot along worn edges, and slight discoloration on backside. Pages intact with tanning along outside edges.

    Link: http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Book...6x%3D0%26y%3D0

    Some of the chemicals will be challenging to find, but I can help you there. Since you live in Fairbanks, you'll be able to get everything. Most formulas will have the same basic ingredients, so these would be your building blocks. From there you'd have to pick up a few. Well worth the cost of the book.

    Back in the day many of these formulas had ingredients that were commonplace but now would scare the pants off the politically correct. Personal safety is a must. Safety glasses, with a second full-face faceshield to start. Two sets of gloves, both acid resistant, and an ankle-length apron (don't want holes in the Carharts), plus lots of common sense.

    FYI that book is $99 from the source you posted. It's $15 at Amazon.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by evandailey View Post
    FYI that book is $99 from the source you posted. It's $15 at Amazon.com
    Go to abe.com and search by title, there are copies from $10.00 US. I don't now where you are searching.

    1.

    Firearm Blueing and Browning

    Angier, R.H.
    Bookseller: HPB-Ohio
    (Columbus, OH, U.S.A.)
    Bookseller Rating:
    Quantity Available: 1

    Price: US$ 10.00
    Convert Currency Shipping: US$ 3.99
    Within U.S.A.
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    Book Description: Stackpole Books, 1936. Hardcover. Book Condition: Good. 1936, wear to edges and corners, Supplements unopened if applicable. Book may have minimal writing/marks. Dust jacket present if applicable. Moderate handling wear. Connecting readers with great books since 1972. We care about our customers. Bookseller Inventory # mon0000325972
    Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

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    You can piddle with the puppies, or run with the wolves...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by evandailey View Post
    FYI that book is $99 from the source you posted. It's $15 at Amazon.com
    It was $27 when he posted it but that copy sold now, its out of print so prices very widely. Also it looks like it reprinted in the 70s and 90s. I got a copy from the 1930s for $9 off Amazon last night so they are out there at all kinds of prices.
    Andy
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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitroman View Post
    Go to abe.com and search by title, there are copies from $10.00 US. I don't now where you are searching.
    My apologies. When I clicked your link, the copy it brought up was $99! I've paid that for out of print books before, but not for ones that could be had for $15. I didn't see that there were multiple sources from abe.com

    I was just trying to let folks know the one I saw wasn't the only source.

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