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Thread: Trolling motor on canoe, what size?

  1. #21
    Member AKsoldier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllAlaskan View Post
    That would be awesome. let me know if things work out.
    You don't have a square stern though, right? Aren't you building your own side - mount transom? Just FYI - the old Johnson is fairly heavy, so use some sturdy materials. I'd guess it's in the 50-60 lb. range. I have two tanks for it, as well as several spare shear pins. I'm going to go ahead and buy the little Suzuki, since I just found out I got the job I was hoping for. The Old Johnson is yours to use until you can buy one.

    The other 299,300,000 people can have it.

    Noone has a more intimate understanding of, or deeper appreciation for freedom, than a soldier who has fought for it in a country where it does not exist.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by AKsoldier View Post
    You don't have a square stern though, right? Aren't you building your own side - mount transom? Just FYI - the old Johnson is fairly heavy, so use some sturdy materials. I'd guess it's in the 50-60 lb. range. I have two tanks for it, as well as several spare shear pins. I'm going to go ahead and buy the little Suzuki, since I just found out I got the job I was hoping for. The Old Johnson is yours to use until you can buy one.
    Check out MWR - They may rent smaller motors.. This could provide a bit of time enjoying while saving a bit..

  3. #23
    Member AKsoldier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgrant09 View Post
    Check out MWR - They may rent smaller motors.. This could provide a bit of time enjoying while saving a bit..
    Thanks for the info, I didn't know they rented just motors. I'll pass that along to my buddies who are still in. I can't use that service anymore though - I'm out of the army now and didn't retire, so I have no access on post. (I got out after 7.5 years because they said I would have to leave Alaska if I stayed in any longer.) The 2.5 Suzuki is already ordered and should be on it's way soon.

    The other 299,300,000 people can have it.

    Noone has a more intimate understanding of, or deeper appreciation for freedom, than a soldier who has fought for it in a country where it does not exist.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKsoldier View Post
    You don't have a square stern though, right? Aren't you building your own side - mount transom? Just FYI - the old Johnson is fairly heavy, so use some sturdy materials. I'd guess it's in the 50-60 lb. range. I have two tanks for it, as well as several spare shear pins. I'm going to go ahead and buy the little Suzuki, since I just found out I got the job I was hoping for. The Old Johnson is yours to use until you can buy one.
    No its not a square stern. Its a 17 foot colaman ram-x with the pointed rear end. I was building a my own side mount for a trolling motor but I have been looking at some DIY outriggers on youtube and was actually thinking about building one for my canoe and implicating a motor mount off the outrigger right next to the canoe. I think it might just make things easier if I do. then if I did it right I could even use the space between the outrigger and canoe to hold a gas can and maybe a cooler or two as well.

    I have a few large chunks ( 3x4x1 foot chunks) of dock foam I could incorporate into a outrigger. I need to do some more research on it, I think thats what I am going to end up doing. Make it where its not hanging way off the canoe but maybe a couple feet between the canoe and the flotation device on the end.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AKsoldier View Post
    (I got out after 7.5 years because they said I would have to leave Alaska if I stayed in any longer.)
    I know this off topic, and I apologize to the group, but I couldn't pass it up.

    My Dad was stationed here in the Army in the late 1940's and during the Korean War. His brother was in Korea during that time. My uncle has said to me that in "his day" going to Alaska was a punishment. (That's how my Dad got here.) They would threaten soldiers with "If you don't shape up, we're going to ship you to Alaska." I wonder when it changed from punishment to incentive.

  6. #26
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    When they started getting rez.cost hunting licenses
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    What, its horrible hear people. Dont move up here.....um I mean there's no wild life and its frozen all the time


    Hey Will, I remember once before you said you had an outrigger for your canoe would you by chance have any pictures of it? Trying to get some ideas for mine. I have some already but wanted to see if you had any pictures

  8. #28
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    This is something like what I had in mind, maybe not as "pretty" lol, but same basic idea. Also I dont think I would want it to be that far away from the canoe, a bit closer to the canoe itself. Maybe make it Adjustable too.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6l5nfk5SYR4

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllAlaskan View Post
    I am looking to use it on mellow streams and lakes locally. But I am also planning on using it when out camping for 2-4 days at a time, so If battery life is an issue as well. Does a 30 lb thrust use that much less than a 55 lb thrust?
    If you look at how much current is being used by the 30# thrust motor at full power and compare it to how much current the 55# thrust motor is drawing @ 30# thrust should tell you with motor is the better buy. If current draw is your only concern.

    How long you are able to run will depend on what battery you buy and what charger you use to recharge the battery.

    There two ways to select a battery, (1) ask a friend what you should buy or (2) figure out how many hours you will use the motor and that will tell you how many amps you will need (X3). Now you have the information needed to select a battery use for trolling. Not all marine or deep cycle batteries are made for trolling. Last and just as importance make sure the charger will charge the battery to 100%. This will also take a little research.

    Will it matter if you do what I suggest? In the short turns no. Next year you may find that you are not going as far before the battery dies and you have to start carrying two batteries or not.

  10. #30
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    Aksoldier is nice enough to let me use his old 5.5 hp outboard till I can buy a new gas motor. Thanks for that info though, I may end up with a gas and trolling motor for iteventually and that information you gave is helpful.

  11. #31
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Note that most store bought canoe side motor mounts are only good up to 3h/p with a few going to 4h/p. I don't have pics of my pontoons but used 1" pvc pipe and two white crabpot floats on each side. The cross pieces are five foot 1" pvc and because I had it I put five foot of half inch pcv inside it. The top of the floats ride about four inches below the top edge of the canoe



    /--------------------\
    2' \/---------------------\
    5'
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amigo Will View Post
    Note that most store bought canoe side motor mounts are only good up to 3h/p with a few going to 4h/p. I don't have pics of my pontoons but used 1" pvc pipe and two white crabpot floats on each side. The cross pieces are five foot 1" pvc and because I had it I put five foot of half inch pcv inside it. The top of the floats ride about four inches below the top edge of the canoe



    /--------------------\
    2' \/---------------------\
    5'
    Oo ok. I am going to make my own mount. I need to pick up some Epoxy and fiberglass. I think I am going to make the Out rigger out of plywood filled with foam, then coat the outside with Epoxy resin and use Fiberglass on all the wood seems. Then the supports that go from the canoe to the outrigger are going to also be the motor mount. This way all 50 lbs of the engine isn't trying to weight the canoe way over to the side and will help make it a little more stable at speed. I already have a 8x4 sheet of 1/2 inch plywood that I can use and I have that big chunk of dock foam that I plan on using to fill the inside of the outrigger. Its open cell but since the wood is going to be water proofed with epoxy and fiberglass I dont think that will be a big deal.

    As for the two supports that go from the canoe to the outrigger I was thinking about using 2x4s encased in epoxy and fiberglass also. Do you think that would be fine? I was thinking with a 2x4 cut to shape then fiber glassed with Epoxy should be strong enough to work as a support and also support the weight and strain of the engine. What do you guys think of that? Also i dont plan on having the outrigger more then 3 feet or so from the canoe, that way if I take it some where like the Little Su or Jim Creek its a little narrower (No more than say 8 feet from outside edge of canoe to outside edge of Out rigger ) for avoiding those big river boats.

  13. #33
    Premium Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
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    you can mount a motor directly off the back of the stern, with two piece of angle iron bolted to the top of the gunwales, and onto a flate plate. on both sides of the flat plate, mount two transom boards.

    This centers the motor rear-ward. when you lift the motor, locking it upward, you then have a nice paddling stroke with the paddle, not impeded by a motor. A till extension does help too. I've built these.

    That little johson is all of 40 lbs, if that.......great little motor.


    There is no replacement for a real motor IMO. You get em idling low, and they make great trolling motors too. I pulled a guy all the way up rabbit slough because his trolling motor lost juice, he went through two batteries trying to get back up.

    matnaggewinu


  14. #34
    Member AKsoldier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainer_in_ak View Post
    you can mount a motor directly off the back of the stern, with two piece of angle iron bolted to the top of the gunwales, and onto a flate plate. on both sides of the flat plate, mount two transom boards.

    This centers the motor rear-ward. when you lift the motor, locking it upward, you then have a nice paddling stroke with the paddle, not impeded by a motor. A till extension does help too. I've built these.

    That little johson is all of 40 lbs, if that.......great little motor.


    There is no replacement for a real motor IMO. You get em idling low, and they make great trolling motors too. I pulled a guy all the way up rabbit slough because his trolling motor lost juice, he went through two batteries trying to get back up.
    In the interest of accuracy, so AllAK builds his transom strong enough, I have to disagree with the part I made bold in your quote. I just took my scale out to the storage shed where the motor in question is being stored, and the dry weight is 55 lbs.

    The other 299,300,000 people can have it.

    Noone has a more intimate understanding of, or deeper appreciation for freedom, than a soldier who has fought for it in a country where it does not exist.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mainer_in_ak View Post
    you can mount a motor directly off the back of the stern, with two piece of angle iron bolted to the top of the gunwales, and onto a flate plate. on both sides of the flat plate, mount two transom boards.

    This centers the motor rear-ward. when you lift the motor, locking it upward, you then have a nice paddling stroke with the paddle, not impeded by a motor. A till extension does help too. I've built these.

    That little johson is all of 40 lbs, if that.......great little motor.


    There is no replacement for a real motor IMO. You get em idling low, and they make great trolling motors too. I pulled a guy all the way up rabbit slough because his trolling motor lost juice, he went through two batteries trying to get back up.
    I am having a hard time picturing the plate in the back, I think I might know what you mean but would you happen to have a picture or one built like this?


    Quote Originally Posted by AKsoldier View Post
    In the interest of accuracy, so AllAK builds his transom strong enough, I have to disagree with the part I made bold in your quote. I just took my scale out to the storage shed where the motor in question is being stored, and the dry weight is 55 lbs.
    Ya I want this thing to be as strong as possible, thats why I want to get some pictures to get a good idea. Chances are I will end up over building it lol, but better then under building it. I will probably end up tie a rope to the engine just in case any way.

  16. #36
    Premium Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKsoldier View Post
    In the interest of accuracy, so AllAK builds his transom strong enough, I have to disagree with the part I made bold in your quote. I just took my scale out to the storage shed where the motor in question is being stored, and the dry weight is 55 lbs.
    wow, hefty little fella. is it a twin cylinder? I would not mount that on a side mount.....no way n heck. a mount like I mentioned would be a must.

    matnaggewinu


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    Quote Originally Posted by mainer_in_ak View Post
    wow, hefty little fella. is it a twin cylinder? I would not mount that on a side mount.....no way n heck. a mount like I mentioned would be a must.

    haha, thats why I was talking about building an outrigger to help support the motor lol. I am liking the sound of the mount you were talking about, if you had some pictures that would be nice to see for reference, if not I am sure i can figure it out from what you said though.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainer_in_ak View Post
    wow, hefty little fella. is it a twin cylinder? I would not mount that on a side mount.....no way n heck. a mount like I mentioned would be a must.
    It is a twin. AllAK was talking about building an outrigger on one side though, and with the extra flotation on that side I would think mounting the motor on that side between the canoe and the outrigger would be safe enough.

    The other 299,300,000 people can have it.

    Noone has a more intimate understanding of, or deeper appreciation for freedom, than a soldier who has fought for it in a country where it does not exist.

  19. #39
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    What I see happening is a all ready heavy canoe is getting a lot of weight added to it along with bulk making transport on a car top hard to do. The bigger things are made the stronger they need to be attached (3 bungee cords attach my outriggers). The Coleman has a lot of flex so even if one section is made to withstand extra forces the other sections will still have their normal flex and strenght and could become over worked.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

  20. #40
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    if you don't have a welder, you can use 90 degree angle brackets to bolt up the plate, diagonal braces can also be made where the transom plate mates to the angle iron.

    You don't need overly thick angle iron, and you can use the rear-most bolts for the rear seat, only having to drill two holes for the little rear cross member. make sure the plate sits rear-ward enough so that you can still freely tighten the motor onto the transom plate.

    The motor will sit a bit higher....kuddos in shallows.

    I've buillt a half dozen of these things for various double enders. Outriggers are rediculous, and impede paddling ability. The will allow you unobstructed paddling abliity with the motor lifted. It's also safer.......centering the weight of the motor. keep some weight in the canoe....gas coolers, ect. float the canoe to see it's balance before firing up the motor. Shift things to keep it level.

    with that said, I agree with Amigo. You taking a canoe that was never intended for this.....and doing silly things. Sell crap you don't need, and buy a square stern in the future, so then you'll at least be using it for it's intended purpose.

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    matnaggewinu


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