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Thread: Trailer mods??

  1. #1
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Default Trailer mods??

    I am brand new to the RV/Travel Trailer world and this forum has been "winterized" for the last 7 months so I figure its time to dig it out and start thinking about summer! I haven't even pulled my trailer 1" yet but I am sure that I will be working on it and making changes in short order. Are there any must have mods or tricks?

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    Stabilizer bars & mirrors. Not much different than most trailers. Make sure everything that can fall or break is put away. Secured Even things like blinds that can run back & forth

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    Member jkb's Avatar
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    Secure the paper towel roll on the paper towel holder. You will find the entire roll unrolled on the floor after each drive.
    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming-----WOW-----what a ride!
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    Member Roger45's Avatar
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    Not really a Mod, but be sure to pack your heel bearings each year, and check your lift springs a couple times a year to make sure they are not damaged on our Alaskan roads. Check for odd tire ear too, and upgrade your tires if they are factory and cheap. IMHO, most trailer mattresses are crap as well, and worth replacing. Think about upgrading the trailer batteries if you are going out on trips where you will be using them. If your rig doesn't have a generator, getting a portable is a must for me as well.
    "...and then Jack chopped down the beanstock, adding murder and ecological vandalism to the theft, enticement and vandalism charges already mentioned, but he got away with it and lived happily ever after without so much as a guilty twinge about what he had done. Which proves that you can be excused just about anything if you're a hero, because no one asks the inconvenient questions." Terry Pratchett's The Hogfather

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    Most trucks and camper are wired so the truck will charge the camper battery when going down the road. If you have a volt meter put it across the camper battery it should read app. 12.6v turn on the truck the voltage should read >13.8v. Add a battery switch if you don't have one, so your battery will not drain when you are not using them. You will need a generator if you camp for a long time i would add a bigger tank to keep it running all night and an good battery charger not one from a auto store.

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Thanks for the note on the paper towel roll, I could definitely see me making that mistake!

    My rig has an Onan 5.5kw plumbed into the 30 gallon fuel station tank so I am set on that end. It also does have a battery cutoff switch. I am just starting to research hitches and there seems to be a ton of hotly contested options.

    I will take a good look at the batteries when I pick it up, they were replaced last fall but I don't know what brand or rating they are.

    The previous owner set it up with a box that fits between the propane tanks and the front of the trailer to haul extra fuel or firewood.

  7. #7
    Member Derby06's Avatar
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    OK never pulled it; not mods, but needs.
    Hopefully you at least have a 3/4 ton, preferebly a 1 ton.
    Even then you will probably want stabilizer and a sway bar.
    2011 F350 SRW CC long bed and I need them pulling my 28' Toy Hauler. Need may be a strong word, I did need them with my '97, but know the difference with and without them with the '11.

    - If you can afford them, solar panels are GREAT. I'll never own another one without them.
    - Go to a pawn shop and get a socket and breaker bar or rachet with extension that fits your Hot water heater. You can store it right there in the compartment and never have to hunt down that big socket or bring the whole box of tools with you.
    - With that; get ya a cheap tool set to leave in the camper for camping repaires on everything. I told my wife that and she got me a craftsman set for the trailer...lol

    I'll post as I think of more.....

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    After a couple trips you'll figure out what rolls around & falls. Clear off counters & secure anything big. Depending on how much water capacity you have. You might think of filling close to your destination instead of packing the extra weight. Make sure your 12 vt water pump & water heater work before you make your first trip. Most trailers have low point drains underneath trailer. You should leave them off for the winter

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Definitely some good notes! I have a 2009 F250 3/4 ton diesel crew cab that is barely broken in @ only 18k miles. It weighs almost 8500 lbs with the 36 gallon tank full and me in the driver seat according to the scale at the dump so it should have what it takes to drag this rig.

    I am planning to go talk with valley RV when I get it home and see what they recommend for a hitch. I don't know if I will be good to go with just a weight distribution hitch or if I will also need a sway control system as well.

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    Member cdubbin's Avatar
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    Don't know what you got, but pay close attention to moisture buildup; seems like every RV over a few years old I've seen has mold or water damage issues of some form or another, I've repaired a few and had to scrap others. At the very least keep it tarped in the winter and check the roof, windows, etc. for leakage periodically. Slide-outs can be very prone to water penetration. Proper ventilation is a must.
    " Gas boats are bad enough, autos are an invention of the devil, and airplanes are worse." ~Allen Hasselborg

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