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Thread: 44 cal. bullets

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    Default 44 cal. bullets

    going on a float moose hunt this fall. i will be carrying a s & w 44 cal model 329 with a 4" barrel as back up. i was wondering if anyone has an thoughts or experiences on what kind of bullets to use. i was thinking corbon 320 gr hard cast or barnes 225 gr hp. thanks for any info.

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    Member barber8605's Avatar
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    Back up for hunting or bear protection? What's your primary weapon?

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Kind of depends where you are hunting but its hard to beat hardcast in 280/320 grain range as general carry ammo anywhere up here.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    You are very well set with the Corbon 320s.
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    Member S.B.'s Avatar
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    Are you asking about what bullet or load(manufacturer) to carry? Personally, I like the Lee 310 grain RF from Montana Bullet works, pushed as fast as your handgun can stand,
    Steve

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amigo Will View Post
    Kind of depends where you are hunting but its hard to beat hardcast in 280/320 grain range as general carry ammo anywhere up here.
    My sentiments exactly.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

    If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

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    Member OKElkHunter's Avatar
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    I second the 310 gr Montana Bullets. But if you are buying loaded ammo, I'd get the heavest hard cast or Flat Point that you can chamber and cycle in your pistol. Test the 300 gr Corbon and make sure it isn't too long for your pistol. A lot of the heavy bullets will only chamber and cycle thru Ruger Super Red hawks and modified Lever Action rifles.
    ďDon't expect to build up the weak by pulling down the strong." ~Calvin Coolidge~

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    thanks.....

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    You also may want to load 6, shoot 5, then measure the 6th for bullet creep. The lightweight S&W's will pull a lot of bullets that don't have problems in heavier guns, and could end up binding the cylinder. I've seen it happen with .357s in Scandium J frames, and heard of it bad enough in some handloads to (in one case) make a one shot non-revolver.

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    Member S.B.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottr View Post
    You also may want to load 6, shoot 5, then measure the 6th for bullet creep. The lightweight S&W's will pull a lot of bullets that don't have problems in heavier guns, and could end up binding the cylinder. I've seen it happen with .357s in Scandium J frames, and heard of it bad enough in some handloads to (in one case) make a one shot non-revolver.
    I've owned more than my share of S&Ws and never saw this in any of the ones I've owned if reloads are done correctly. But this could happen in any brand of handgun if reloads aren't done correctly. Too bad you want to start another S&W ve. Ruger debate.
    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amigo Will View Post
    Kind of depends where you are hunting but its hard to beat hardcast in 280/320 grain range as general carry ammo anywhere up here.
    Times three.

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    Quote Originally Posted by S.B. View Post
    I've owned more than my share of S&Ws and never saw this in any of the ones I've owned if reloads are done correctly. But this could happen in any brand of handgun if reloads aren't done correctly. Too bad you want to start another S&W ve. Ruger debate.
    Steve
    Itís not a brand debate itís the light scandium frames being lighter recoil with more snap and can pull bullets. There are 3 components to bullet creep, the heaver the bullet, the hotter the load, and the lighter the gun the more likely bullet creep is no matter who made any of it. I load a hot cast in a 454 case that runs just fine in my heavy X-frames but creeps badly in my lighter Super Redhawks, the mass of the guns is why not the brands.
    Andy
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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Dull the wheel on a tubing cutter and after your die has crimped the load run the cutter around it a couple times with a little pressure and you won't jump crimp anymore. Not for the beginning reloader until he knows what he is looking at.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Will, are you talking on the crimp, or under the bullet base?

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    In the crimp, its a Kelly/JDJ trick from the 80's useing 26gr. of 296 under a 320 JDJ hc 44
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Quote Originally Posted by S.B. View Post
    I've owned more than my share of S&Ws and never saw this in any of the ones I've owned if reloads are done correctly. But this could happen in any brand of handgun if reloads aren't done correctly. Too bad you want to start another S&W ve. Ruger debate.
    Steve
    Whatever gets you up in the morning!?!?! You really ought to check your reading comprehension, and memory. I have no idea what you are talking about re: S&W v Ruger?????? Maybe it's my memory? What did I forget? Anyway, I am glad you haven't had any problems with your loads. I can only aspire to that level of perfection in my reloading. Oh wait, I've never reloaded. Keep on keepin' on!

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    The Federal Premium 300 or 325 gr? (can' remember what they are off the top of my head), tend to work best for my experience with the 329. Anything loaded hotter than those tend to stick in the cylinder when you try to eject the empty casings. Recoil is really noticeable as well.

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    The only problem I know of with S&W is some of the bigger bullets crimped in the bottom groove are to long for the cylinder but they are not for light guns no matter the maker.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    thanks for all the information!!!!!!!!

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    Member kaisersosei's Avatar
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    Stay away from hot rounds in that revolver like Buffalo Bore 340's, my buddy had his frame crack after running the hotter loads in his 329PD.

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