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Thread: What kind of mauser is this?

  1. #1
    Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
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    Default What kind of mauser is this?

    It's been sporterized. It appears the bolt release and the safety are replacements. Two positions on the safety: up/safe down/fire. To remove the floorplate, you have to press a detent and slide the floorplate forward. Trigger is horrible....ungodly amount of creep. It has been re-barreled with a heavy/long 338 win mag barrel. The owner is trying to determine if it's worth lightening up/shortening up and attaching open sights.

    Only one numuber visible which is on the receiver: F.11597


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    Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
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    Here dah floorplate:

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    Member Scorpion8's Avatar
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    Original Mauser 1898 of some flavor. The floorplate is the original military release. Meant to be removed very seldom, you push up on the recessed button and slide the floorplate backward a bit. The safety is an aftermarket Dayton-Traister Mark.II style that is very easy to install, and meant to make scope mounting acceptable because it doesn't need to rotate thru 180-degress to actuate. Otherwise except for the scope mounts it looks mostly original. Trigger is probably the original military if the creep is that bad.

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Should be more info under the front scope base.
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    Member GD Yankee's Avatar
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    From your picture there looks to be a cutout on the front ring to facilitate loading longer cartridges. Several variants had this, including some Turks:

    http://www.turkmauser.com/03/images/Turk1903_6.jpg

    Any stamps/proof marks under the front scope base or side rail? Also the front scope base looks similar to a Warne mount and the rear looks like a Weaver.

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    Member cdubbin's Avatar
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    If there's no crest, you could pull the barrel and measure the threads; small ring, probably a turk, large ring, could be anything. I think
    " Gas boats are bad enough, autos are an invention of the devil, and airplanes are worse." ~Allen Hasselborg

  7. #7
    Member Scorpion8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainer_in_ak View Post
    The owner is trying to determine if it's worth lightening up/shortening up and attaching open sights.
    It's worth it if the owner really likes/trusts that rifle and wants to improve it.

  8. #8
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Mike if you have a hack saw and drill press you can do it cheap and I'll send you some sights I got laying around no charge.The collector value is all gone so nothing to lose.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
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    Hey, Will thanks for the offer. I'm trying to help the guy lighten up the rifle (his only rifle). He was in an auto accident last year, and wants a lighter rifle due to his permanent injuries. The darn thing weighs 9 lbs without a scope. It's got a medium-heavy/26 inch long barrel with a 50mm objective 3-9 on it.

    He doesn't want to spend too much on it, BUT he did grab a set of NECG open sights, a weaver 1-3 staight tube, and some quick release rings. All he's gotta do now, is cut the barrel down to 20". It should then be well over a pound lighter.

  10. #10
    Member Redlander's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainer_in_ak View Post
    Hey, Will thanks for the offer. I'm trying to help the guy lighten up the rifle (his only rifle). He was in an auto accident last year, and wants a lighter rifle due to his permanent injuries. The darn thing weighs 9 lbs without a scope. It's got a medium-heavy/26 inch long barrel with a 50mm objective 3-9 on it.

    He doesn't want to spend too much on it, BUT he did grab a set of NECG open sights, a weaver 1-3 staight tube, and some quick release rings. All he's gotta do now, is cut the barrel down to 20". It should then be well over a pound lighter.
    The trigger is most likely the original two stage military trigger - could switched out for Timney in about 30 minutes or less by a competent gunsmith. I'd only cut the barrel to 24" and then have someone like WW guns flute the barrel. The muzzel blast from a .338 Win Mag with a 20" barrel is going to be nuclear like :O. Get everything put on, then wipe it down with acetone, tape off what you don't painted, and attack that thing with some satin finished Rustoleum, in various colors. I've got an 870 shotgun that has had that finish on for going on 20 years duck hunting and it's holding up well. Your friend would then have something nobody else would, a completely custom Alaska bush special.

  11. #11
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Honestly if he needs a lighter rifle due to injuries, he'd probably be better off just buying a light rifle.

    While I like 98 mausers, they are heavy actions and if the barrel is a heavy contour barrel, then the way to really lighten it up is to re-countour it. There is no real cheap way to shave a bunch or weight of the rifle IMHO. As to barrel shortening and re-crowning, I've used a variety of crowning methods and IMHO the only way to properly crown a rifle barrel is in a lathe, as other methods will degrade the rifles accuracy.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

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    Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
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    The thing is too accurate to mess with. He's gonna have to get a new rifle. He changed his mind, canceled his orders. I don't know what kind of barrel this is, but man do those lands/grooves look butter smooth. It must have been a hand lapped barrel. As an ATV/Boat gun to be thrashed and not carried far.........no need to change it I guess. He just needs to step up to a cheap stevens 308 winchester.

    350 in hand, it'll walk out this door. It will at least give the fellow a chance to hunt again, with a lighter alternative.

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    Maniac,
    I believe your mystery Mauser started life as an FN Columbian military 98, and was later arsenal converted to '06, before being surplused out and imported to the US. I have an action from one of those conversions, and the serial number is preceded by an F as is yours, and is in the same place on the action. It also has the notch in the rear of the front action ring for bullet nose clearance. The converted actions were stamped Framage, which, IIRC, was the arsenal where the work was done, which, based on my one action looks to have been of high quality. I don't know if the Columbian 98s were all FN or from other makers too. The example I have is an FN 98 and has the Columbian crest on it. Some (most?) are stamped .30 on the rear receiver ring. If you do an internet search for Framage Mauser you can find discussion of them.

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    Oops - I mis-spoke; the converted Mausers were stamped R Famage and not Framage as I had written before.

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