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Thread: Versatility of a 17' Coleman Scanoe?

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    Member AKsoldier's Avatar
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    Default Versatility of a 17' Coleman Scanoe?

    I should first mention that I'm something of a boating rookie. I have used a scanoe like the one in my title several times, most often with a trolling motor running off a deep-cycle battery. I've trolled a few lakes, including Nancy - caught a Pike, the battery went dead and I got quite a work - out paddling against the wind for the last two miles.

    That one was borrowed, this time I'm buying my own. And I've learned my lesson. I'm going with a small outboard. There are a couple I'm looking at - a 3.6 HP and a 5.5 HP. The lesser HP is newer, thus logically more reliable, and the 5.5 is more powerful. Which would you choose, and why?

    And - what would be my limitations with this combo? I plan to stick to local lakes for the most part, but would this setup be safe for milder rivers?

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Both motors should be OK. Are the motors 2 stroke or 4 stroke. A 3.5 2stroke will have about the same speed as a 5h/p 4 stroke.
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    I can't think of a more important attribute for a canoe motor to have, than reliability.

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    I would go with the 3.6 as that is enough and there will be little speed difference between the two. I would think the 3.6 is lighter and that is good and will probably burn less fuel. It will be safe enough in milder rivers but shallow water will eat props. The scanoe is a bear to paddle but even a 2hp will push it along pretty good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbuck351 View Post
    ...but even a 2hp will push it along pretty good.
    Agreed, but beware the versions that don't have a reverse gear. You have to sit so far back to use the motor in "reverse" (actually spun around backwards) it can be a bear with light loads and wind. With the tiller forward for all gears, you can put on an extension in light-load condition and get your weight forward for a lot better performance.

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    look out for for the motors that have sheer pins to drive the prop it will break at the time you need it the most , try to get a prop with the slip clutch built in to it [ no sheer pin ]

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    Member sayak's Avatar
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    The Scanoe is not versatile. I will be glad to take it off your hands, however. The motor too.

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    Member AKsoldier's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info and advice folks. Amigo - they are both two - stroke.

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    The 3.6 should be all you will ever need. A handle extention is a good thing to have as well as about a hundred pounds of weight up front while running alone.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Member AKsoldier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amigo Will View Post
    The 3.6 should be all you will ever need. A handle extention is a good thing to have as well as about a hundred pounds of weight up front while running alone.
    Thanks for the tip - I'll keep my gear up front if I'm running solo. I'm also thinking about putting a couple of eye bolts in the rear and running string through them to the control handle. Kind of like toggles - so I can steer while facing forward on long runs.

    The other 299,300,000 people can have it.

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    Member fshgde's Avatar
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    I have a 4 horse for scanoe and it works well also a couple of collapsible water jugs for the front if tavelling alone, they dont weigh much and when you need em fill with water , scanoes are tippy with no weight up front.

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    Member AKsoldier's Avatar
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    Thanks fshgde - great idea!

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    I built a set of pontoons for my Coleman as I'm in the salt alot getting to fresh. Some 1" PVC and a few white foam crab pot floats ads some cheap stability.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Just got home from picking up the canoe and the motor. I went with the 5.5 horse just because it was cheaper. The canoe is well - worn, but still has plenty of life left. I got the canoe and the motor for $650. I think I got a pretty good deal. Now to wait for breakup.....

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    Congrats man...cant wait to see it.

    I know you started the motor right...lol

    Quote Originally Posted by AKsoldier View Post
    Just got home from picking up the canoe and the motor. I went with the 5.5 horse just because it was cheaper. The canoe is well - worn, but still has plenty of life left. I got the canoe and the motor for $650. I think I got a pretty good deal. Now to wait for breakup.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duckhunter01 View Post
    Congrats man...cant wait to see it.

    I know you started the motor right...lol
    He fired it up and showed me the controls. Ran like a top!

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    Check your prop to see if it rubber dampened or shear pin drive. If shear pin drive, DO NOT go farther than you want to paddel back with out a handfull of shear pins. And don't try replacing the pin with something other than the original pin material unless it is a real emergency. Yeah, I think you did well. A 5.5 and a scanoe for 650 is a fair price. Watch the back bottom of the scanoe for wear as well as the very front of the keel. This plastic can be repaired, but it is much better to reinforce before it developes a hole. Use an old fashion soldering iron and hot glue stick and you can actually weld the plastic and make a very tough repair or thicken an area for more wear resistance. I have a 3hp home made long tail on my scanoe and it is working very well.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbuck351 View Post
    Check your prop to see if it rubber dampened or shear pin drive. If shear pin drive, DO NOT go farther than you want to paddel back with out a handfull of shear pins. And don't try replacing the pin with something other than the original pin material unless it is a real emergency. Yeah, I think you did well. A 5.5 and a scanoe for 650 is a fair price. Watch the back bottom of the scanoe for wear as well as the very front of the keel. This plastic can be repaired, but it is much better to reinforce before it developes a hole. Use an old fashion soldering iron and hot glue stick and you can actually weld the plastic and make a very tough repair or thicken an area for more wear resistance. I have a 3hp home made long tail on my scanoe and it is working very well.
    Thanks for the tips! The motor is a shear pin model - the guy I bought it from was up- front about that, and he also recommended I carry spares, so of course, I will.

    While we're on the subject, what's the best place in the valley to get outboard parts like that?

    The other 299,300,000 people can have it.

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    when you put new sheer pins in don't do it in water you can't reach the bottom with your hand because when you drop the nut / cotter pin / prop or all that way you can reach them with your hand
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