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Thread: 336 Bolt pin removal

  1. #1
    Member hodgeman's Avatar
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    Default 336 Bolt pin removal

    OK folks.... I'm trying to replace the firing pin on my Marlin 336. I need to drift out the front and rear pins in order to remove the rear firing pin and the front firing pin. Can't move them in either direction.

    Problem- these things are stuck tight. I can't get them to budge, tried solvent, Kroil and nothing.

    A disassembly video shows roll pins but these are solid (if that makes a difference?).

    Any suggestions appreciated.
    "I do not deal in hypotheticals. The world, as it is, is vexing enough..." Col. Stonehill, True Grit

  2. #2
    Member gunbugs's Avatar
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    Don't know why they won't move for you. Possibly rusted in place? Bring it by next time you are in FBKS. I'm sure I can pop them out in a couple minutes. No charge.
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

  3. #3
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Likely ether knurled and/or red Lock tighted. Need to know on which side, may need an eye loop for that. Then need a good block to support it solid as you brake them free with the punch. Im sure Doug can fix ya up.
    Andy
    On the web= C-lazy-F.co
    Email= Andy@C-lazy-F.co
    Call/Text 602-315-2406
    Phoenix Arizona

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    Member hodgeman's Avatar
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    Thanks Doug and Andy. Doug, I'll give you a ring if I can't break it loose.

    I managed to get the rear pin out.... you won't believe it- but I really believe it is a piece of drill bit tapped into the hole and snapped off. On to the front one...

    Yep- rusted into place and irregular shaped to boot. Since this rifle has been in my family for years I strongly suspect this was done at the factory. Not saying one of my Depression era forefathers wouldn't have pulled such an improvised repair (I've seen much, much worse Farmhouse Technology from them) but I doubt the pin had ever been replaced.
    "I do not deal in hypotheticals. The world, as it is, is vexing enough..." Col. Stonehill, True Grit

  5. #5
    Member hodgeman's Avatar
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    And done....chucked in a vise and whacked with a bigger hammer after soaking all night in kroil.

    New roll pins to replace the seized up solid ones, trimmed them flush.

    The extractor collar stretched a bit during removal and won't quite sit flush and makes the action a little rough. I guess the 1954 vintage spring steel gave up a bit of "spring" when I pulled it off.

    Now I need to replace the extractor....I love gunsmithing.
    "I do not deal in hypotheticals. The world, as it is, is vexing enough..." Col. Stonehill, True Grit

  6. #6
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hodgeman View Post
    And done....chucked in a vise and whacked with a bigger hammer after soaking all night in kroil.

    New roll pins to replace the seized up solid ones, trimmed them flush.

    The extractor collar stretched a bit during removal and won't quite sit flush and makes the action a little rough. I guess the 1954 vintage spring steel gave up a bit of "spring" when I pulled it off.

    Now I need to replace the extractor....I love gunsmithing.
    Good opportunity to put one of WWGs beefed up extractors in it. Old drill bits are common pin replacements, hard steel and come in a handy size assortment. But snapping it off rather than cutting and dressing it into a proper pin sounds like shade tree work for sure.


    Im sure you know this but maybe some dont, when installing a roll pin be sure to align the split in it away from any moving parts or the direction of force . I often see them put in wrong, usually no big deal but it can create some issues.
    Andy
    On the web= C-lazy-F.co
    Email= Andy@C-lazy-F.co
    Call/Text 602-315-2406
    Phoenix Arizona

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