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Thread: Marking Brass...

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    Member akula682's Avatar
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    Default Marking Brass...

    I have a 338 Federal on the way, a rebuild from MGM from an old Win 670 .243. This is going to be mainly a reloaded ammo weapon. I don’t have a warm fuzzy from the 338 Fed stamped brass that is out there, so i was thinking of getting a couple thousand 308 Lapua Brass cases and split them for use in the 308 W and 338 Fed.

    Is there a good way to permanently mark the outside of the case to indicate a difference,? I have thought of burning "338 F" into the side with a laser as it doesn’t remove much brass but the setup is expensive (because the case is round) and i can’t find anyone who would do it for me that already has a machine. Does anyone have any ideas or other methods?

    I have also thought of (please finish reading this before you freak out) Removing some material from the base of the round where the Head Stamp is. I would only go deep enough to remove the “308 Win Lapua” down to the deepest part of the stamp, (only taking off the raised part of the stamp)…anyone have any experience with this?
    Josh
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    I haven't gone that far when making 8x57, 257 Roberts and 6mm Remington from 7x57, as well as keeping original 7x57. I just hit the head with a smear of colored permanent marker so a good bit gets down into the headstamp- Black for 8x57, red for Roberts and green for the 6, while 7x57 stays original. It stays down in the lettering a surprisingly long time, and is no big deal to remark if you feel the need.

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    Removing brass from the base will increase the headspace, most likely beyond what would be considered safe. Also, you'd need to make a mandrel to fit the case on to hold it while you do this. Time consuming. If you really want to do this, have those brass made for you with the headstamp you want.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitroman View Post
    Removing brass from the base will increase the headspace, most likely beyond what would be considered safe. Also, you'd need to make a mandrel to fit the case on to hold it while you do this. Time consuming. If you really want to do this, have those brass made for you with the headstamp you want.
    Sorry, not from the entire head, just the inside where the stamp is.
    Josh
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    Member Alangaq's Avatar
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    also, and i dont meen to be an asz, but you will be able to tell them apart by the size of the neck and the hole..
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    I haven't gone that far when making 8x57, 257 Roberts and 6mm Remington from 7x57, as well as keeping original 7x57. I just hit the head with a smear of colored permanent marker so a good bit gets down into the headstamp- Black for 8x57, red for Roberts and green for the 6, while 7x57 stays original. It stays down in the lettering a surprisingly long time, and is no big deal to remark if you feel the need.
    i didnt think it would last that long... nice to know that it does. Will save a buttload of time and energy thats for sure.
    Josh
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alangaq View Post
    also, and i dont meen to be an asz, but you will be able to tell them apart by the size of the neck and the hole..

    i was thinking of saying somthing about that, the diff between the 308 and the 338 isnt that much, not enough to be an "easy" identifier. I dont plan on reloading both at the same time or mixing the brass in the shop in between loadings... but stuff happens.

    Im not too worried about MY using it but on the off chance that i let someone borrow it with my reloads.
    Josh
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    Quote Originally Posted by akula682 View Post
    Im not too worried about MY using it but on the off chance that i let someone borrow it with my reloads.
    And there you're down to the serious issue. I have 44 mag load that are jim dandy in a Redhawk, but will freeze up a Smith every time you pull the trigger. I have 243 loaded with the bullets seated waaaaay out for a Ruger #1 that won't even fit the mag of a bolt, and I have 257 loaded with custom dies for a custom gun that won't come close to loading into the other two Roberts I own.

    Not a prob for me, but anyone else that comes along......

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    And there you're down to the serious issue. I have 44 mag load that are jim dandy in a Redhawk, but will freeze up a Smith every time you pull the trigger. I have 243 loaded with the bullets seated waaaaay out for a Ruger #1 that won't even fit the mag of a bolt, and I have 257 loaded with custom dies for a custom gun that won't come close to loading into the other two Roberts I own.

    Not a prob for me, but anyone else that comes along......

    Oh yes, my reloads are for the firearm they were made for, when i said "let someone borrow IT with my reloads"... "it" being my 670 that the loads were for.
    I would be "worried" that they (or someone that they might let borrow the rifle) would see the 308 on the case (even though i told them it is a 338 Fed) and grab a box of ammo at the store and wonder why it doesnt shoot straight, why it sounds funny, damage the rifle or godforbid... damage themselves.
    Josh
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    My problem is that I'm not the only one in the house using guns. I'm chief reloader, but along came a wife that shoots, kids that shoot, and now grandkids with a growing interest. Before long I'll be a memory, but odds are better than good there'll be a whole passel of reloaded ammo laying around.

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    I kind of have this problem.

    I own a rifle in .338Federal and I stoke with bulk purchased demilled LC brass. After six months or so of fooling with it the 0.338 looks "normal" and the .308 cases that haven't been neck sized yet look skinny.

    Akula682 has the additional problem of also owning a .308. I think I would - if it was me- get 1000 cases for the 308 and 1000 cases for the .338 with a different head stamp. That way both ends of the brass would look different.

    The thickest neck .308 brass I know of is the Hornady match, but using the long taper expander ball from RCBS I have sized several hundred of the de-militarized 7.62 brass up to .338 neck without splitting one. They are a tiny bit shorter overall than the SAAMI spec for .338Federal; but it is a one off custom Lee factory crimp die anyway, it isn't a tiny bit longer than SAAMI spec, and they seem to be good for four or five loads each when loaded about a grain below max.

    I am about to have the same problem in .45Colt as I have a Redhawk in the house and a tracking number for a New Vaquero. Please do keep the suggestions coming folks.

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    Like BrownBear, I have had good success marking brass with a permanent marker. Unless you find a .338Fed brass manufacture to your liking, I do not think you will find an easier or less expensive method to keep them straight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by akula682 View Post
    Oh yes, my reloads are for the firearm they were made for, when i said "let someone borrow IT with my reloads"... "it" being my 670 that the loads were for.
    I would be "worried" that they (or someone that they might let borrow the rifle) would see the 308 on the case (even though i told them it is a 338 Fed) and grab a box of ammo at the store and wonder why it doesnt shoot straight, why it sounds funny, damage the rifle or godforbid... damage themselves.
    Don’t see any problem, you can see which is what easy. If you loan it out and someone puts a 308 in the 338 Fed it will headspace correctly and just fire form the case, no danger there. If they try to stuff a 308 stamped 338 Fed into a 308 rifle it won’t close and won’t fire so no danger there ether.
     
    If you want a fast ID when in a box nose down just spray some paint/marker/layout fluid on the 338 case heads. Pant (or finger nail polish) will get into the stamp depressions and stay there as long as the brass will last.
     
    Now your choice of Lapua may not be a good choice for necking up, they tend to have a thick shoulder that becomes a bump in the neck that needs to be reamed out. I’d go Lake City 308 myself.
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    For your own use, file a small notch in the rim. As far as loaning it out, either give very careful instructions to someone smart enough to understand what you are saying or don't loan that one.

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    Here's 2 thoughts,

    1) Nickel Plated Brass. I have never used it, always heard it was hard on the dies and didnt last as long due to chipping/ flaking from all the sizing. I would also figure that opening them up to 338 from 308, would chip it really bad.

    2) Milsurp Brass. But i get the impression that it will be the same issue as was mentioned with the Lapua Brass.
    Josh
    Back in Afghanistan, I hope for the last time.

  16. #16

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    Clean the brass used for the 338 with acetone let dry then fill the writeing with red fingernail polish when dry it takes a real beating, but may come off in a tumber after a few trips.
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