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Thread: Pyrodex more corrosive than real black powder?

  1. #1

    Default Pyrodex more corrosive than real black powder?

    Have seen comments elsewhere that Pyrodex is worse than real black powder with regards to corrosive effects. Can anyone confirm this factually? If so, what difference could it make with proper cleaning as soon as possible after shooting (end of hunting day)?

  2. #2


    Lots of apples and oranges when people start talking corrosion.

    To clarify, NEITHER is corrosive until it's been fired. The powder itself won't hurt your barrel. It's the combustion products that do the work if you leave them in the bore. You could load a gun and leave it that way for a year without corrosion. Heck, you have to check really old guns to see if they're loaded, because often they are. And the black powder in them will still ignite.

    Pyrodex RESIDUE from firing is a whole lot more corrosive in my experience than black powder. Did a lot of looking into it, and the skunk in the wood pile is the perclorates it contains. You really, really want to get them out of the bore, or they'll cause serious pitting, usually starting in the groove right up against the rifling.

    But clean the bore well, and there is ZERO issue with either Pyrodex or real black. All the knocks you hear against real black are sales pitch from the guys who make and sell the subs like Pyrodex.

    In fact, real black is easier to clean thoroughly than pyro. Warmish water with maybe a tiny bit of dish soap does it fine. Same will work with pyro, but you have to work at it longer and be a lot more careful after the fact. Be careful of hot water, because it will cause "flash" rusting that forms almost immediately. I'd rather use room temp water than anything warmer.

    My routine with any powder is to clean, dry and oil the bore, then wait a couple of days and run a tight dry patch down the bore. No prob? Not yet. Wait a week and do it again. If you see anything at all on the patch, clean the bore again.

    I use both black and pyro, as well as some of the other subs. Gotta have black for flinters and it's more accurate than subs in a number of my guns. But as a matter of routine, I'll shoot both black and subs in my guns to see which is the most accurate, then go with the one that wins.

    One more thing I've found in damp climates- Pellets deteriorate fast after you open the box. At the very least velocity starts to fall off after a few months, and worst, they can get harder to ignite. If I open a pack of pellets I try to use them up sooner rather than later. Loose powder has been a lot more stable for me over the long term, both for velocity retention and for ignition.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007


    I've not experienced much corrosion in the gun itself with pyro, but when I had a scope on my inline, it ate the living heck out of the finish on the bottom of the scope......was an older bushnell scope but I assume it does this to new ones to. Anyone got a fix for this?

  4. #4


    Appreciate the information.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Sandpoint, ID


    Any experience with Triple Seven?

    I'm moving from a Savage ML10 to a more primative side hammer and need to find an easy to clean and consistant powder.
    Somewhere along the way I have lost the ability to act politically correct. If you should find it, please feel free to keep it.

  6. #6


    A bud will use nothing else in sidehammer caplocks ranging from 32 cal all the way up to 62 cal, swapping between 2f and 3f depending on which the gun prefers. Dandy stuff, accurate as heck, and easy cleaning. Expensive sure, but you use less for the same results. He moved recently and left me 6 jugs, but I haven't done much more than make it go bang so far. I certainly plan to use all 6 jugs testing though, to see if it will help me shoot as well as he does with it!

  7. #7


    A little black electrical tape on the scope where the fouling is causing problems helps. After you get done shooting just peel it off and wipe it down with a oily rag. I shoot 2f, 3f and loose pyrodex. I let the gun decide what I use in them. I have never had good results with pellets in any of my guns. Shoot both through a conograph and I think you will see a big difference.


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