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Thread: new to martin trapping HELP!

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    Member joefish00000's Avatar
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    Default new to martin trapping HELP!

    hey guys,
    ive never set for martin before but next week i plan to get a line out and try my luck..
    im planning to run martin boxes in trees with a 110. I this fall i looked up some plans online and made 20 martin/mink boxes, but im having trouble figuring out how im going to get my 110s to sit right and stay in the box... heres what i have to work with, any help or suggestions appriciated! thanks! joe,Click image for larger version. 

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    “We abuse land because we regard it as a commodity belonging to us. When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect.” - (Aldo Leopold)

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    Member joefish00000's Avatar
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    (let me clarify)
    im trying to make it so i can set the boxes on a tree with the entrance pointed downwards... to prevent snow biuldup and such.. how can i get the trap to stay when its unsidown?
    “We abuse land because we regard it as a commodity belonging to us. When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect.” - (Aldo Leopold)

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    a 110 will work but a 120 will work better. Bend your trap spring upward and it will pinch your trap in place. Once again i would use a 120 not a 110 if you have the option.

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    you can also make your slots in the boxes longer and thinner. I have used a 1/4in router to cut them out. Slide it in, you can make minor adjustments if needed then. As earlier stated, bending the springs will hold it, you can also drill two small holes on each side total of four and use a quarter in dowl rod inserted to keep it from falling, glue or nail a small block measured just a tad bigger than the inside width of the bars..this wil help secure it in place as well.

    Good luck
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    You tube trev's trapline journal. Very fast set and highly visible. He's running 120 belisles but I am sure a regular 120 or 110 would be fine.

    The only issue with conis for marten is removing a frozen marten. You're better off removing trap and all than risking hide damage. If you don't mind carrying the replacement traps its a slick method. I am sure you could hang via a nail eliminating the cordless drill using a cable loop or picture frame style mount.

    I am trying to conjure up a more portable box than one screwed , nailed together. I was thinking a hinge or wire setup. Would make them easier transportable, and easy to tear down. Still rattling this one around in my head lol.

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    I second the 120's as a 110 will not kill a marten right away plus the two springs will hold it in place. Wooden boxes tend to get chewed up by squirrels, #10 cans and coffee cans will work but don't stack inside one another. Newspaper boxes work great and they stack inside one another as do flower pots, I think #300 is the size that most use but they won't fit all brands. TB made a good point, you will have to thaw out the marten before removing a coniber otherwise it will rip out hair that is frozen to the metal.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TradBow View Post
    I am trying to conjure up a more portable box than one screwed , nailed together. I was thinking a hinge or wire setup. Would make them easier transportable, and easy to tear down. Still rattling this one around in my head lol.
    This is what I came up with but never got to test it...I figure it only has to be strong enough to hold the bait and hold up the trap, right?Click image for larger version. 

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    PC gag in place.

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    check this guy out.

    I am going to make some of these, looks like a very easy sytem and give it a try.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pz09du7iVxE

    Maybe keep a few boxes..just because.
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    i always just set the boxes right on the ground,.. never had any problems. also what works very well is a pole set with a leghold

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    your boxes are fine, your traps are fine, get "conn-keepers" they are about 50 cents at sportsman's or a trapping store. they nail right to a tree or you can screw them to your box, here is a picture
    https://www.mainemilitary.com/produc...g/bracket1.jpg basically you set your trap and, at least with mine, on the middle notch a 110 springs will fit tight inside and not fall out, but the jaws will come out when sprung
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    Hasn't anybody heard of using newpaper tubes for marten coni's?
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    Ya I mentioned that in post #6 above but some would rather waste their time trying to build a better mousetrap, me I'll be cutting more line to catch more fur instead of messing around building homemade wooden or wire boxes......................
    I once held the yardstick of anothers perfection, I threw it down and carved my own................

  13. #13

    Default new to martin trapping HELP!

    120s are best, usually kill a lot better than 110s and the get some conn-keepers. They work great!

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    Member joefish00000's Avatar
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    yea if i had the option i would be using 120s but i just dont have the trapps. i have 50 very strong 110s which should do fine. yea the boxes were more of a "im bored make myself usfull" kinda thing. and the trapping im doing is on the road system so transporting isnt an issue.
    “We abuse land because we regard it as a commodity belonging to us. When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect.” - (Aldo Leopold)

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    Member joefish00000's Avatar
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    furfishgame,
    those look like cool little pieces that would really solve the issue im having..
    have you ever attempted to fabricate your own "conkeepers"??
    i think i will give it a try and see what happens...

    thanks everyone
    joe


    Quote Originally Posted by FurFishGame View Post
    your boxes are fine, your traps are fine, get "conn-keepers" they are about 50 cents at sportsman's or a trapping store. they nail right to a tree or you can screw them to your box, here is a picture
    https://www.mainemilitary.com/produc...g/bracket1.jpg basically you set your trap and, at least with mine, on the middle notch a 110 springs will fit tight inside and not fall out, but the jaws will come out when sprung
    “We abuse land because we regard it as a commodity belonging to us. When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect.” - (Aldo Leopold)

  16. #16

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    after watching the 2nd video I doubt I'll bother with con keepers agian.....the conni brackets are slick but that's even slicker and super fast!

    Also his cable set up means NO...ZERO wire!!! doesnt get better'n that lol!

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    Quote Originally Posted by joefish00000 View Post
    yea if i had the option i would be using 120s but i just dont have the trapps. i have 50 very strong 110s which should do fine. yea the boxes were more of a "im bored make myself usfull" kinda thing. and the trapping im doing is on the road system so transporting isnt an issue.
    I wouldn't worrk too much about what you've got Joe, give it a try and see how it goes, I can't seem to find the link now but I have seen a thread on making connibear keepers, in fact it may have been in Fur Fish and Game a month or so ago. I'd try and make some out of plumbers tape, its cheap and should screw right into your boxes. That stuff is almost as useful as grey tape.

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    Member martentrapper's Avatar
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    A piece of wood the right size also works as a coni keeper.
    That Donahue vid is pretty good. A guy could do that with the black plastic flower pots instead of the cones he is using.
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    Very true and a good point. Cant wait to go to the hardware store and ask for 100 flower pots..lol

    Quote Originally Posted by martentrapper View Post
    A piece of wood the right size also works as a coni keeper.
    That Donahue vid is pretty good. A guy could do that with the black plastic flower pots instead of the cones he is using.
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    Three nails hammered halfway in and bent 90 degrees also works. Bend the middle one one way and the outside two the opposite way.

    As far as newspaper tubes, they are not always cost effective $7 ea locally, and I can build boxes for free with all of the crap laying around the house.

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