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Thread: Bullet pulling and resizing brass?

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    Premium Member Wyo2AK's Avatar
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    Question Bullet pulling and resizing brass?

    Hi all.

    I recently worked up a load for me 300wm that shot well when it was 20 degrees out, but had some sticky extractions when things heated up over the summer. So decided to scrap the load and dial it back a bit. That said, I ended up pulling 50 or so rounds to salvage bullets and powder. My question is... do I need to resize the neck of the brass before reloading again? Or am I good to go as is? If the neck needs resized, what's the best way going about that with the live primers?

    Thanks,
    Rich
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    To resize the neck simply remove the decapping rod and run it up into the sizing die. That is after you check the tension in the neck and if you feel you need to resize. That is up to you.
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    Supporting Member iofthetaiga's Avatar
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    What Nitroman said. Sizing again shouldn't be necessary, but if for some reason you deem it so, just pull the decapping pin and you're good to go.
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    Dies re-size by running a "ball" on the end of the decapping pin to enlarge the neck to accept the round. Not necessarily to squeeze the neck down, that is done in the seating die.
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    Premium Member Wyo2AK's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! Much appreciated. It's good to know I can probably save myself an unnecessary step.

    Cheers,
    Rich
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    Well in the interest of uniformity Id size them. By uniformity I mean batch to batch. Lets say you just re-charge and re-seat them and work up your load, you get it all like ya want. Next batch you take your fired brass and load-um up to the recipe and you may find they arent quite as good. Tension may not be the same as the ones you seated twice and used to work up the load . . . Then your maybe into a do-over of the do-over.

    If it was a known good load I just stuff-um back but not for development.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskanmutt View Post
    Dies re-size by running a "ball" on the end of the decapping pin to enlarge the neck to accept the round. Not necessarily to squeeze the neck down, that is done in the seating die.
    Huh? That doesn't sound correct. The expander ball does go into the case when sizing but the die body is also working the outside. The seating die doesn't size anything exept when crimping
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    Quote Originally Posted by alaskabliss View Post
    Huh? That doesn't sound correct. The expander ball does go into the case when sizing but the die body is also working the outside. The seating die doesn't size anything exept when crimping
    You're correct. Sizing dies, be they full length or neck only, squeeze the neck down when the case is inserted into the die, then on the return stroke the neck sizing button sizes the neck to the proper internal diameter as it is drawn out of the case. Seating dies do not effect case dimension at all; they simply align the case and bullet while pushing the bullet into the case. Crimping dies do effect the dimension of the case neck/mouth some, but this is not to be confused with sizing. The role of the decapping pin is simply to push the primer out of the case, and removing it from the stem does not effect the operation of the sizing die or neck sizing button in any way.
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    I pulled a bunch of 338 rounds one time and loaded them without resizing. The neck tension was too loose and some would not stay seated correctly. I screwed the decapping pin all the way up the resized the 338 rounds and they worked fine. I have done the same with other rounds, but had a neck sizing die and used that instead. The problem with FL sizing is you may need some lube to keep the shell from sticking in the die. It does not hurt with the neck sizing either, but if it needs lube, at least it does not lock up inside the die. Be sure all the powder is out. I have looked down inside some rounds and found a bunch in there stuck to the bottom of the case, maybe .5g.

    I had a primed 300 win round stuck in a die. I taped a marble to the end of the shell, took out pin and top screw (the expander was still in the case). I dropped it on the ground while hiding behind a brick fence/wall as a blast shield. There was a nice load "pop" and I then could begin the stuck case extraction process. Not the best on your gear I am sure, but effective. Not the best on little children's ears either, and I am not talking about the noise the primer made after I dropped it.

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    Daved I've had a stuck case before, but not primed! Wow. I had to think for a bit on how I would deal with that and your way is the only way I can see it. After I stuck a case and fought it for awhile, didn't want to get a stuck case tool because im stubborn, I knew I will always use lube. What a PITA that was.
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    Quote Originally Posted by alaskabliss View Post
    After I stuck a case and fought it for awhile, didn't want to get a stuck case tool because im stubborn,
    Im stubborn too but I bet you have most if not all the stuff around the house, dont need no overpriced dedicated tool.

    A or #12 tap, coarse thread is best but fine will do . . . Even backward metric would work.
    Appropriate size drill bit for your tap.
    Bolt with threads all the way to its head and nut.
    A socket that fits over the case head but not the die, usually need a deep well.
    A washer or a stack of assorted washers so the nut doesnt go into the socket.

    Drill and tap case head. Put nut and washer(s) onto bolt. Place socket over case and thread bolt into case through socket. Turn nut along bolt until the case comes out.
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    The other way I have heard to kill the primer is to poor oil into the case and let it soak into the pimer. Still, how do you know if it is dead or not unless you strike it? The marble and wall technique could still be employed to verify if the oil soaked primer worked.

    Long story short, ya resize them and ya, lube 'em up again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    Im stubborn too but I bet you have most if not all the stuff around the house, dont need no overpriced dedicated tool.

    A or #12 tap, coarse thread is best but fine will do . . . Even backward metric would work.
    Appropriate size drill bit for your tap.
    Bolt with threads all the way to its head and nut.
    A socket that fits over the case head but not the die, usually need a deep well.
    A washer or a stack of assorted washers so the nut doesnt go into the socket.

    Drill and tap case head. Put nut and washer(s) onto bolt. Place socket over case and thread bolt into case through socket. Turn nut along bolt until the case comes out.
    Pretty close to what I did. I strayed away from best practices with a temper tantrim a couple times but did get it. I have a box of goofed cases and rounds as a show and tell for people wanting to learn reloading or for me to remind me why not to do simething. That .300 WBY case with a bolt threaded in it is perfectly placed in such box.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daved View Post
    Still, how do you know if it is dead or not unless you strike it?
    X your fingers and hope for the best probaly doesn't work in this scenerio! Could always try the pellet gun and try and set it off
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    Maybe it was stupid, but last (only so far) time I had a live primer in a case stuck in a reloading die, I got the center shaft out of the die, leaving the sizer ball behind inside the stuck case. I put the die in a vise with the flamethrower end pointed out in the room, put on my shooting headphones and got busy with a screwdriver and hammer.

    I did wake up the little rat sized dog of my neighbor's, but I honestly didn't see any flame shooting out the end of the die either.

    Am I selecting myself out of the gene pool trying this?

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    Quote Originally Posted by swmn View Post
    Maybe it was stupid, but last (only so far) time I had a live primer in a case stuck in a reloading die, I got the center shaft out of the die, leaving the sizer ball behind inside the stuck case. I put the die in a vise with the flamethrower end pointed out in the room, put on my shooting headphones and got busy with a screwdriver and hammer.

    I did wake up the little rat sized dog of my neighbor's, but I honestly didn't see any flame shooting out the end of the die either.

    Am I selecting myself out of the gene pool trying this?
    Hopefully you were wearing good eye protection too. On the gene pool question; by firing that primer off indoors you are contaminating your living space with lead styphnate. I expect some here (there's a few in every crowd) might argue that poses no threat to the health of you and your kids, but I wouldn't do it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by swmn View Post
    Maybe it was stupid, but last (only so far) time I had a live primer in a case stuck in a reloading die, I got the center shaft out of the die, leaving the sizer ball behind inside the stuck case. I put the die in a vise with the flamethrower end pointed out in the room, put on my shooting headphones and got busy with a screwdriver and hammer.

    I did wake up the little rat sized dog of my neighbor's, but I honestly didn't see any flame shooting out the end of the die either.

    Am I selecting myself out of the gene pool trying this?
    Well . . . I'd do it but I was told once that I'm crazy. I'm still here with 10 fingers and toes, 2 eyes and only minor scaring and hearing loss.
     
    If I had the stem out I'd have tryed blowing compressor air in there to pop it out. If that failed I'd likely gear up good and slowly drill a little hole for a screw in the live primer but remember I been warned about my mental shortcomings.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    Well . . . I'd do it but I was told once that I'm crazy. I'm still here with 10 fingers and toes, 2 eyes and only minor scaring and hearing loss.
     
    If I had the stem out I'd have tryed blowing compressor air in there to pop it out. If that failed I'd likely gear up good and slowly drill a little hole for a screw in the live primer but remember I been warned about my mental shortcomings.
    I've set off live primers with a hammer and nail several times.

    The report is surprising since it is so loud, but the primer doesn't even come out of the pocket.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty of the North View Post
    I've set off live primers with a hammer and nail several times.

    The report is surprising since it is so loud, but the primer doesn't even come out of the pocket.

    Smitty of the North
    I have set primers on my anvil ant whacked with a hammer and they make a loud pop. I bet it would come out of the pockit ifin the other end is all shut up in a die though.
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    Normally, I haven't had to resize, but if one does, just remove the primer rod
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