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Thread: a few trapping questions

  1. #1
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    Default a few trapping questions

    hello i am new to trapping and only setting a few traps this year (marten and lynx maybe a couple fox snares) i have been looking at stretchers and all the ones im finding look to big for marten do any of you have plans for making my own. i can make the large stretchers that ive seen at stores but dont know how much smaller to make one for marten. another question (you can pm me this info if you dont want to post open) how do you dispatch of lynx when caught in a leghold without shooting it (the less holes to try to fix the better). one other thing if any of you live in the fairbanks/north pole area i would love to watch you skin a lynx, fox, wolf, or marten i want to make sure if or when i catch one i know exatly how to skin it properly (feet and head) so as not to waste the furs. i have een reading the forums and learning a lot from you guys but need a little more education thank you

    matt

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    Premium Member denalihunter's Avatar
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    Matt,
    I just use Mink boards for stretching marten. Seems to be the right size and works well. You can order plans for making your own off of about any trapping store website. I prefer the wood over the wire, myself so that I can tac them down easier. Your welcome to visit and practice skinning, but I'm far from Fairbanks. Good luck!
    Claude
    Experience Real Alaska! www.alpinecreeklodge.com

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    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
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    Use wood boards instead of wire for sure. If you go to http://www.nafa.ca/wild-fur/resources, there is a link to the fur handling manual. It gives you the dimensions to use to make your own boards for all different critters.

    For marten, a plain old 1x6 works just fine, if I remember right a 1x4 works for the female board. Just rough cut it with a skill saw and then take a hand plane and some sandpaper to smooth it out. The mink boards work for female marten, but are too small IMO for the large male marten we have in alaska.

    Good luck.

  4. #4

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    And make a stop by the fairbanks fur tannery Neil may have stretchers. You can always trace what u need if not.

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    Member AKtrpr's Avatar
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    Matt if you need marten stretchers i can loan you one to use as a pattern, Also I can show you proper skinning techniques and fur put up. And I'm right here in North pole.

    Doug

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    aktrpr thank you very much i will be out of town hunting this weekend ill try to get with you early next week through pm

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    i have another question for some more experienced guys out there. i have been boiling some new traps ive boiled them in water and a water dawn dish soap mix scrubbed them and then reboiled over and over and still cant seem to get all the oil off of them is there some trick that will help me get them clean faster

    thanks
    matt

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    Member AKtrpr's Avatar
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    Boil new traps in water and lye mixture, be careful with the lye, it will remove the oil off of the traps, best to do it outside. when you have boiled the traps instead of lifting traps out of the lye water, overflow the pot to get rid of the oil scum floating on top, this is important if you pull the traps through the scum you have defeated the purpose of boiling the grease, oil off the traps. that is why you should do it outside if your boiling traps for marten, dont go through the trouble, marten aren't trap shy, neither are lynx, ive used and caught both right out of the box. after stting out all winter and using them the oil will wear off.

    Aktrpr

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    Easy and quick way if you aren't married or you can get away with it without her finding out. Stick them in the dish washer with plenty of Cascade. Just make sure you secure all the chains so they don't do damage if they drop into the spinning parts.
    WARNING: Only do this with new trap never with ones that have been dyed previously
    meats meat don't knock it till you try it

  10. #10
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    thanks both of you i got all the oil off the legholds and most of it off the my conibears and since lynx and marten are not trap shy ill put the out as is. next year ill get my traps earlier in the year and have them ready before season starts. once again thanks to everyone for all the advise.

    matt

  11. #11

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    im pretty new myself to trapping on my own knowledge but last year i did the whole process boiled dyed and waxed mostly marten and a fox the fox got taken from some one else, but it did work and take the advive do them outdoors the dye stinks i dont mind the old lady bout killed me this year. i threw my trapps in a pile this summer as told to do by an old guy and let them season.they were kinda rusty not bad being that had all the wax from last year but i heard the rust is what you want smack them with a hammer make sure nothing is seized and i dyed and waxed at the same time this year looked and worked awsome way better then last we will just have to see if the sent is gone being im after a fox next to my house. as for dispatching a lynx or any critter of size i have never done so just heard of clubing them at the top of the neck at the bottom of the skull for me its gunna depend on how well he looks hooked up im kinda on the scared side of one poping out and latching on but in that case i have a small bow im gunna give a shot quiet to . there is also a noose pole but i havent heard much on it just read a lil online dunno if i like that one id feel a lil worse chokeing them out probly take for ever to

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    For dispatch I use a pole with a snare on the end, slip it over their head and lift them up so their feet are off the ground. No blood or fur damage and it's quick, just make sure you use a long enough and strong enough pole lol. Frontiers has marten stretchers and sportsmans has them sometimes as well..............Here in the interior dying and waxing traps isn't neccessary, boil them with spruce boughs for k9's to get rid of the scent otherwise hang them in a dry place over the summer and they will be fine. You can also dip them in a 50% rustoleum and 50% thinner then let them hang and air dry

  13. #13

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    thanks for correcting my thoughts to the pole i would have thought it would take forever. any one know how that would work on releasing a house dog and of course just to hold the teeth away until you free it and not dispatch it lol. i ask because could be very useful to many in the mat su for sure it seems no matter were you go if you can walk there, there are dogs from what i found unfourtanetly for the pet there owners dont relize the threat

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    You can buy a release pole from most trapping supply catalogs or you could make one out of pvc or something, that way you can restrain the dog and keep its head away while you release the trap.

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    I have released more dogs than I care to admit - trapping in IL farm country they are everywhere.
    One trick I learned after a very timid small collie dog about ate me up when I tried to let her go was to carry a heavy coat with me - or use the one I was wearing, talk calmly to the dog and gain its trust as best as you can, then slide its head into the arm - sleeve of the coat from the inside. The dog cannot bite you at all, and it has a somewhat calming effect on fido if it can't see whats going on. I never had one try to hurt me after it was free but I suppose it could happen.
    As for dispatching fox I was taught to pop it across the snout with a tool handle or stout stick which stuns it briefly, grab it behind the head at base of neck with one hand and under the chin with the other - snap it back and its all over....
    Ain't no way I would grab any kind of cat that way and after loosing a bet on a coyote I will never try that again either!
    When asked what state I live in I say "The State of Confusion", better known as IL....

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    With our temps at -20 to -40 I'll keep my parka on plus they're not cheap and I'm not going to let a dog shred my parka, stick with the release pole.....

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    i have another question i got my traps set and will let them sit till monday morning. if i catch a marten in a set should i reset the trap in the same spot or move it to different location? same thing with my lynx sets. on the negative side how long do you let a nonproductive set stay in an spot until you move it to a different one. AKtrpr i tried to pm you but the forum wont let me so ill give you my email mattsearls@gci.net i will give you my phone number through email so you can contact me if you are still willing to allow me to watch, help, and learn how to skin and put fur up. thanks again everyone for your help

    matt

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    no need to move your marten or lynk set after a catch but you will probably have to rebuild your lynk cubby after a catch. I leave my sets for the whole season, animals will start to move especially closer to mating season. If your in a good area just have patience, if not find a different area. It takes time and a lot of work to find a good area so don't get discouraged.

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    Matt-

    If it doesn't work out for you to watch someone, ADF&G put out a great DVD titled "Alaska Guide To Fur Handling". Pretty sure I ordered mine through this website's store. Very informative, and I liked the fact that I could watch it while skinning and rewind / pause / rewatch a bunch of times to make sure I was getting it right before making the cut... it's resulted in a LOT less holes to sew and a higher quality pelt.

  20. #20
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    Matt,

    i emailed you.

    Doug

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