Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 26

Thread: Fabrication ideas for a full cab for Argo

  1. #1
    Member agoyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Over yonder
    Posts
    249

    Default Fabrication ideas for a full cab for Argo

    Custom Aluminum Hard Top 8x8 (10).JPGCustom Aluminum Hard Top 8x8 (9).JPG

    I am looking at building a custom full cab for my Argo Avenger 8x8. I have posted pics of pretty much what I had in mind. I know how to build the frame, my main concern is the windows and doors. I would like to have a fold down windshield if possible, doors with windows on each side, and a door on the rear. I would like to hear/see some of your ideas. What have you done? What would you do different? I cannot weld aluminum, so I was thinking of framing it out of 1x1x1/8 mild steel square tubing. Do you guys think it would be too top heavy or not? I thought about framing up the windshield and doors and bolting lexan to it. A friend of mine on here, BKMAIL, brought up a good point. Lexan scratches easily. I hadn't thought about that. I was thinking more of if a branch hits and shatters my windshield and of the artic conditions cracking my glass. I was also interested in seeing/hearing about gun/bow mounts, baskets, ice chest holders, chain saw holders, etc.. that you guys have or have seen or heard about.

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    3,246

    Default

    My experience with trees and a cab is I would not go a full windshield, a haft windshield would be cheaper than replacing a full windshields. Don't ask how I know.
    Lexan is really bad for scratching, my suggestion is find someone who has a top and see how good or bad it looked after a few years.

    I don't thing a single 1x1x1/8, steel tubing will be strong enough for the posts but it will depend on several factors weight you put on top, trail condition and bracing.

  3. #3
    Member agoyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Over yonder
    Posts
    249

    Default

    Yeah, I might have to go 1 1/4 x 1 1/4. I am afraid it might be too heavy then. I might have to get someone at a boat dealership to fab it up for me or learn how to weld aluminum. I have tigged aluminum before but I don't have a rig and they are mucho deneiro $$$.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    3,246

    Default

    What are they asking for the top in the picture?

  5. #5
    Member agoyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Over yonder
    Posts
    249

    Default

    It was just a pic I found on the web. Its exactly what I want, except with doors. I wanted to see what other people had because the cab you buy from Argo is very very flimsy and cheap made.

  6. #6
    Member agoyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Over yonder
    Posts
    249

    Default

    Anybody have any ideas?

  7. #7
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    11,415

    Default Fabrication ideas for a full cab for Argo

    Do you really need a full hard cab? I would think that building the roof then taking the rig to Johns upholstery in Wasilla would get you a solid hybrid system with good canvas sides that could be rolled up when not needed.

  8. #8

    Default

    I agree with LuJon. If you're really set on a rigid top, I would stick to the framing and top and have the rest made from canvas. There is some really nice/tough material that you can choose from. I've always been steered away from hard tops. Top heavy, cannot quickly be removed. Harder to clear obstructions. Hand saw, even chainsaw work gets old really quick. More unstable sidehilling or in the water. I think gear carried in the machine should be in the tub, maybe stacked a little but definitely not on top. Meat wagon works best for that anyway. A good canvas keeps you dry, very warm, and is quick to remove. Weighs almost nothing. You could even get away with just a half-cab for cheap in just the front if your goal is to stay comfortable. I think that is the only reason to have a top on an 8x8 anyway. With a half-cab you can stay warm but dry-bag or tarp you gear/game in the back, and that way it stays cool too if you do have to carry it in the machine. The picture you posted is really nice. Most that I have seen look similar. Some framing and a flat roof. Seems like the most sturdy ones are made from steel or aluminum. Lots of other materials have been used, but they always look a bit hoky. Then again, I'm okay with hoky hoaky?

  9. #9
    Moderator stid2677's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks Area
    Posts
    7,274

    Default

    My Ox has a cab and safari top, had canvas made for the rear passengers.



    "I refuse to let the things I can't do stop me from doing the things I can"
    Founding Member
    http://www.residenthuntersofalaska.org/

  10. #10
    Member The German's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Palmer, AK.
    Posts
    265

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LuJon View Post
    Do you really need a full hard cab? I would think that building the roof then taking the rig to Johns upholstery in Wasilla would get you a solid hybrid system with good canvas sides that could be rolled up when not needed.
    agoyne----First let me "Qualify" myself before I give you my opinion on your request. My dad bought our first [6-Wheel] Argo in 1967, then after I returned from Viet-Nam in 1971, I purchased my first 8-Wheel Argo, running a 440 Kohler-2 stroke. Fast forward to 2012, my current ride is a 2010 750 HDI-ADM Tranny, Two styles of Tracks, custom carry racks, factory heater w/ defroster, factory soft-top w/ factory fold down windshield w/ elect. wiper.
    So, over the years, I've had as many types and flavors of tops, hard and soft that you can think of. Bottom line, when all the "Smoke" is clear, I've come full-circle right back to what I've described above. As Lujon says, "Do you really need a full hard cab".---NO you don't, and besides, those heavy tops end up De-forming your body shell, and then theirs the guy's that get a top built, and put 200-300lbs up there, "I'M not kidding" and wonder why they just about tipped over, or did tip over on a slight side hill situation. My current design, is that when I'm seated and operating, that any weight of any consequence,--[and i carry quite a bit of fuel and tools with me at all times]-- is all below my shoulder height, again when I'm sitting in the seat. I'm fairly new to this forum, so i don't think i can post any photos, but if your interested, send me an e-mail @ ljunker@prepower.net and I'll forward you some current photos if you like. Take care, and always plan for the worst, remember "Murphy's" just waiting for you to think you got it all figured out.-
    The German

  11. #11
    Member agoyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Over yonder
    Posts
    249

    Default

    Thank you guys for your comments. It was just the information I needed to hear. The only reason I was wanting a full cab was to keep everything dry and to keep all of the snow and leaves, limbs, and crap out.

    Stid, I really like that cab and hopefully I can come up with something like you have.

    LuJon, thanks for the upholstery tip. I will be checking that out.

    The German, email is on the way.

    Thanks to All

  12. #12

    Default

    agoyne,

    I have the same top that you posted and have canvas sides for it. It works great and I love it, very easy to open and closes nice and tight. Im in Anchorage if you ever want to have a look at it.

  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wasilla
    Posts
    489

    Default

    I've also thought about making a rack like that. However after a few moose hunting trips and Caribou trips I don't really see the need for one. I have the vinyl camo cab with fiberglass windshield kit. I have a glass windshield and haven't had any problems crashing through trees a -20. I've seen the racks the Rockdoctor has on his Argos and think that adding a "basket around the rear would be the better option. You can kinda see what im talking aboout in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhCke...m-Gw&index=113

    I put two 6 gal. fuel cans and a large tool box in the bottom floor plan. Than on the sides I can put a small shovel, Chainsaw, extra belts, rope, jack, propane bottles, etc. Than I lay a piece of plywood accros the seats an stack up 5gal of water, a rubbermade tote with all my food and camping supplies. Than I have a backpack with clothing and sleeping bag. Even with all that packed in there, I still had room for two whole caribou.

    The rack would be nice, but again I really think it might make the Argo to top heavy. If your hunting on flat land than you'll probably be fine, however i've taken mine into some steep terrain and liked the fact that I had extra weight in the bottom.

    Here's a page of inspiration you might not have seen yet.
    http://allseasonsargo.com/argo_innovators.htm

  14. #14

    Default

    FYI, maybe old news, but argo (maybe just Adair argo?) carries a nice looking bed-liner that appears to fully over-lap the sides of the upper tub. You could then tarp or tonneau-cover the rear cargo area. It would keep all the crap (that would have fallen in the rear) out of the tub- not to mention keep cargo dry and cool. Can't really accomplish that with a full rear enclosure. Adair argo has a pic under their "accessories" tab.

  15. #15
    Member agoyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Over yonder
    Posts
    249

    Default

    Bork, I would like to see it.

    Yep gokorn1, I like the way you pack! All that stuff and then 2 bou, dang! That is exactly what I want on the allseasonsargo page. The first one, top left. I would like a rack off of the back as well. I carry ALOT of stuff when I strike out somewhere.

    Yeah Buzz, I saw that bed liner a month or so on there. That is pretty cool.

    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz View Post
    FYI, maybe old news, but argo (maybe just Adair argo?) carries a nice looking bed-liner that appears to fully over-lap the sides of the upper tub. You could then tarp or tonneau-cover the rear cargo area. It would keep all the crap (that would have fallen in the rear) out of the tub- not to mention keep cargo dry and cool. Can't really accomplish that with a full rear enclosure. Adair argo has a pic under their "accessories" tab.

  16. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wasilla
    Posts
    489

    Default

    There is a guy on Craigslist offering hisservices for welding. I was going to sit down with him and draw something up, but I think im going to spend my play money elsewhere


    http://anchorage.craigslist.org/rvs/3519173074.html

  17. #17
    Member agoyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Over yonder
    Posts
    249

    Default

    gorkorn,

    Let me know how that works out.

  18. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    3,293

    Default

    With a plastic roof, any windshield you prefer, and a roll cage? Having a soft cab made at an upholstery shop is economical and can be darn nice. Here's my Ranger with a soft cab. Zipper doors and windows. Velcro and snaps where it needs them. It seals better than you'd think. Sorry for the picture quality but it's all I have at the moment.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  19. #19
    Member Dirtofak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Beaver Creek
    Posts
    2,267

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by agoyne View Post
    gorkorn,

    Let me know how that works out.
    If you haven't got it done yet, Try Mikes welding in Sterling.
    I don't mean to sound bitter, cold, or cruel, but I am, so that's how it comes out.
    Bill Hicks

  20. #20

    Default

    http://alumineyman.webs.com/
    Hello all,
    I am the owner/operator of http://alumineyman.webs.com/ and also new to the "Argo" world. I recently purchased a 2010 frontier 8x8. My Plan was to buy one bare-bones with nothing on it and I can add whatever I needed to to it. Plans change so when this opportunity presented itself I jumped all over it. It came with the brush guard, soft top and the fold down windshield. And so far the only thing I have done to it was installed a 4k Warn winch and a rack. My original plan was to build a frame to incorporate the windshield and then just get button on "sections" to go all the way around. It All worked out. I'm kinda happy that I didn't do it like that. For one, I shaved some weight off. Not a whole lot since this rack I just got done with making weighs less that 30 lbs. I plan on having two lawn chairs up there spotting for moose as well as shuttling "supplies" to and from our cabin. And another reason being you can always unbolt this rack and still have your soft top for shelter if need be, for any reason. In the pictures I'm going to try and upload on here there is no floor to the platform yet (I took the pictures while she was still hot... Lol). I plan on installing either aluminum expanded (about 10 lbs worth) or just a piece of plywood with Thompsons on it?? Not sure yet. I hardly ever get on here, about once every 6 months it seems.
    And questions or if you you have any advice or even just wanna talk"Argo" than please feel free to call. (907)715-2007.
    Jason

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •