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Thread: Motor Lift for 19 foot Grumman Freighter

  1. #1
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    Default Motor Lift for 19 foot Grumman Freighter

    Anyone know where I can get one? New or used. I'm in Anchorage. Thanks

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    I don't think there is anywhere left that you can go plunk your money down and order one.

    Some people have old, no longer used ones laying around, but this is rare.

    Best bet is to make it, or hire a guy to make it.

    Also, decide on what type you need, maybe the old jackass design with the big lever; there's a reason that many old timers run with this outfit.
    Or you can choose a simpler design that allow you to manually raise/lower the transom while there is no motor mounted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyfish View Post
    Anyone know where I can get one? New or used. I'm in Anchorage. Thanks
    You may already be aware of this, but John Klingel sold his plans/etc. to a fellow who works in N. Pole at a welding shop. He was making them for a while, but I read that he became too busy to continue. I'm not sure that you couldn't twist his arm with some form of legal bribery, encouraging him to take on 'an isolated case of Good Samaritanism,' but I'm in no position to guess at the likely outcome of such an inquiry, either.

    I do know that a few years back, I took him a slightly tweaked J. Klingel lift (a nearly-ancient original from about 1975), and he re-configured it a bit, re-welded it in the few necessary places, and got it back to me. (I -STILL- need to paint that darned thing... Though it's holding up o.k. for now...)

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    A couple of years back I did try contacting that guy that bought the plans, forget his name at the moment, but he never returned my calls. OK does anyone know a source for a schematic of the jackass rigs? I have a built up transom right now, and most of the time it's ok, but I think it's human nature to seek better tools. In this case they are tools from the past.

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    Yes, his jigs went to Pete Weaver of NP. John should have contact info. I used to.

    An alternative is the simpler kind (like I have) of lift. If you're not a wood/boat-worker I know a guy in Anchorage that very likely would make one of those for you, but he'd probably work by the hour. (His work is very good.)

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    Hi FamilyMan...thank you...did a search and did see your bolt adjustable lift. I actually copied you for the one I'm using now. I think I would like to go with the lever lift system.

    I did find the link again to Pete: Pete Weaver in Fairbanks has the original Klingel (sp?) design now and if you're serious that's where you need to go. He's more a welder guy than a computer or phone guy, and is hard to get ahold of; he works at a welding shop in FBKS. (don't have the number right now). Does someone else?

    I'll see if I can't track down his number. Also I saw that a Mike at the Boat House in Fbks has a lead on a newer version. Will give him a call this week too.

    Too much flooding and debris this year to make moose season fun this year. How'd you do?

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    Member tboehm's Avatar
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    anyone have a few pictures that you can share of one of the lifts? Do they make them out of steel or aluminum?
    Semper Fi and God Bless

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    Just an update....Mike at BoatHouse does not have any and won't be getting anymore due to very little demand. He had told me the ones he had last year were 20 pounds...sounds like aluminum to me.

    Forum member Sid is going to let me photograph his and take some measurements. I might be able to fab one up once I get the workings in my head !
    Would be cool if one could make one out of aluminum...weight wise

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    All of the ones I am aware of are made from steel. Square tubing for the long members along the gunnels with angle iron for bracing of the transom mounting plate, and round tubing/bars for the cross pieces that need to rotate as the lift goes up/down. The design from Fairbanks are the style we used, but we beefed them up a bit to add to the strength. Right now, we are running with one of each since I just picked up a canoe that came with one of the older style lifts. It is definitely a bit on the lighter duty side, but worked fine. It may just be that ours are overkill. Haven't broken either one, so may never know for sure....

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    have used the lifts for a long time an yes they can be made out of Alum. but it will be a lot weeker than steel , what ever you do remember that there
    is different ways to install the lift an some are better than others you should be able to lift the motor by useing one finger force an not have the water boil over the transom when under 3/4 to full speed, it can be dun beleave me , it is in how you install it the frist time because you don't want to to drill more holes than to have to an once it is installed you won't change it , SID

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    Default Transom mounted lift.

    Just bumped into the welder I had making my transom mount lifts. He can spin up a batch if there is some interest.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Curious if any of the sailboat motor lifts could be adpated for use....

    611355e1457f6ada1dec478d02f0cd8b35c42a1.jpg

  13. #13

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    The kicker bracket would not be very stable side by side and would make the motor seem heavier than normal because it sticks so far back from the transom. Thinking about making few of these this summer. DSCF1420.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boud'arc View Post
    The kicker bracket would not be very stable side by side and would make the motor seem heavier than normal because it sticks so far back from the transom. Thinking about making few of these this summer. DSCF1420.jpg
    Very nice. Avoiding putting weight rearward is even more important on a canoe where you're already exceeding the motor size above the mfgr's recommendation.

    Have you solved the problem some lifts have, of the motor raising itself when at WOT in deep water?

  15. #15

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    Familyman,
    I didn't solve the problem intentionally but I think so. The Klingle style lifts are free floating with only the weight of the motor holding the lift down. The sliding mechanism on my lift creates enough friction from the forward movement that it pretty much stays in place unless you assist it with the handle up or down. Doesn't take much pressure. I still need to put more hours on it before I can say for sure. I also need to figure out just how long the handle needs to be. Hope to test it more up 20 mile like Sid says but without worrying about dumping Mainer's boy and the dog. I drew DC480 this year maybe you can tell me how to dodge the rocks.

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    Very nice again on the lift design. Mr. Klingle is here on these forums - as the legend of lifts here in Alaska I'd love to hear his analysis.

    About 20 mile, I might very well be along on that outing; I'm ready to get mine wet..... like now. OK, soon.

    So far as dodging the rocks? No way. But I sure as heck can help show you how to find them all. Each of us have our own little gift, and that appears to be mine. Strong hulls & motors without shear pins + moderate speed will prevail. You don't mind painting a few river rocks the same color as your hull, do you?

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    Thinking about making few of these this summer. DSCF1420.jpg[/QUOTE]


    If you do make a few this summer and are interested in selling one- I am very interested!
    BEE

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    I can tell you about the lenght a little bit it depends where you stand when running you want the handles even with you , do not reach back it will kill you on a long trip the levers will help to ballance you also when standing . have you figured out how to stop the water from boiling over the transom in the area of the motor . it happendsat 3/4 to full speed Sid

  19. #19

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    Never noticed it boiling over Sid but I haven't run it much at top end. I'll test it with some water buckets to keep from dumping some innocent passenger. Not worried about the lift just the driver. I may have cut the handle too short or I need to find the sweet spot bend. Thinking about a new revised edition that incorporates some plywood to drop more weight and make the initial height adjustable.

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    where this is a 19 Grum when you stand an your knees are at the horizonal support across the canoe you want every thing beside you not behind you
    what way you can see in front of you an run when you set down you can reach the handles still an when running stright all handles in the canoe
    in deep wateryou set down but when in small streams you stand so you can see in front . you want a long fuel horse sogas tank is as fat forward as can be in front of the passeager feet with a little extra so when you are loaded it wont' be pinched or ripped of when you turn
    there is a small proble with a long fuel line that is easy to fix call me 907-677-9043 Anchorage can expalne easyer that type [ not good at it ]

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