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Thread: New Outboard Do's and Dont's

  1. #1
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    Default New Outboard Do's and Dont's

    I just got a brand new 2011 Yamaha F115 Four Stroke. It is a huge investment for me and I want to take care of it the right way.
    Besides whats in the owners manual about the break in period, what recommendations do you guys have for breaking in a new motor in late September? I'm in Anchorage so I'll probably have to head out to Big Lake for the first three hours on the motor or the Downtown Port if its really nice out(not likely).

    Thanks ahead for the help!

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    Quote Originally Posted by wingshooter12g View Post
    I just got a brand new 2011 Yamaha F115 Four Stroke. It is a huge investment for me and I want to take care of it the right way.
    Besides whats in the owners manual about the break in period, what recommendations do you guys have for breaking in a new motor in late September? I'm in Anchorage so I'll probably have to head out to Big Lake for the first three hours on the motor or the Downtown Port if its really nice out(not likely).
    You answered it in your post IMO. I would follow the break in period to a T. Many people like to "baby" their motors and never run them at WOT. It is my understanding that this is an integral part of the break in period. It is necessary to get the rings to seat properly. You also want to make sure that you are propped correctly. The manual states that the recommended WOT RPMs should be between 5000-6000. Most of the techs I have spoken with would like to see you in the 5500-6000 range. I routinely run mine up to 6K for a minute or two just to blow the carbon out. The kids like it too. They like the sound of the twin F250s.

    What are you pushing with this new motor?
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    18" Weldcraft

    The Owners Manual States:
    1)For first hour of operation run engine at 2000 rpm or approximately half throttle
    2)For second hour of operation run engine at 3000 rpm or 3/4 throttle
    3)For the next eight hours, avoid continuous operation at full throttle for more than five min at a time.
    4) After the first ten hours operate the engine normally

    So does that mean that after the first two hours, I can run it normally as long as I don't go full throttle? I never really go full throttle anyway, so I guess that's what it sounds like.

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    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingshooter12g View Post
    18" Weldcraft

    The Owners Manual States:
    1)For first hour of operation run engine at 2000 rpm or approximately half throttle
    2)For second hour of operation run engine at 3000 rpm or 3/4 throttle
    3)For the next eight hours, avoid continuous operation at full throttle for more than five min at a time.
    4) After the first ten hours operate the engine normally

    So does that mean that after the first two hours, I can run it normally as long as I don't go full throttle? I never really go full throttle anyway, so I guess that's what it sounds like.
    That 115 should be a great match for that size weldcraft. I was told that it is important to run it at full throttle (less than 5 minutes at a time) after the second hour to ensure that the rings seat. After the second hour of break in I just varied the throttle for the remaining hours of break in. You might give Chad at Deweys a call, too. He is a great tech.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Member akdeweyj's Avatar
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    With my new DT150 Suzuki, I was told RPM variety was the best approach to seat the rings & not to run the OB at the same RPM for longer than 5 minutes at a time during the 10 hr break-in period. Something like get up on step & don't exceed the max RPM for the stage of break-in you were in - 2500 RPM for 3-5 minutes; 4000 RPM for 3-5 minutes, etc. Kinda boring puttering around, but I got to see alot of Big Lake scenery while I got my time in.

    Quote Originally Posted by wingshooter12g View Post
    18" Weldcraft

    The Owners Manual States:
    1)For first hour of operation run engine at 2000 rpm or approximately half throttle
    2)For second hour of operation run engine at 3000 rpm or 3/4 throttle
    3)For the next eight hours, avoid continuous operation at full throttle for more than five min at a time.
    4) After the first ten hours operate the engine normally

    So does that mean that after the first two hours, I can run it normally as long as I don't go full throttle? I never really go full throttle anyway, so I guess that's what it sounds like.
    2007 24ft NorthRiver OS
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    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    The Yamaha F115 is my favorite Yamaha of all time! Reliable and easy on fuel (sounds good when run hard). My F150 being new has been prone to ethanol water issue, it is easily remedied but even with new annually water fuel separators, the alarm on the control box has gone off a lot, and it is caused by water in the fuel at the water fuel separator in the engine cowl. It is a clear plastic canister with a float ring. When floating that ring causes an alarm to go of when your motor is running in neutral. I have received a few calls from my friends with the new F115 and F150 and F225s in new boats who get this alarm come on while out on the water. So beware and informed. I now run the Marine Stabil for Ethanol (blue) and that really helps.

    Prop her to reach 6,000 RPMs and run it at 80% of that speed as cruise 4,800. You wont hurt it 4200-4,800.

    Enjoy her.

    Sobie2

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    Quote Originally Posted by wingshooter12g View Post
    18" Weldcraft

    The Owners Manual States:
    1)For first hour of operation run engine at 2000 rpm or approximately half throttle
    2)For second hour of operation run engine at 3000 rpm or 3/4 throttle
    3)For the next eight hours, avoid continuous operation at full throttle for more than five min at a time.
    4) After the first ten hours operate the engine normally

    So does that mean that after the first two hours, I can run it normally as long as I don't go full throttle? I never really go full throttle anyway, so I guess that's what it sounds like.
    If your boat is plowing water at 2000 or 3000 rpms, that is not good break in load condition for the engine IMO, particularly for a full hour. Like an earlier post, rpm variation helps but keep it out of the lugging rpm range. Running up to full rpm after the initial 2 hour break in will also help. Babying the engine during break in will glaze the cylinders not allowing the rings to seat properly.

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    Sounds good. Taking off of work a little early to head to Big Lake. Should be a good day for it.

    Thanks for the help guys. Might try trolling for some trout while I'm at it.

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    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
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    I'm jealous. I wish I had the cash right now to put a nice outboard on my boat. I'll say that up front...

    I've always wondered: Wouldnt it be to the manufacturers and customers benefit to perform the break in running in the factory so that you take the dummy out of the loop? (no reference to wingshooter or anyone else). Just seems like it makes sense. Sell a product that is good to go from the get go???

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    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    dkwarthog,

    Evinrude ETECs claim you can go all out without any break in... but I have not heard any good things about ETECs in Alaska. I hear more negative experiences than positive ones here.

    But they do claim no break in period.

    Sobie2

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    Water cooled 4-strokes don't concern me for break-in like 2-strokes, especially air cooled 2-strokes. But these new motors have cylinder technology our old 2-strokes never dreamed of. They don't seem to need any break-in. No high initial temps, no initial high oil consumption, etc. My 4-stroke is a factory jet. No options for babying that motor. Start it and twist the throttle to the stop. Back it off a little and go like hell. Runs great.

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