Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Audio Alarm for Bilge Pumps

  1. #1
    Member jrogers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,539

    Default Audio Alarm for Bilge Pumps

    I have three bilge pumps in my boat on three switches. They all have an 'auto' position with float switches. When (if) they go on, a light goes on in the switch. I would like to add an audio alarm to this. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions on what to use? My old boat had something like this, and it was a very small device that was very load and high pitched. I would like to do something similar. I think I will have to have three of these, unless there is some way to isolate the switched with a diode or something. Functionally I would be fine if a single alarm sounded if any of them actuated.

    Jim
    2009 Seawolf 31'
    www.seawolfmarine.com
    Fully Loaded

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    3,246

    Default

    It fairly easy to do go to Frigid North or Radio Shack and pick up a 12v Piezo buzzers/transducer and 3-1amp >50v diodes and wire them into your boat. The diodes act like a one way valves.

    The cathode (line on diode) side of each diode go to red wires of the buzzer. The anode side (no line) of diode, #1 diode go to bilge pump sw #1, #2 diode to #2 bilge sw #2 etc.

    If this does not make sense email me.

  3. #3

    Default

    My boat has 4 separate bilge pumps mounted in 3 different locations. The fore and aft pumps are conventionally wired, with the usual switches and lights (no alarms). What I think of as my "main" bilge pump is located in the engine room sump, and is actually 2 different bilge pumps plus a high-water alarm. Here's how that is set up:

    Down low in the sump is the first "everyday" bilge pump, with standard switch and light set-up. It kicks off and on as needed; no big deal. Mounted about 2 inches above that first pump is a second pump with its own water-contact switch. This is the "high water" pump, and will only kick on if the water level has risen above the point where the first pump can keep up with it. There is an audible alarm with a "Silence" switch associated with this secondary pump. When you hear the alarm, it means the second pump has kicked on, and the first one either can't keep up with the flow, or has failed for some reason.

    Mounted about 2 inches above the secondary pump is a water-activated switch that sounds a very loud, very obnoxious buzzer at the same time that a red light mounted prominently on the dash illuminates. If the water gets high enough to trip this switch--and ring the buzzer and turn on the red light--it means that both the primary and secondary bilge pumps are running or have failed, and the water is still rising. There is no shut-off switch for this high-water alarm; if it's tripped, we'd better be launching the lifeboat!

    All the bilge pump switches have the new water-contact switches, rather than the old float switches. To test them, just moisten your thumb and index finger, and touch the contacts.

    The power source for the various pumps are evenly split between the starting bank and the house bank, on the theory that if one bank is dead we still have a backup source from the other bank.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    3,246

    Default

    Very well thought out system. I like the idea of using two difference batteries.

    I don't know how long the buzzer sounds off, if it a problem you could add one of two difference circuit. One circuit would make the alarm light blink instead of a constant red light. The 2nd circuit is a timer that will turn on a buzzer back on, if you have the silents switch in the “on” position for say 5 min. reminding you to reset the switch and you still have a problem.

  5. #5
    Member jrogers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,539

    Default

    Thanks for the info. It all makes sense; I will put it on my list of fall projects.
    2009 Seawolf 31'
    www.seawolfmarine.com
    Fully Loaded

  6. #6
    Member AKBassking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SE Alaska-Summer Columbia River-Winter
    Posts
    2,007

    ALASKAN SEA-DUCTION
    1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
    MMSI# 338131469
    Blog: http://alaskanseaduction.blogspot.com/

  7. #7

    Default

    [QUOTE=AKBassking;1167216]Something like this?

    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...gh+Water+alarm

    [/QUOTE

    We just installed one of these system and I'd suggest going to an Aqualarm instead. Here's a link.
    http://www.aqualarm.net/comerus/stor...?idCategory=54

    The rule buzzer is on anytime the pump is on which would be annoying if you have a slow leak. I have the aqualarm on my charter boat and when in Auto mode the red light will come on but the alarm will only come on if the pump is running for more then 2 minutes.

  8. #8
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer
    Posts
    4,229

    Default

    I've got two bilge pumps in my boat plus a high water alarm. The best thing to do is just go and open a hatch or two and look into the bilge and take a look. I'm always looking in my bilge its not because i've got leaks its just a habit. One thing i will be adding to the boat this winter is a "crash valve" set up on the raw water intake so i can use the engine's raw water pump if i really need it to keep up with a bad leak or hole.Crashvalve1.jpg

    Alaska Shrimp Pots

    Rigid & Folding Shrimp & Crab Pots
    Electra Dyne Pot Haulers
    Ropes, Buoys, Bait
    alaskashrimppots.com
    akshrimppots@mtaonline.net
    907 775 1692

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    I've got two bilge pumps in my boat plus a high water alarm. The best thing to do is just go and open a hatch or two and look into the bilge and take a look. I'm always looking in my bilge its not because i've got leaks its just a habit. One thing i will be adding to the boat this winter is a "crash valve" set up on the raw water intake so i can use the engine's raw water pump if i really need it to keep up with a bad leak or hole.Crashvalve1.jpg
    Great idea Steve but you can go one step further as I did on the recent repower and use a garden hose fitting on the ball valve side to also flush the engines. I'll try to get a good pic but you get the idea on the Space savings post but it's barely visible. I have a tee and two ball valve before the strainers. One opens the raw water the other opens for flushing but can be used as an emergency bilge as well by closing the raw water valve.

  10. #10
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer
    Posts
    4,229

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Halibutgrove View Post
    Great idea Steve but you can go one step further as I did on the recent repower and use a garden hose fitting on the ball valve side to also flush the engines. I'll try to get a good pic but you get the idea on the Space savings post but it's barely visible. I have a tee and two ball valve before the strainers. One opens the raw water the other opens for flushing but can be used as an emergency bilge as well by closing the raw water valve.
    yup another good addition but i'd rather be sucking water in a emergency thu a 2" hose than a garden hose !! I might go a set further and hook up one of these Pacer pumps on the boat, we use them on the bowpickers for net wash pumps and they will fill a 55gal drum in about 2 minutes.
    pacer pump.jpg

    Alaska Shrimp Pots

    Rigid & Folding Shrimp & Crab Pots
    Electra Dyne Pot Haulers
    Ropes, Buoys, Bait
    alaskashrimppots.com
    akshrimppots@mtaonline.net
    907 775 1692

  11. #11

    Default

    Great idea on the crash valve, Steve. Had never thought or heard of one before. Guess I can add that on my to do list for my gillnetter. Thanks for the tip.

  12. #12
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer
    Posts
    4,229

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gunner View Post
    Great idea on the crash valve, Steve. Had never thought or heard of one before. Guess I can add that on my to do list for my gillnetter. Thanks for the tip.
    I had one set up on my bowpicker, but instead of using the raw water pump it was plumbed into the jabsco washdown pump that was mounted next to the engine.

    Alaska Shrimp Pots

    Rigid & Folding Shrimp & Crab Pots
    Electra Dyne Pot Haulers
    Ropes, Buoys, Bait
    alaskashrimppots.com
    akshrimppots@mtaonline.net
    907 775 1692

  13. #13

    Default

    [QUOTE=potbuilder;1167582]yup another good addition but i'd rather be sucking water in a emergency thu a 2" hose than a garden hose !! I might go a set further and hook up one of these Pacer pumps on the boat, we use them on the bowpickers for net wash pumps and they will fill a 55gal drum in about 2 minutes.

    What size pump you running that requires a 2" hose? Most inboard engines I've seen utilize a 1-1/14" Jabsco/Johnson impeller style. They pump about 15gal/min @ 1500rpm and more at higher rpm. In combination with a good 2000 gallon bilge pump you could pump out a lot of water. If you really want to pump allot of water, AIH sells a decent 1" water pump that weighs around 20lbs and pumps 40gpm. It worked well for our load test and it could be used to help another vessel if needed. Hopefully you're never in a situation to ever need to use it.

  14. #14
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer
    Posts
    4,229

    Default

    [QUOTE=Halibutgrove;1168423]
    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    yup another good addition but i'd rather be sucking water in a emergency thu a 2" hose than a garden hose !! I might go a set further and hook up one of these Pacer pumps on the boat, we use them on the bowpickers for net wash pumps and they will fill a 55gal drum in about 2 minutes.

    What size pump you running that requires a 2" hose? Most inboard engines I've seen utilize a 1-1/14" Jabsco/Johnson impeller style. They pump about 15gal/min @ 1500rpm and more at higher rpm. In combination with a good 2000 gallon bilge pump you could pump out a lot of water. If you really want to pump allot of water, AIH sells a decent 1" water pump that weighs around 20lbs and pumps 40gpm. It worked well for our load test and it could be used to help another vessel if needed. Hopefully you're never in a situation to ever need to use it.
    I had a hydraulic powered 2" Pacer pump on my bowpicker for a net washdown, when you see the water spraying out the bows of the bowpickers thats what we all used, 2" size will pump 150 GPM and 3" size will pump 200 GPM. A belt driven Jabsco 1-1/4" pump puts out aprox 60/gpm. Those gas pumps are nice but 40 gal/min ain't that much water moving when the you know what hits the fan. Those pacer pumps are available with a nice 5hp honda motor on them and thats what i'd like to have.


    Port GPM at 1800 RPM Belt/Pulley

    JA 11860-0005 JA 11860-0006 JA 11860-0007 1" 26 gal/min
    JA 11870-0005 JA 11870-0006 JA 11870-0007 1 1/4" 62 gal/min
    JA 18330-0000 JA 18330-0001 JA 18330-0002 2" 83 gal/min

    Alaska Shrimp Pots

    Rigid & Folding Shrimp & Crab Pots
    Electra Dyne Pot Haulers
    Ropes, Buoys, Bait
    alaskashrimppots.com
    akshrimppots@mtaonline.net
    907 775 1692

  15. #15
    New member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Eagle River
    Posts
    2,022

    Default

    I installed two pumps on my boat and a audio alram. The alarm is separate from the pumps served by its own float, there is no need to have the alarm wired into the existing pump circuit unless that is what you wish, but as said above, you would have to listen the alarm sounding while using the pump .

    The rule alarm and switch linked above is what I used. I have a 2000gph pump on an auto switch and a 800gph pump on a manual switch, then the alarm on its own circuit.

    If you do not want the alarm as an independent circuit and do not want to listen to it sound while a pump is active, you could wire a toggle between the ground for the alarm to cancel the alarm while the pump is active.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •