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Thread: Downrigger weights coated or not?

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Default Downrigger weights coated or not?

    So recently I bought the mold to make 10# fish shaped downrigger weights to add to the jig and weight mold collection I already own.
    My dad gave me some nice downriggers to use last year and I plan to test them out.
    I see Cabelas and other places sell a version with a rubberized type coating.
    What is your preference in downrigger weights coated or uncoated? I know I can get dip-it rubberized coating in a spray can and would consider trying this out.
    If I don't coat them I plan on painting them. If I paint them what colors should I use?
    Bright colors so they are easier to see or fish like colors for more fish attraction?
    Thanks in advance.
    Chris
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

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    Member akjeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kasilofchrisn View Post
    So recently I bought the mold to make 10# fish shaped downrigger weights to add to the jig and weight mold collection I already own.
    My dad gave me some nice downriggers to use last year and I plan to test them out.
    I see Cabelas and other places sell a version with a rubberized type coating.
    What is your preference in downrigger weights coated or uncoated? I know I can get dip-it rubberized coating in a spray can and would consider trying this out.
    If I don't coat them I plan on painting them. If I paint them what colors should I use?
    Bright colors so they are easier to see or fish like colors for more fish attraction?
    Thanks in advance.
    Chris
    http://www.protroll.com/books/?id=5&p_id=3

    I have been experimenting with The Black Box. In theory you want a good voltage and that is controlled by the box, but your boat may already have a good voltage. This section on coated vs non-coated downrigger weights seems to be a no brainer.

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    Member hoose35's Avatar
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    I don't like the coated ones. The rubber on mine got all chewed up and started peeling off. I guess from the times I have bumped bottom with it.
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  4. #4

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    I run braid on my downriggers with great success. It eliminates the voltage concerns, makes crimps obsolete, doesn't fray and cut/stick me and I get a lot more line on the spools.

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    Coated or not coated is a matter of preference. Plastic boats like coated better but if you use the caddies to hold them, not a problem. Whatever you do when you mold your weights though, use stainless steel loops. The Cannon weights use them and the others I have are regular steel that corrode/wear to the point you need to get another after a couple of seasons, or fall off before you do.

  6. #6
    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies. The eyelets for these that I got from the mold maker are brass. I prefer stainless but the mold maker does not sell stainless ones. I suppose I could do a quick online search to see if anybody makes a stainless eye in the right size.
    I would at least like to paint them if I decide not to rubber coat them.
    Any color ideas?
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
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    Paint'em like a nice silvery salmon so the sharks can see them!!

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    There's a bit of a fad ongoing here in BC with glo balls-Yes I'm not making this up people swear that glo-in-the-dark cannonballs attract more fish.

    OTOH in a place like Alaska which for whatever reason seems to have more Sharks than BC I wonder about.

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    Paint'em like a nice silvery salmon so the sharks can see them!!
    Would adding silver reflective tape help as well Steve?
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

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  10. #10
    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whalebreath View Post
    There's a bit of a fad ongoing here in BC with glo balls-Yes I'm not making this up people swear that glo-in-the-dark cannonballs attract more fish.

    OTOH in a place like Alaska which for whatever reason seems to have more Sharks than BC I wonder about.

    I do have some glow in the dark paint. A powder paint in glow white and glow orange that would look nice but be hard to apply and a rattle can glow paint. I had some good Vinyl super Glow but I would have to see if it is still good.
    Thanks for the idea!
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    Member DRIFTER_016's Avatar
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    One of my most productive cannon balls is a black coated ball with silver prisim tape on the sides of the fin (it's a round ball).
    I also have orange coated and un-coated un-painted cannon balls. They all work.

    I think glow would be cool to try though, so make me one up when you do Chris.

  12. #12
    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRIFTER_016 View Post
    One of my most productive cannon balls is a black coated ball with silver prisim tape on the sides of the fin (it's a round ball).
    I also have orange coated and un-coated un-painted cannon balls. They all work.

    I think glow would be cool to try though, so make me one up when you do Chris.
    Sure thing Dave. Just one? lol
    I will bring it to you when you are here for palooza.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kasilofchrisn View Post
    Would adding silver reflective tape help as well Steve?
    Yup and a hollow in it for a turkey baster full of scent/blood would be a added plus! Fill a turkey baster with scent/blood and as it goes deeper the water pressure will dribble out the scent and lead the toothy guys right to it!

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    Yup and a hollow in it for a turkey baster full of scent/blood would be a added plus! Fill a turkey baster with scent/blood and as it goes deeper the water pressure will dribble out the scent and lead the toothy guys right to it!

    I was thinking I could have Mike machine out a cavity in the finished lead and then just add a blood soaked sponge.
    I seriously doubt though I will have to worry about sharks stealing my 10# weights. If they did it would surely give him a gut ache tryng to digest that.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

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  15. #15
    Member DRIFTER_016's Avatar
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    Chris
    I had kings hit my black coated/prism taped cannon ball plenty of times.
    Pretty strange to hear a thud, watch the rigger arm bounce and the cable swing back.
    And no it wasn't the bottom. Fishing deep water with riggers set in the top 45'.

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    Always wondered what that was..thanks for the info. Makes perfect sense now..lol

    Quote Originally Posted by DRIFTER_016 View Post
    Chris
    I had kings hit my black coated/prism taped cannon ball plenty of times.
    Pretty strange to hear a thud, watch the rigger arm bounce and the cable swing back.
    And no it wasn't the bottom. Fishing deep water with riggers set in the top 45'.
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  17. #17

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    When I had a boat on L.Ontario, I used to spray my herbie weights white with green backs, my round balls either green or white. Did it make a differance, I thought so, but who really knows.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by akjeff View Post
    http://www.protroll.com/books/?id=5&p_id=3

    I have been experimenting with The Black Box. In theory you want a good voltage and that is controlled by the box, but your boat may already have a good voltage. This section on coated vs non-coated downrigger weights seems to be a no brainer.
    They have a product to sell..

    The reality is that good fishermen catch lots of kings, and poor fishermen don't catch many.

    I break just about every "rule" they have, and I'm really tough to out fish when it comes to kings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fish Witch View Post
    Coated or not coated is a matter of preference. Plastic boats like coated better but if you use the caddies to hold them, not a problem. Whatever you do when you mold your weights though, use stainless steel loops. The Cannon weights use them and the others I have are regular steel that corrode/wear to the point you need to get another after a couple of seasons, or fall off before you do.
    It really pisses me off that people use mild steel loops instead of stainess steel. I have upgraded a bunch of balls to stainless steel by milling out the mild steel loop with a 1/4" end mill, dropping in a loop of 1/8" stainless wire, and then soldering the ring in place with an oxy-acetylene torch. My price to fishing buddies and their friends is one six pack per ball.

    Big_E

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