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Thread: Wallas Cook Top Heater

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    Member JR2's Avatar
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    Default Wallas Cook Top Heater

    Just got back from a weekend on PWS and has some problems with my Wallas cook top. Not sure on the model number but its one of those you close the lid and it tries to heat the cabin. Mine kept shutting down while trying to boil a pot of water. It would get the water hot and then shut down. We would cycle the power via the switch and it might work or it might not. I would then go pull the fuse to reset the heater and it would work for a while again. Never had any problems letting it run all night with the top down but trying to boil a pot of water was not working. I am thinking either they were never meant to boil a big pot of water to make pasta or there is something wrong... .anyone have any ideas?

    John
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

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    Quote Originally Posted by JR2 View Post
    Just got back from a weekend on PWS and has some problems with my Wallas cook top. Not sure on the model number but its one of those you close the lid and it tries to heat the cabin. Mine kept shutting down while trying to boil a pot of water. It would get the water hot and then shut down. We would cycle the power via the switch and it might work or it might not. I would then go pull the fuse to reset the heater and it would work for a while again. Never had any problems letting it run all night with the top down but trying to boil a pot of water was not working. I am thinking either they were never meant to boil a big pot of water to make pasta or there is something wrong... .anyone have any ideas?

    John
    JR2

    Looks like a textbook case of low voltage - the Wallace stoves are very sensitive to voltage drops and they will shut down. I had problems with mine until I re-wired directly from the stove to the battery and I upped the wire gauge several notches -- never a problem since. Also, how old is the battery that you are running off of?

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    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kodiak_hunter View Post
    JR2

    Looks like a textbook case of low voltage - the Wallace stoves are very sensitive to voltage drops and they will shut down.
    I agree. What kind of battery setup are you using for a house bank? Are you running kerosene or diesel?
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR2 View Post
    Just got back from a weekend on PWS and has some problems with my Wallas cook top. Not sure on the model number but its one of those you close the lid and it tries to heat the cabin. Mine kept shutting down while trying to boil a pot of water. It would get the water hot and then shut down. We would cycle the power via the switch and it might work or it might not. I would then go pull the fuse to reset the heater and it would work for a while again. Never had any problems letting it run all night with the top down but trying to boil a pot of water was not working. I am thinking either they were never meant to boil a big pot of water to make pasta or there is something wrong... .anyone have any ideas?

    John
    If it is low voltage power, you should have a flashing switch lamp. You might check that. I find it odd that it would run all night, but shut off while trying to boil water. Give the guys at Scan Marine a call down in Washington, they are the only authorized US repair center for Wallas.
    My unit is 15 years old and I just had them service it for me. Took it out over Memorial Day weekend and it ran like a champ. It was also shutting off after about 5 minutes of run time. Good luck!

  5. #5

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    I also sent mine down to Scan after several years of use, low voltage is a problem for these, the battery I had it on was weak and ran down fast after a charge. But also fuel karosene or diesel both can be a problem of building up the bugs they get with age. Make sure is fresh and clean. The little pot soots up. I had them send me spare parts that they changed out. Have not done my self yet but seems easy enough to work on, one was the glow plug. Which was fouled.
    I boil water all the time or leave on high so that what it's made too do.
    For me a great little unit, but seems it has the most problems in a damp enviroment??? IE; a rainy / foggy day

  6. #6

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    I have brand new batteries and still have had this happen to me the last two weekends. I believe, at least in my case, that the setting was set on high for too long and the thing shut down to prevent it from overheating. I think that it discusses in the manual that this can happen, and what lights flash and at what frequency indicate this problem. When mine shut down, the lid was down and the heater was being used. After it cooled itself down and shut itself off, I let it set for maybe 5 minutes and then fired it back up. Then after the red light stopped flashing, I turned it down to mid- to high-level and no problems. I'd think that if it were a low voltage issue that when I fired it back up it would shut itself off again right away. I boil water with no problems, but I don't set it all the way on high. Maybe 3/4.

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    My heater is wired up straight to the battery (with a fuse) and the batter was replaced at the end of last summer. All the times this happened it was just after running around for the day so the batter should be charged up. I have a CPAP that I run off 12v that is very sensitive to voltage as well and it ran for the whole night after having the stove shut down. Another member mentioned in a PM that Scan told him the overtemp sensor might need to have a spacer installed above it. Going to try and recreate the problem in the driveway this weened and then start thinking about a fix.
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

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    I don't have one of those stoves and don't know anything about them but maybe the electronics panel on them needs to be well ventilated so the circuits stay cool?? sort of like keeping a laptop cool. Maybe some sort of cooling fan blowing extra air on to the guts of the stove??

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    If the wind is blowing at the exhaust vent mine will stop working. Installed a clam shell cover over it and no problems. Low voltage, and air leaks in the fuel system will also make it not work. I carry a Honda generator and a hot plate as a backup.

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    Bringing this back from the past to update. I talked to the guys at Polar Marine in Anchorage (who are now Wallas dealers)and told them my story. He asked what kind of boat... I told him a Kingfisher and he said "Kingfisher always installs them wrong". You are supposed to have a big vent in front of the stove to allow it to cool. Installing the vent on my boat would make the front of my counter look terrible and that is way Kingfisher does not do it. I really did not want to do it either so I decided to try a homebrew solution. I installed (read zip tied) a computer cooling fan to the bottom of the wallas stove and wired it up to a switch so I can turn it off/on. The results are that my stove will now boil a pot of water and not turn off. I let the stove boil the water for about 20 minutes just to be sure. So I think I fixed it, I guess the first trip out this spring will be the real test.

    Here is a photo of the fan, sorry for the crappy quality but it was dark and I was using a flashlight to take the photo.

    2013-04-18 21.57.18.jpg
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

  11. #11

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    I hope that works out for you. But I wonder if the fan is simply blowing hot air onto the unit instead of bringing in cooler air from outside of the space beneath the unit. I installed my Wallas and had to drill holes for the incoming air. If done right, it can look good. But your fix might just work.

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    JR2
    You beat me to it. My geuss is the vent. They don't draft good with the exhaust port lower or as low as the stove. Ive fought with mine for years to figure it out. I bet you were anchored up,,,if you move slowly it would have worked pulls a draft? Was there a breeze blowing on that side of the boat,,,Stops the draft? Swing the boat down wind? Rainy calm dead days seam to not be very nice also. I also shortened my vent tube. The wallas has a O2 sensor shuting you down??? thats my bet?
    I pounded my head on the wall for 2 years and now got it figured out,,, I also have a small little plastic fan runs on a D cell battiery i hang over the side if needed,, right over the exhaust port for some Suck if you will,,, if it dont fire off.
    Also I would come home and it would work great in the driveway,,,go out on the water,,, no go so don't be fooled in your driveway with it working.

    Hope this help and mine works great now.

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    I just went over your post again. I have also over heated mine so I open that little cabinet door for some air if need be also. Just food for thought.

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    How well do these heat a cabin on say a 24 foot boat with a v berth cuddy?
    I have been going back and forth between one of these for cooking & heating or a alcohol stove for cooking and a Espar for heating.....
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
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    I would not spend the $$ on one for heating, it would take the chill off bit struggled to keep the cabin warm early in the spring or late in the fall. I just put an Espar in my boat for heat and if the wallas has many more problems it's going away.

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    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

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    Well if its going away please let me know first! Lol
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akgramps View Post
    How well do these heat a cabin on say a 24 foot boat with a v berth cuddy?
    I have been going back and forth between one of these for cooking & heating or a alcohol stove for cooking and a Espar for heating.....
    I have one on my 24-footer glass boat. During most of the season I have to turn it on its lowest setting or it gets too hot inside. So plenty warm for me.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by JR2 View Post
    My heater is wired up straight to the battery (with a fuse) and the batter was replaced at the end of last summer. All the times this happened it was just after running around for the day so the batter should be charged up. I have a CPAP that I run off 12v that is very sensitive to voltage as well and it ran for the whole night after having the stove shut down. Another member mentioned in a PM that Scan told him the overtemp sensor might need to have a spacer installed above it. Going to try and recreate the problem in the driveway this weened and then start thinking about a fix.
    I had the exact same problem, scan marine told me to put a spacer under the temp sensor and its worked perfect ever since. I did try running the heater with the door open before I put the spacer in and it made no difference. So that told me a vent in the font was not the problem. This is a easy fix.

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    I've been having an issue with mine where it will run with the flame lit for 5 minutes and then you will start smelling fuel and then a minute later the light will start flashing and it has to be turned off. After it happened five times in a row friday night, (the last time I noticed the yellow light on the bottom of the unit was flashing), I just pulled the fuse. Put the fuse back in Saturday morning and both Saturday and this morning it worked great. Thing is a bit finicky....
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    It is too bad ESPAR doesn't make a cook top and oven. I have had absolutely no problems with it, yet my wallas cook top and oven have been finicky off and on.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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