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Thread: Corrosion on Oars

  1. #1

    Default Corrosion on Oars

    I was just wondering if anyone has advice on corrosion of the connection area of oars that break down. I have a set of good oars, but the aluminum that forms the connection is all white and dusty from the salt. I can't very well grease this, should I just be breaking them down and rinsing them after ever adventure on the salt?

  2. #2
    webmaster Michael Strahan's Avatar
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    You should break down your oars after every trip in the salt, and thoroughly rinse and dry them. In this case, clean the components and go with a very light coat of oil to prevent further corrosion. Not much oil, just wipe it down with a rag.

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  3. #3

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    Thanks Mike. Not sure why I wasn't breaking them down each time to begin with. I guess I thought incorrectly that a good rinse would be good enough. Any specific kind of oil?

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    Isn't the white stuff aluminum oxidation? IIRC vinegar would be helpful in cleaning it off?

  5. #5

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    white stuff is a combo of salt residue and oxidation. Salt is highly corrosive, so rinse well after each salt use.

    Clean your oar shank connection points well with WD-40.

    larry

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    Thumbs up Aluminum Corrosion in Saltwater

    Quote Originally Posted by cwm907 View Post
    I was just wondering if anyone has advice on corrosion of the connection area of oars that break down. I have a set of good oars, but the aluminum that forms the connection is all white and dusty from the salt. I can't very well grease this, should I just be breaking them down and rinsing them after ever adventure on the salt?
    Various brands/models and qualities... guessing you are running Carlisle 2-piece oars.

    What you will get on the exposed aluminum male & female ends is referred to as 'white' corrosion or icing. It can lead to pitting or further damages.

    Greases and oils are not the answer!
    These do two things:
    a.) mask the issue &
    b.) attract dirt/grit.

    Remedy the situation by:
    1.) restoring (read as polishing) the surfaces as close to brightly new as possible... can use auto rubbing compound, Flitz, etc. Try NOT to go heavy with scotch-bright, wools, sanding etc.
    2.) use 'WAX'... can be your favorite auto wax (think thin final result finish on new car).

    Two products are often toted as best in the boat business... Woody Wax and Aluma-guard - they work differently.

    Wax is the better way to go here in Alaska. I do a bunch of restoration work to N R S fittings, brass oar-locks, and issues such as your oars... most folks think I threw their old ones out and gave 'em new components. Trust me --- restore and wax is all ya need here.

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