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Thread: Power to fish finder.

  1. #1
    Member H20Dogg's Avatar
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    Default Power to fish finder.

    Can I hook up to power from the post on the back of some of the Gages, or should I splice it in somewhere else?

  2. #2
    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    I'd find a seperate source just for your finder. That way you don't have a chance of interference from a faulty guage, wiper motors or whatever. Most boats have a power and ground strip under the dash with empty slots to use. If not, I'd guess you could tie in the main line with an added fuse.
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  3. #3
    Member sayak's Avatar
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    He's right about the strips. But if not, find or run a primary source wire and put in a "buss bar" upon which you can hook up this and any future electronic component. And don't forget to individually fuse each component.

  4. #4
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    If you want trouble free performance be sure to use the proper size marine wire and heat shrink connector. If you do not have a crimping tool spend the extra money and buy the proper tool, I'm not talking about one that sells for under $10.

  5. #5
    Member Frostbitten's Avatar
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    I 100% agree with sayak. If there isn't a buss bar already available, put one in.

  6. #6
    Member Dan in Alaska's Avatar
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    I would give the fish finder it's own power feed.....everything should have it's own feed with its own fuse or breaker.

    There are a few ways you can to do it. If the fish finder has an in-line fuse already in the power cord (many do), you can simply add it directly to a main power feed & ground. I wouldn't run it off another device, though. I'd connect it right to the main power feed or on open circuit on a fuse block, if possible.

    If you don't have a fuse block, you can add one easy enough, like a Blue Sea Fuse Block. The fuse block has a built-in grounding bus, so you can connect the + and - leads from the fish finder directly to the fuse block. Make sure to give the fish finder its own circuit - don't double them up.

    You can also add a switch panel that has fuses, such as the various Blue Sea Switch Panels. If you use one of these, you'll need to connect the + power lead from the fish finder to its own switch on panel, and then install a bus bar for the ground.



    I just rewired our boat. I have a fuse block under the dash, and a fused switch panel on the dash. I run the nav/anchor lights, bilge pumps, fan, deck lights, and wipers from the switch panel. I connect things that have their own power button (fish finder, GPS, VHF radio, stereo, dome lights, etc) to the fuse block. I also run the "park" wire from the wiper motors to the fuse block, so that they have their own fuse.

    I have a second, smaller fuse block in the transom area. This fuse block provides power feeds for the wash down pump, bilge pump float switches and high water alarm.

    Fuse blocks and switch panels provide for a clean, labeled installation. When a problem arrises, you know EXACTLY where to look, and it's very easy to check for blown fuses or loose wires. I don't want to trace down wire runs, locate in-line fuses, and try to troubleshoot problems on the water.

  7. #7
    Member AKBighorn's Avatar
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    I prefer to solder and use heat shrink tubing on all connections. It takes a little more time to hook it all up but you don't have to worry about loose wires, corrosion or shorts at a later time. A little more work up front helps prevent troubleshooting later.

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