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Thread: New jigs for halibut

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Default New jigs for halibut

    Here is my attempt at making some halibut jigs.
    First I made some 14oz Torpedo jigs. This picture is after powdercoating showing a bare jig and one with skirts and hooks. The colors are glow white and glow Orange with a glow skirt and a uv skirt.


    I also started some 9 oz and 7 oz flutter jigs. This is after powder coating but before adding 3D eyes and epoxying them in. And before adding hooks etc.
    I was experimenting with multi color powder painting.
    Tomorrow we will Finnish the flutter jigs and start some spire points and bullethead jigs.
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    Member Blue Thunder's Avatar
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    Chris those look like some killer rigs. Are you going into the business, if so put me on your list of buyers.
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    Very nice work Chris! Well done. I am looking forward to seeing your spire points and bullethead jigs

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Thunder View Post
    Chris those look like some killer rigs. Are you going into the business, if so put me on your list of buyers.
    Sorry but they are not for sale.
    I am looking for some fishermen to test them and provide me some feedback.
    Send me a pm and we can discuss it further.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

  5. #5

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    Never thought of using the torpedos....have you found a good way to clean out your fluid bed for when you change colors? I was thinking a blast from the air compressor would do the trick. Here is one of my early attempts with the spire points. Now, if I only lived closer to the ocean to use them!


    Jigs.jpg

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    I just use multiple cups in the fluid bed. I usually set up 2 or 3 colors and do my white basecoat and then reheat briefly with the heat gun while my partner switches cups then dip in another color.
    The torpedoes work real well for me.
    I have the molds for some larger torpedoes I just need to do a small modification to them by adding extra eyes.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I wonder how well the torpedos would work just using assist hooks attached at the top of the jig. Then no need for the eyes on the sides of the jig, and you can adjust where the hooks are positioned if you tie your own assist hooks.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Good point Paul. I just made some assist hooks to tie on these and the flutter jigs. The torpedoes only accept a #2 eye so there is really only room for one assist while still having room for the mainline.
    That is some of the type of advice I am looking for on any/all my new jigs.
    Here is a pic of some 20 oz spire points after powdercoating and epoxying the eyes in.
    I am not sold on this assist hook rigging on thes flutters but they are easy to move.
    I used Devcon 2 ton epoxy over the 3D eyes so they aren't going anywhere.
    I do like the looks of the backwards skirt on the spire point. It just needs a grub tail.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Put a splint ring on the eye and then a solid ring on top for the assist hooks and the conecting your main line. The solid rings are much stronger than the eye in the jig. I've tied assist hooks to split rings, but I've seen how they will fray the line to the hook, so putting a solid ring on is the way to go.

    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

    If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul H View Post
    Put a splint ring on the eye and then a solid ring on top for the assist hooks and the conecting your main line. The solid rings are much stronger than the eye in the jig. I've tied assist hooks to split rings, but I've seen how they will fray the line to the hook, so putting a solid ring on is the way to go.

    I may have to see if I could add a solid ring to the eye while it is in the mold.I don't think it will fit with this mold though.Adding a split ring and then a solid ring would work though.Gotta check what barlows wants for the solid rings.
    I am going to try some assist hooks on the side eyes.
    I did try molding some 24oz bullet heads today. That mold is giving me fits so I have to find a place that will ship me some mold release spray.Same thing with the 16oz spire point mold. the mold release comes in a spray can so a lot of places will not ship to Alaska or want $30 shipping and $9.50-$10.50 for the spray.
    The spray should help the mold fill out completly. The single barb on the bullet head just would not fill out. I tried pouring while holding the mold at an angle and still it would not work right. Holding at an angle was the ticket for my flutter jig molds.
    Now I will have to wait until I am off the slope again in 2 weeks before I am able to make any more jigs. Hopefully by then I will have some mold release spray.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

  11. #11

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    Like Paul said, put the split ring/solid ring combo on there for the flutter jigs and also disregard the bottom hook. The bottom hook will get you hung up more often, get into the line, get into the other, and finally into your hand eventually...only the top is needed for good hook ups.

    On the torpedos I would recommend a swivel installed in the eyelet during construction (can`t tell by the pic if there is one there) and then crimping a larger siwash hook...like 7/0-8/0. 4/0, 5/0, 6/0 have way too small of wire for large fish or heavy use of pliers for removal. With Gamkatsu hooks if you don`t keep them clean they will rot and weaken quick.


    Just my .02...I am digging the work. Sure is nice to catch fish on something you built.


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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK2AZ View Post
    Like Paul said, put the split ring/solid ring combo on there for the flutter jigs and also disregard the bottom hook. The bottom hook will get you hung up more often, get into the line, get into the other, and finally into your hand eventually...only the top is needed for good hook ups.

    On the torpedos I would recommend a swivel installed in the eyelet during construction (can`t tell by the pic if there is one there) and then crimping a larger siwash hook...like 7/0-8/0. 4/0, 5/0, 6/0 have way too small of wire for large fish or heavy use of pliers for removal. With Gamkatsu hooks if you don`t keep them clean they will rot and weaken quick.


    Just my .02...I am digging the work. Sure is nice to catch fish on something you built.
    There is no swivel on there at this time. The way this mold closes there isn't a way to add one to the eye before molding. One of the eyes is basically under the hinge after it closes and like the other side and the top have the outer edge of the eye flush with the outside of the mold.
    I am also trying a different hook for these it is an Owner 8/0 ssw hook that is on the assist rigs. I have some glow heat shrink tubing that I am using. I bought it awhile back and I think this is a good use for it.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

  13. #13

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    Could probably put a swivel on the split ring then.


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    Those are nice-looking jigs, but I "second" all of the advice that Paul has given you, Chris. My partners and I have been using jigs wih assist hooks for awhile now and his advice (pros and cons) is right on. We have even put top-side assist hooks on jigs NOT originally intended for assist hooks and found them to fish much more effectively. Keep up the good wok!

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kasilofchrisn View Post
    I may have to see if I could add a solid ring to the eye while it is in the mold.I don't think it will fit with this mold though.Adding a split ring and then a solid ring would work though.Gotta check what barlows wants for the solid rings.
    I am going to try some assist hooks on the side eyes.
    I did try molding some 24oz bullet heads today. That mold is giving me fits so I have to find a place that will ship me some mold release spray.Same thing with the 16oz spire point mold. the mold release comes in a spray can so a lot of places will not ship to Alaska or want $30 shipping and $9.50-$10.50 for the spray.
    The spray should help the mold fill out completly. The single barb on the bullet head just would not fill out. I tried pouring while holding the mold at an angle and still it would not work right. Holding at an angle was the ticket for my flutter jig molds.
    Now I will have to wait until I am off the slope again in 2 weeks before I am able to make any more jigs. Hopefully by then I will have some mold release spray.
    Chris, one thing I've learned from casting more than a few bullets over the years, and the occasional jig and sinker as there are three words to remember when you're not getting fill out. Hot, hot and hot. Your mold needs to be hot, your lead needs to be hot, and you need to pour the lead quickly while it's still hot. Mold release helps most with a casting that is sticking to the mold, for fill out get the mold really hot before casting. If you're using a bottom pour furnace, it might not be filling the mold fast enough. I use a 2# ladle for fishing molds. When everything is nice and hot you'll get complete fillout and no wrinkles. Adding some plumbers tin to the lead will help it flow, but it isn't necessary if you just run hot. If your'e getting paper thin flashing of the lead running out the sides of the mold then you've gone too far, but I've found most casters err on the side of too cool rather than too hot.

    As to mold release, you don't need to buy a commercial product. I take my propane torch and wrap masking tape around the air inlets. This produces yellow very sooty flame, and I coat the mold with the soot. Works just as well as commercial product, and a propane torch has many more uses.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

    If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul H View Post
    Chris, one thing I've learned from casting more than a few bullets over the years, and the occasional jig and sinker as there are three words to remember when you're not getting fill out. Hot, hot and hot. Your mold needs to be hot, your lead needs to be hot, and you need to pour the lead quickly while it's still hot. Mold release helps most with a casting that is sticking to the mold, for fill out get the mold really hot before casting. If you're using a bottom pour furnace, it might not be filling the mold fast enough. I use a 2# ladle for fishing molds. When everything is nice and hot you'll get complete fillout and no wrinkles. Adding some plumbers tin to the lead will help it flow, but it isn't necessary if you just run hot. If your'e getting paper thin flashing of the lead running out the sides of the mold then you've gone too far, but I've found most casters err on the side of too cool rather than too hot.

    As to mold release, you don't need to buy a commercial product. I take my propane torch and wrap masking tape around the air inlets. This produces yellow very sooty flame, and I coat the mold with the soot. Works just as well as commercial product, and a propane torch has many more uses.
    That mold was very HOT. It would make a perfect jig except for the barb area and around the hook. I also had the inserts very HOT. I tried all manner of tilting the mold and anything else I could think of. I was using my 1# ladel and pouring right over the top of the pot. I was pouring linotype alloy mixed with wheel weights and added about 12 # of soft almost pure lead to the mix after I had the issues and still had the same problems.
    I do have a propane torch and it is always there while molding. I use it a lot to heat the inserts for the molds as well as other odd jobs.
    I found someone on EBAY who was willing to send me the mold release spray for $3.50 in shipping so I have a couple of cans on the way now. This is Frankford Arsenal -Drop Out and was recommended by some Professional jig makers on another site to cure this very problem. It contains graphite and helps molds fill out as well as release easier.
    I had considered smoking the molds but reading posts on another site this spray is supposed to be just the ticket for the problem I was having and recommended over smoking the mold. The recommendations came from guys who make hundreds to thousands of jigs a week and sell them.
    Supposedly after you spray it on you only need to reapply after several hundred castings. One guy reported he made 900 jigs before noticing any wear and respraying the mold. Sounds good to me anyway and definetly worth a shot.
    With my flutter Jig mold it would not fill out even though the mold was so hot the wood handles were smoking. Tilting the mold fixed that problem but not on my Hilts 24oz bullet head jig.
    Back to the slope for me today so it will be a couple more weeks before I can make anymore jigs.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    Quote Originally Posted by kasilofchrisn View Post
    Sorry but they are not for sale.
    I am looking for some fishermen to test them and provide me some feedback.
    Send me a pm and we can discuss it further.
    I'll help you test some in September Chris.

  18. #18
    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRIFTER_016 View Post
    I'll help you test some in September Chris.
    You must be good if you can cast a 14oz jig on the upper Kenai with that center pin rig you got. Might have to be careful not to knock your dog in the head when casting from the raft.
    On a more serious note I am pretty busy in Seprember with the wedding and all. I don't think she will find it funny if I go fishing instead. Keep in touch though anythings possible.
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    I just ordered a 2# bottom pour ladle so it should be easier making the bigger jigs.
    I also ordered a new mold for a smaller squid jig. It makes 3.5oz,4.2oz,and 6 oz jigs. Some guys at work like the smaller type jigs so I figured I would try and make some.
    here is the squid jig mold I ordered. It will have a free swinging hook and a good skirt on it.
    squid mold.jpg
    "The closer I get to nature the farther I am from idiots"

    "Fishing and Hunting are only an addiction if you're trying to quit"

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Your squid jig made me realize I can use my 16 oz teardrop sinker to make a jig by putting a large hoochie skirt over the sinker and a couple of assist hooks off the top. I modified the jig to cast bullet head sinkers with it as well, so now I guess it's a 3 for one jig.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

    If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

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