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Thread: No lights working on my 2002 RMK

  1. #1
    Member J2theD's Avatar
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    Default No lights working on my 2002 RMK

    I recently bought a 2002 RMK 700 and realized (after i bought it) that none of the lights are working (dash, head, or rear lights). The sled is running fine.

    Someone mentioned a voltage regulator might be the issue. anyone have experience with this?

    Appreciate the help.


    thanks,
    J.D.

  2. #2
    Member Bsj425's Avatar
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    it would be the voltage regulator very common. it should be replaced ASAP tho because it can cause your stator to burn out if there it nothing regulating the power which is far more costly and a headache. The voltage regulator is around 30 bucks and is plug and play

  3. #3
    Member J2theD's Avatar
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    Where is the voltage regulator located? I assume its probably not the same for all machines. I plan on fixing it now before I go out riding this weekend.

    Thanks

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    I would guest it's some ware below the ignition sw, it looked like a 3 inch x 3 inch x 1 inch sq. with a couple of wires coming out. Make sure you clean the grounding point or you will have problems. It also sounds like all your lights are burned out because when a regulator go bad you will have two type of problems. Dim lights or very bright lights until they all burn out. Snowmobile salvage $40, Polaris $70.

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    Quote Originally Posted by J2theD View Post
    Where is the voltage regulator located? I assume its probably not the same for all machines. I plan on fixing it now before I go out riding this weekend.

    Thanks
    It is located behind the right footwell. He is a picture on a 2000 RMK 700 so you can see the "plug and play". You can also use an Arctic Cat voltage regulator and save a few bucks, they are the same.


  6. #6
    Member Arcticmayhem's Avatar
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    I don't know how much you know about snowmachine electrical systems, so don't be offended if I make it overly simple here.

    The electrical system works like this:
    The stator has permanent magnets in it that spin past a coil of copper wire. This induces an AC pulse through the wire. You should have 3 coils under the stator. One for lighting, one for ignition, and one to trigger the spark. Most snowmachines (Ski-doo is the only exception that I know of) then pass the AC power through a voltage regulator/rectifier (sometimes these are 2 separate components). There are diodes (one way gates) that turn the AC into DC power. Then, as the engine RPM increases, so does the voltage because the magnet is passing faster and more often. The regulator allows about 12 volts through, and then just shorts the rest to ground. The electricity is then run through the lights, where it does work before it goes back to ground (chassis).

    Several things can go wrong with this system. Most of them are simple to diagnose. A wiring diagram helps, but once you know one machine, they are all pretty similar.

    First, the coil is made out of copper wire, coated with varnish. Vibrations and heat can cause it to break or short internally. There should be 2 or 3 plugs comming out from behind your recoil. One (or maybe two) will trace to your CDI, another type of coil, and your spark plugs. The other will lead to your voltage regulator/rectifier. Unplug this one and probe it with a multimeter. Without a wiring diagram or looking at the exact machine, I can't tell you which wire, but one of them should have about 12v AC out with the machine idling. If not, pull the flywheel and replace the coil.

    Next, find a way to probe the connector to the regulator. It should have a wire leading out to the wiring harness that will have 12v DC. If it goes much over 15v when you rev the engine up (use a safe hoist and someone at the kill switch) then replace that. When the regulator fails, it usually either grounds everything or nothing, so your lights will either burn out when you rev it up, or they will be dim or dead. It's easy to check the bulbs. I would start there.

    Sometimes it can be as simple as a broken wire, disconnected plug, or a rubbed through short. A multimeter and a wiring diagram should be all you need to diagnose this problem. Shouldn't take more than an evening in the garage. Best of luck to you!

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