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Thread: Reciever Hitch (broken)

  1. #21
    Member AKluvr95's Avatar
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    This is a wake-up call for me as I drag my boat with a truck camper on 95% of the time so I have to use an extender which lowers my rating and limited me to a lighter boat than I'd like to have purchased. I am curious about the adjustable hitches though ~ seems [like Cap'n Ron mentioned] tihe weak point would be in the side flanges where the ball pins mount through.
    I remember back around a dozen years ago or so, I saw a boat and trailer sitting well out into the alders at the bottom of Turnagain Pass [over the guardrail] on the curve before just before Ingram Creek. Yikes!! So glad we are not reading a different outcome from this event.

  2. #22
    Member patrickL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robbentler View Post
    PatrickL, Good luck in the derby. I don't think I want to fight that crowd. I'm gonna sit this one out.
    Thanks. If you change your mind look me up. Now lets just hope the weather is good enough.

  3. #23
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    I also use a stinger on my camper/trailer and I was considering adding two feet to the tongue of my trailer instead of using a stinger it would be a better choice. The extension could be bolted on and remove if needed.

  4. #24
    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    Stingers are almost always made of SOLID steel and are rated pretty high. I think that would be a good option. If the entire trailer tongue was extended I'd say go for it. But I'm not too keen on the idea of adding another connection that might create one more spot to bend or break. Look at those swing tongue adapters. Great idea, but how much of Alaskan roads can they really handle?

    Yes this was a real wake up call for me too. Now that I bought the Curt hitch, I'll never put another walmart drop hitch on my truck again. Not worth it to me....
    27' Wooldridge Super Sport Offshore Pilothouse PRIME TIME!
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  5. #25
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Yikes!

    Talk about a close call. It looks like a classic fatigue failure, steel has a fine grained look when there is a fatique failure. It also looks to me like a poorly designed hitch insert. There should be a gusset welded in there as the bend is a stress riser and needs to be re-inforced.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

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  6. #26

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    I have a hitch called a "super-truss" because of my camper hanging over two-feet. It's a weird looking set-up, as I learn, I up-grade. It looks like two receivers, one on top of the other, with chains extending at an angle off each side. When I had it installed, the old sitting next to the new was a huge confidence boost! I have a pile of different receivers/balls/hitches that I have replaced with better ones. In my paranoid mind it seems to be sagging more and more each year, yet when I measure/level it not the case, I think it might have been the camper, thus I got air bags to support it more.

    Anyone have a "Super-Truss" type hitch set-up?

  7. #27
    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    Myers, I've seen those before. That's one beefy set-up.
    27' Wooldridge Super Sport Offshore Pilothouse PRIME TIME!
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  8. #28
    Member AKluvr95's Avatar
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    Which one do you have [weight distribution or without] AND what vehicle is it installed on? Are they available locally?

    Quote Originally Posted by Myers View Post
    I have a hitch called a "super-truss" because of my camper hanging over two-feet. It's a weird looking set-up, as I learn, I up-grade. It looks like two receivers, one on top of the other, with chains extending at an angle off each side. When I had it installed, the old sitting next to the new was a huge confidence boost! I have a pile of different receivers/balls/hitches that I have replaced with better ones. In my paranoid mind it seems to be sagging more and more each year, yet when I measure/level it not the case, I think it might have been the camper, thus I got air bags to support it more.

    Anyone have a "Super-Truss" type hitch set-up?

  9. #29

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    Without. F250 Diesel. Scary part about my set-up is you can't feel the boat back there, I have had wheels come off the trailer before and lost plenty of bearings before up-grading the wheel/axle size. My friend actually called on his cell phone behind me from another car telling me to stop, going up a hill, because a wheel hub exploded and was toggling along trapped under the fender! The truck is a beast and the camper adds so much weight to it that it controls what ever is attached to it.

  10. #30
    Member AKluvr95's Avatar
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    YIKES! I cannot see back their with the camper on either...

    Quote Originally Posted by Myers View Post
    Without. F250 Diesel. Scary part about my set-up is you can't feel the boat back there, I have had wheels come off the trailer before and lost plenty of bearings before up-grading the wheel/axle size. My friend actually called on his cell phone behind me from another car telling me to stop, going up a hill, because a wheel hub exploded and was toggling along trapped under the fender! The truck is a beast and the camper adds so much weight to it that it controls what ever is attached to it.

  11. #31
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Some good lessons from the side of the road in this thread. If you're towing long distances from home, you should make sure you have a spare hitch & ball (put the good one on the receiver and keep the el-cheapo one under the seat), a separate jack that can lift the tongue if the primary jack fails, wheel chocks to block up the trailer on a hill, spare trailer tire(s), a wire splicing kit, tools, and replacement pins for the receiver hitch bar.

    Another thing is to make sure you have some real safety chains and they are the right length. I don't know how many times I've seen a huge trailer that has 3/16" chain with open hooks hanging on the receiver and a 1/4" bolt holding the chain to the tongue. And then you see chains that are so long that they scrape the ground over every bump. You expect that chain to catch the trailer and hold it while you stop? Not happening. Chain should be big and beefy. A 10,000# load needs at least 5/16" chain, 15,000# goes to 3/8", and 20,000# requires a 7/16" chain. It must be structurally connected to the trailer tongue in a manner than won't fail on a shock load. The other end needs to have a captured connection, either shackles or at least hooks with gates on them. And then the length should be just enough to prevent binding through the full range of motion on the trailer connection. Any extra chain length just means more damage to truck and trailer if the chains are ever tested. Finally, the chains must be crossed under the hitch; never run straight forward.

    My big gripe about trailers... tear down and grease all your hubs at the beginning of every single season! And for the love of God, do some maintenance on your lights, wiring, and connectors. Make sure everything works!
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  12. #32
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    http://www.flickr.com/photos/76392923@N04/7004943053/

    First time trying to post an image, hope it shows up...


    So forget posting an image. Too much work for a non-computer person to do... just click the link I guess.

  13. #33

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    Good advice JOAT! I'm on my third trailer/tongue jack, I carry a floor jack and bottle jack now!

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