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Thread: got my new mold

  1. #1
    Member akriverrat's Avatar
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    Default got my new mold

    Showed up in the mail today! 5 and 7oz flutter jigs, there 5 1/4" and 5 3/4" and should get them lings and monster butts attention!!!

  2. #2

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    Pictures or it didn`t happen.


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  3. #3

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    I got the full array of sizes in the flutter jig last year. They're butt kickers for sure. The smaller sizes are a little tougher to cast because they get pretty thin down toward the eyes. Not so much so for the 5-7, and the 9's are relatively trouble free. Make sure your molds are good and hot, and use really hot lead. I tried pouring them using a bottom-pour furnace and it was a train wreck. Best luck is with a full-sized ladle rather than the smaller ones intended for bullet casting.

    I have tried them with the double assist hook as shown in the drawing and didn't like it. I've ended up using either a single assist hook at the top, or an assist at the top and a Siwash on a split ring at the bottom.

    It's worth noting that salmon hit these well in midwater, but almost always at the head end. Without the assist there you'll get some hits on the way to the bottom, but come back with only teeth marks up front.

    Here is the Do-It page for the flutter lure.

    BTW- Fished side by side these produced more fish, both salmon and halibut, than the standard dart lures from any source. They have lots more action in the water, yet sink just as fast to the bottom.

    I'll never buy another dart.

  4. #4
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    Who did you buy the moulds from?

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    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    nevermind - i hit the link.

    I think i will just make my own mould...

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullelkklr View Post
    nevermind - i hit the link.

    I think i will just make my own mould...
    If you can get hold of one of the jigs, it would be worth looking at the profile to see what's ticking. I like the idea of making your own, but I'd sure have a look at the details of the flutter. I'm real impressed with how well they act in the water, and would hope to make homebuilt act the same way.

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    I was just talking with a buddy about doing this. What sizes would be suggested for fishing the Juneau area (100-300ft, probably not as much current as Cook Inlet stuff) as I'd hate to invest 100 bucks in the wrong sizes, but still want to have the right options.

    Also, what was your lead source....wheel weights? I love making my own lures and definitely looking forward to making these....and using them.

  8. #8

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    I'm betting the FRS-2-79 which drops the 7 and 9 oz would do just fine. I've never fished as deep as 300, but in the 100-120' range the 7 hits bottom just fine, even with a bit of current. I've only needed to resort to the 9 with really strong currents at those depths. In fact it's too heavy for my tastes most of the time. Even the 9 would probably be too light with lots of current at 300 unless you were drifting rather than anchored. Even then it could be problematic keeping the jig more or less under the boat.

    I got my lead as salvage from an indoor range. Other than that it's been a scrounge situation. Recycle yards up here sometimes have it, sometimes don't.

  9. #9
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I fish mostly PWS or Reserection bay which don't have the extreme tides of Cook Inlet, but it doesn't take a huge tide or much current to need some weight to hold bottom at 50 fathoms. Hence I'd say 7 and 9 oz are going to be your most useful weights, and it would be nice if they made a 12 oz mold.

    WW's work fine for jigs, but to get a good fill out of the mold ww's and the mold need to be nice and hot. Adding some tin to the ww's will greatly improve their castability. I usually dump my jigs into a 5 gal bucket of water, not for the hardness but so I don't have to wait as long for the jig to cool before casting another one. Just be exremely careful if you use water to quench the jigs as steam flashing off in molten lead can really ruin your day. The downside of the hardened jigs is that if you want to bend the jig to change it's action it will be too hard.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

    If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

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    I'm also looking into finding a dart headed jig mold as well, ideally one with a good barb on it, instead of the collar that many of them have, anybody have experience with a good one of these.

    Also, how do you guys paint these molded lures/jigs, relfective tape, paint, powder or liquid......? And do you use cord or mono for the stinger hooks?

    I guess I kinda hijacked this, sorry, but got all excited thinking about making jigging stuff.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Catch It View Post
    I'm also looking into finding a dart headed jig mold as well, ideally one with a good barb on it, instead of the collar that many of them have, anybody have experience with a good one of these.

    Also, how do you guys paint these molded lures/jigs, relfective tape, paint, powder or liquid......? And do you use cord or mono for the stinger hooks?

    I guess I kinda hijacked this, sorry, but got all excited thinking about making jigging stuff.
    I only use the variety with collars because I'm usually tying hair or yarn on those.

    As for paint, I've tried powder coat, and it's great, but I go through a bunch with large jigs. The stuff Do-It sells is great but hazmat shipping is problematic. Appliance paint is about the toughest thing available locally up here. For ease or laziness (you're call) the last couple of years I just spray paint mine with Krylon (usually white) and add color with magic markers. Doesn't last long in rocky bottoms or rattling around in tackle boxes, but I can redo a dozen in a couple of minutes before starting a trip.

    As for assist hooks, I have a bunch of old 80# dacron braid left from years ago, and I use that along with shrink tube. Just double the dacron and snell it on with a short loop, slip the shrink tube over the knot and hook shank and part way up the loop for a little stiffness.

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    As for paint i love the powder and a little goes a long ways. the trick is to cure it after its been applied as per the insructions. Its very tough after its been cured and is VERY chip resistant. I am envious of you guys. I have a pile of lead but no molds. One of these years i am going to have to get a few molds. I used to cast bullets and i have hand cast amost a million before i quit. It is crucial for you to let the mold heat up before you start pouring or you will wind up with very wrinkled jigs. If your mold and lead is too hot it will have a frosted look to it. Also i would not use pure lead as its a bit too soft. Mix in some wheel weights at least. A little time solder will also help them fill out better and be a nice shiney finish when you are done.

  13. #13
    Member akriverrat's Avatar
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    Good info on this lure here. I also have the 4oz that i powdered quite some time ago. Ive never used them myself but one guy i gave a few too said they rocked the silvers in prince william sound. Got the bigger mold for the big bottom feeders. Sure wish there was more in the mold world for the "big fishy" fishers of the world and not everything was about bass! I got a ton of pure lead from a hospital project and mix with harder lead about 50/50 to stiffen em up. Been havin troubles uploading from my phone but ill try and get some pics posted when I finish some up. They will look alot like my avatar but BIG!

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    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akriverrat View Post
    Good info on this lure here. I also have the 4oz that i powdered quite some time ago. Ive never used them myself but one guy i gave a few too said they rocked the silvers in prince william sound. Got the bigger mold for the big bottom feeders. Sure wish there was more in the mold world for the "big fishy" fishers of the world and not everything was about bass! I got a ton of pure lead from a hospital project and mix with harder lead about 50/50 to stiffen em up. Been havin troubles uploading from my phone but ill try and get some pics posted when I finish some up. They will look alot like my avatar but BIG!
    I happen to know that that guy that you gave a few of them to could use some more in black and silver and blue and silver. I bet he would also use several of the big ones.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Somewhere I came across the link to a guy that makes bigger flutter style molds and also custom molds. Don't forget Hilts for big lead head jigs.

    Last year I got a couple of variety packs of chinese butterfly jig knock offs from ebay. The paint isn't too tough, but they are reasonably priced.

    As for assist hooks, I got a couple packs of owners on sale a few years back and have a spool of 300# kevlar I use to tie them. Heatshrink tubing helps stiffen them up and protects the line from fraying. I've found when using split rings it frays the line so one piece rings should be used for the assist hooks.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

    If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

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    Great info on tying the assist hooks.

    http://www.sportfishermen.com/board/f172/making-your-own-assist-hooks-65783.html


    This may be a dumb question, but if this is the assist hook, is there a hook on the bottom....or does it mess with it too much.

  17. #17
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I've run jigs with one assist hook at the head and one at the bottom, and jigs with two assist hooks at the top, none at the bottom. I can't think of a time a fish wasn't hooked on the assist hook. So now I only run assist hooks. Bottom hooks are only good for snagging bottom, and it's also better to fight the fish tied directly to the hook with the jig able to swing free vs. the fish being able to use the jig for some leverage to jump the hook.

    I'm not sure if the double assist is really needed. I have had times where the second hook is in an eye or some other part of the fish which makes it more difficult to get the hooks out, and the second swinging around with a flopping fish scares the heck out of me.

    A few of the jigs I use.

    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

    If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

  18. #18

    Default swinging death

    I have tried the double assist hook with one on each end.
    Usually results in sticking one of them somewhere other than in the mouth.

    If the other one is not stuck in the fish somewhere..................
    it can easily stick in your hand (or the net) if the fish thrashes while you remove the one out of the mouth.

    My plan hereforth is either a single assist hook, or two assist hooks (no other hooks)
    with them both in the same end of the jig.

  19. #19
    Member akriverrat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spoiled one View Post
    I happen to know that that guy that you gave a few of them to could use some more in black and silver and blue and silver. I bet he would also use several of the big ones.
    Will get them goin soon, just hope this guy knows i have different living arrangements and im a bit outta practice so he will hafta be a little patient but it will be a short learning curve im sure.

  20. #20
    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akriverrat View Post
    Will get them goin soon, just hope this guy knows i have different living arrangements and im a bit outta practice so he will hafta be a little patient but it will be a short learning curve im sure.
    Roger that! Let me know if you need an extra hand.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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