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Thread: HD Hitch and tunnel support - M8 Mt. Machine

  1. #1

    Default HD Hitch and tunnel support - M8 Mt. Machine

    I just thought I'd share my solution to hauling a heavy gear bag, extra fuel, etc, on the tunnel and the ability to pull a Siglin with a Mt type machine. Why, because I buckled the tunnel on my 2009 M8 by overloading the tunnel with gear - oops.

    See pics. The side supports and top piece are 1/4", grab handle is 1" schedule 80, and "hitch tabs" and gusset are 2" x 1/2". All aluminum of course. This added 11 lbs to the machine. The end of the side supports are drilled such that the grab handle (bumper) goes through them for added strength and welds on both sides. Same for the hitch tabs - they were drilled and slid down the grab bar and welded all around. I modified the factory sno flap and tailight and re-mounted. The side supports go far enough forward to tie into the front tunnel section. Mounted with SS and steel rivets - lot's of them - ugh!

    I pulled the homemade Siglin 81 miles (lightly loaded) yesterday and it seemed to work just fine. I'm not sure I need to, but I might make a steel or aluminum drop down bracket (10 or 12 inches) that mounts to the Siglin to reduce the sharp angle of the sled tongue.

    For any M8 owners interested, I also shortened my factory seat by 11 inches. Still plenty of room for sitting, lost some weight, and gained 11 inches of room on the tunnel. Post #16, http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/s...highlight=seat
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  2. #2

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    A few more pics
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  3. #3

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    Last of the pics
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  4. #4
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    Beautiful work. Just remember that heavy duty part is still connected to the still light duty front part.

  5. #5

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    Disclaimer - I cut out most of the pieces and provided the "blueprints", but a local welder did the welding.

    I hear you AKDoug. Although you can see the tunnel buckled right behind the running boards. Forward of the running boards the tunnel has much more ridgidity and it's all tied together now. Anyway, I guess if I buckle this baby I'll have to add a Skandic to the fleet!

  6. #6
    Member BRWNBR's Avatar
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    looks great. agree with doug, heavy duty rear needs a heavy duty front...
    like putting a hardcore hitch on my ford focus....well not excatly.. my M8 has more horses than a focus...
    what load were you hauling and on what kinda terrain when you buckled the machine before?
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpost View Post
    A few more pics
    It looks like your hitch to sled is only designed to go up and down as the machine moves over any uneven ground ,Would you not be better to install a pental type hitch in the middle of the two brackets and that way you would have freedom of movement in a tight turn side to side.

  8. #8

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    Jake: The tunnel buckled while hauling a 2.5 gal gas can right behind the seat and that big yellow gear bag, snowshoes, and shovel. The yellow gear bag get's heavy - 25 lbs? Not like I was doing cornice drops either

    Big Bend: I understand your concern. However, the hitch on the sled, or more specifically the part that the hitch pin goes through is made from UHMW. The UHMW flexes nicely when in a bind, when the sled turns left/right, or when the sled jacknifes when backing up. However, the real key is the hole in the UHMW was drilled much larger than the 1/2" hole the hitch pin goes through. This allows plenty of "slop" and that's where you get full range of left to right movement. Not too much slop to be a problem. Hope I describe that so you understand. This hitch setup is very simple to hook up (easier than a pintle on steep angles)), very strong, and a time proven design.

    Thanks
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  9. #9
    Member broncoformudv's Avatar
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    Nice job that looks like it will hold up pretty good!

  10. #10

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    If you want to take some of the rattle and banging out of the area where the pin goes through loope of the sled ,take a peice of rope and weave it in through the hole with the pin until you have it filled up and that will soften the movement of the sled and the machine.

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