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Thread: Arrow, Spine, Broadhead, Fletching...

  1. #1
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    Default Arrow, Spine, Broadhead, Fletching...

    Just curious what others use.

    Easton FMJ 340 Spine
    Magnus Stinger 125gr 2 Blade BH
    Fusion Vanes
    DL is 29, Arrows cut to 28"
    Draw weight is ~65lbs

    Plan to be my all around game getter here in AK.

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    How do they group for you
    dave

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    At 20, close enough I need shoot separate targets each shot so as not to ruin my vanes. Looking forward to nicer weather and the chance to try them at longer distances. Debated 100gr BHs, but scored a deal on the ones I have so such it is....

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    Moderator Daveinthebush's Avatar
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    Carbon Express Rebel Hunters, 27.5"
    4" Dura Vanes
    Magnus SS Snuffers 125 grains
    Bow Tech Pro40 Dually at 65 pounds

    Not much I can't harvest with that setup.

    Vietnam - June 70 - Feb. 72
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    Member blasterak's Avatar
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    Easton FMJ 340 @ 27.5"
    2" Blazer Vanes
    100gr German Kinetics
    DL 27.5"
    Draw weight 61.8 lbs maxed out
    2012 PSE X Force Vendetta DC, love this bow!

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    Quote Originally Posted by chasing View Post
    At 20, close enough I need shoot separate targets each shot so as not to ruin my vanes. Looking forward to nicer weather and the chance to try them at longer distances. Debated 100gr BHs, but scored a deal on the ones I have so such it is....
    Setup is plenty good for our type of hunting up here.I ask about the groups because they can be a tell tale sign if the arrows are too stiff or too weak and all sorts of things.there are a couple of methods of tuning but if I were you just shoot them at longer distances and see what you come up with.If your groups are good and coming off the bow good then stick with it.If you get a flyer or two try spinning the nock or swapping broad head with another one of your arrows and see what happens.any questions feel free to drop me a line and Ill help you out if I can
    dave

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    I am shooting a Hoyt Katera, 29' draw, 70lbs.

    Heavy Game Setup: (Moose/Brown Bear)
    Axis FMJ 300 @ 27.5"
    125gr G5 Stiker
    2" Blazer on top of a half wrap.
    505 grains, 278 FPS

    Speed Setup:
    Easton ST Axis 340 @ 26.5"
    100 gr. G5 Stiker
    2" Blazer on top of a half wrap
    395 grains, 302 FPS

    I shot animals with both setups last season and they both performed very well. The Stikers fly nicely and cut well.

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    I'm shooting Easton FMJ 340
    Slick Trick magnum 100 grain 4 blade
    Blazer vanes
    DL 29", arrows cut to 29"
    Draw weight 72lbs

    Already took a moose with it so I'm happy.

  9. #9
    Member elksnout's Avatar
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    DXT,FMJ 340, 28'' draw, 100gr Hellrazors, 2'' Blazers, 72lbs....4 elk (2 bulls) 21" black bear..I'll be taking my 1st moose up there with you guys next fall..I think my setup will work ok.

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    A good way to gauge your setup is to check the kinetic energy the formula is KE=(mv²)/450,240 m is the mass or weight of the arrow and v is velocity or speed, 55 ftlbs for large game,65 for the toughest game...
    again there are a lot of other variables so this is just another tool to aid in setup
    dave

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    bear....go to alaska bowhunters supplies web site and read ashby's studies!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bear View Post
    Setup is plenty good for our type of hunting up here.I ask about the groups because they can be a tell tale sign if the arrows are too stiff or too weak and all sorts of things.there are a couple of methods of tuning but if I were you just shoot them at longer distances and see what you come up with.If your groups are good and coming off the bow good then stick with it.If you get a flyer or two try spinning the nock or swapping broad head with another one of your arrows and see what happens.any questions feel free to drop me a line and Ill help you out if I can
    dave
    Swapping Broad Head? Different style or different weight? Thanks.

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    I believe bear is referring to switching arrow and broad head pairs. Take one of the same heads and put it on a flyer arrow to see if it shoot better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SpartanGunner View Post
    I believe bear is referring to switching arrow and broad head pairs. Take one of the same heads and put it on a flyer arrow to see if it shoot better.
    Makes sense. Thanks.

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    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    I shoot full length 400 spine Easton Axis Nanos with 5" shield cut feathers tipped with Muzzy 125gr broadheads. My bow of choice is my 64" homemade longbow shooting 50# @ 30". For paper target competitions I shoot full length 400 spine Fat Boys with 145gr. Field points from the same bow.

    I gave up the training wheels a couple of years ago. Yes my range is limited to about 40 yds now, but I sure like carrying the lightweight longbow over that anchor of a compound!
    AKmud
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpartanGunner View Post
    I believe bear is referring to switching arrow and broad head pairs. Take one of the same heads and put it on a flyer arrow to see if it shoot better.
    that is exactly what I meant ,thanks for clearing that up Spartan. Chase what it boils down to is you want to start the tuning process with broadheads by doing all the basics first. The point I was trying to make about arrows is sometimes when you switch the broad head pairs it changes the point of impact and might eliminate flyers..When I set up my three blade broadheads I actually heat up the insert(depending on how they were glued in) and turn the broadhead to match the vanes,does it matter not sure if it does or ift its just the target archer in me.Also is a good idea to number your arrows 1,2,3 ect so that if you are having some flyer issues you know if its an arrow or a bad shot(if number three arrow consistantly shoots out of the group its more then likely that arrow). You seem to be on the right track though setup in my opinion is good,your initial groups sound good at twenty and your right it will be nice to get out side soon to shoot

    as far as broadhead weights are concerned this all goes in balance of the arrow(foc and such and the arcticles Tradbow referred to are a good read on this),again if you are shooting consistant and you arrows are coming off the bow straight(no wild fishtails or such) stick with it you will be fine. I only pointed out the KE formula as to be used as a guage for setup.
    Dave

    TradBow I have read Ashbys studies and if I recall(i will reread) he was a traditional shooter that did studies on KE vs Momentum.I remember that he shot a really heavy arrow with a high foc, cause at the time I read it I was shooting my indoor target arrows with a rediculous amount of upfront weight as well to break the spline so to speak on a 26 size shaft so my balance was similar.

    Dave

  17. #17

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    Dave,

    the arrow knows not what shot it! It only penetrates with the energy its given. The thought behind it is to maximize what you've got.

    He's got new stuff out on the high foc...if nothing else its an interesting read and its all open for public reading to those who want to know more about penetration.

    There's somethign else to think about in a higher (maybe not extreme like Ashby is talking about now) FOC than what most people these days shoot...is the long distance accuracy. I may never shoot as far as mud with my stick, but you guys who can it definatly could benefit you to read and atleast try it. There's a reason people shot a high foc for field, nfaa and a host of the other old time shoots. To be frank I like being closer than farther but thats just my personal nitch. Just passing along information that may help someone along the way. And for the record I dont have anything to gain by passing it on, I dont shoot grizzlystiks and I rarely buy stuff from ABS. The information is just another tool for us to use to be better at what we do!

  18. #18
    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    I just picked up some grizzly sticks to try. They are pretty and definitely are heavy up front. It will be interesting to find out what weight points shoot the best. I know some folks who are using 200+ gr. points with them and they shoot like darts.
    AKmud
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    The porcupine is a peacful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

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    Quote Originally Posted by TradBow View Post
    Dave,

    the arrow knows not what shot it! It only penetrates with the energy its given. The thought behind it is to maximize what you've got.

    He's got new stuff out on the high foc...if nothing else its an interesting read and its all open for public reading to those who want to know more about penetration.

    There's somethign else to think about in a higher (maybe not extreme like Ashby is talking about now) FOC than what most people these days shoot...is the long distance accuracy. I may never shoot as far as mud with my stick, but you guys who can it definatly could benefit you to read and atleast try it. There's a reason people shot a high foc for field, nfaa and a host of the other old time shoots. To be frank I like being closer than farther but thats just my personal nitch. Just passing along information that may help someone along the way. And for the record I dont have anything to gain by passing it on, I dont shoot grizzlystiks and I rarely buy stuff from ABS. The information is just another tool for us to use to be better at what we do!
    tradbow hope you didnt take my post wrong but you dont have to convince me I was agreeing with you about reading ashbys studies(and thanks for posting) it is a very good read for all to read whether long bow,recurve or compound.Trust me I know all about setup for naa and nfaa as I shot pro for many years.
    Dave

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