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Thread: 300 WSM reloads extremely tight in model 70?

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    Default 300 WSM reloads extremely tight in model 70?

    I just got into reloading and have a RCBS RC press and dies. Factory ammo is fine in my chamber. All of my reloads are tight, I can drop a piece of resized brass in the chamber but as soon as I try to close the bolt I feel ALOT of resistance and have to use alot of force to close and open the bolt. Any suggestions? Rifle is a pre 64 action 300 wsm featherweight. I thought I just had a tight chamber but this is just too much, factory Winchester silver tip chambers just fine. Don't know what I'm doing wrong.

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    Where you live at in the valley? I live off of KGB, probably not setting up the size die right.how I can help you out if you live close by

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    I'm in Seward where work it and that's where I reload. I read the instructions on the RCBS dies over and over. I did some research and adjusted the die down some to push the shoulder back alittle as lots of others state might be the prob. That didn't fix it either. I even took a black marker and painted some cases and chambered them and saw no abrasions or brass thru the black indicating contact between the brass and the chamber. I trim my brass to the required trim length, everything is once fired Winchester brass , either brass or nickle plated brass. I've reloaded with this same setup for my 308, 30-06 and use FL dies for all, 308 and 30-06 chamber just fine with no resistance at all when closing the bolt, never an issue and have reloaded about 200 rds between the 2. For some reason the 300 WSM is giving me fits
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    Are you doing a full resize or just a neck resize?

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    Quote Originally Posted by billy jack View Post
    I'm in Seward where work it and that's where I reload. I read the instructions on the RCBS dies over and over. I did some research and adjusted the die down some to push the shoulder back alittle as lots of others state might be the prob. That didn't fix it either. I even took a black marker and painted some cases and chambered them and saw no abrasions or brass thru the black indicating contact between the brass and the chamber. I trim my brass to the required trim length, everything is once fired Winchester brass , either brass or nickle plated brass. I've reloaded with this same setup for my 308, 30-06 and use FL dies for all, 308 and 30-06 chamber just fine with no resistance at all when closing the bolt, never an issue and have reloaded about 200 rds between the 2. For some reason the 300 WSM is giving me fits
    Good info. Are you having issue with the resized brass before you reload it or is it with your reloads?
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    Sounds like you have a chamber at/near minimum tolerances. I had this same issue with a custom Mauser/Douglas .30-06'. My dies for this rifle are RCBS and they will not full length resize once fired brass enough to fit this chamber. Since I have a few 06's I have to start with NEW unfired brass and keep all brass from this rifle after it has been fired seperate from all others in order to avoid the problem you describe.

    Get some NEW brass and start from scratch, my bet is your problem goes away provided you are doing everything correctly. With a little luck your rifle will be the tack driver my 06' is.

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    Yep, I'm Full Length resizing. Some factory ammo it is hard to close the bolt on like Winchester power point brass cases ammo, but the Premium Winchester stuff with nickle cases I can close the bolt on no problem. Even with new ammo, after fired the bolt is hard to lift, not too bad but there is resistance, unlike any of my other bolt guns. I've always believed that I had a tight chamber and it looks like it is going that way. 338WM, Are you saying I should buy new brass, fire it then neck size only, cause running it thru my FL RCBS dies I think would put me back to where I am now. My buddy bought a set of Redding dies, I'm gonna use then and try to see if they are tighter. Is there a set of dies that are tighter spec that I might consider, or is a neck sizer with new fire formed brass the best looking solution here?

    Thanks for the input guys, looks like I'm getting somewhere here. Accuracy isn't an issue, it is a real tack driver.
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    Yes. All of my brass regardless of caliber or rifle gets only a neck resizing.A round fired in a gun will not come out any larger than the chamber in which it was fired, therefor, it will/should fit perfectly each time chambered provided all steps in the reloading process are performed correctly.

    The Redding dies may be enough of a difference, if not it is certainly less expensive to purchase NEW brass than to go after new die sets in pursuit of a solution.

    If NEW brass and then other dies do not cure what ails your rifle I would pursue a headspace gauge then, perhaps, a touch up with a reamer to the chamber.

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    I haven't seen anyone mention it yet, but have you checked the trim length on the sized brass? I had a box of winchester brass that would be fine as they came out of the chamber, but then "grow" past max length every time I re-sized them. They gave very similar symptoms if I failed to trim them.

    Yk

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    338WM, Thanks for the help. I'm gonna buy some brass and a neck sizer at Sportsman's pending the reslts of the Redding die. With new brass do you neck size it before your initial first load or FL size it or do anything to it. I'm assuming, neck size, trim to length then load, then neck size and only there after?

    And yes I trim the brass to spec.


    Quote Originally Posted by .338WM View Post
    Yes. All of my brass regardless of caliber or rifle gets only a neck resizing.A round fired in a gun will not come out any larger than the chamber in which it was fired, therefor, it will/should fit perfectly each time chambered provided all steps in the reloading process are performed correctly.

    The Redding dies may be enough of a difference, if not it is certainly less expensive to purchase NEW brass than to go after new die sets in pursuit of a solution.

    If NEW brass and then other dies do not cure what ails your rifle I would pursue a headspace gauge then, perhaps, a touch up with a reamer to the chamber.
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy jack View Post
    I'm in Seward where work it and that's where I reload. I read the instructions on the RCBS dies over and over. I did some research and adjusted the die down some to push the shoulder back alittle as lots of others state might be the prob. That didn't fix it either. I even took a black marker and painted some cases and chambered them and saw no abrasions or brass thru the black indicating contact between the brass and the chamber. I trim my brass to the required trim length, everything is once fired Winchester brass , either brass or nickle plated brass. I've reloaded with this same setup for my 308, 30-06 and use FL dies for all, 308 and 30-06 chamber just fine with no resistance at all when closing the bolt, never an issue and have reloaded about 200 rds between the 2. For some reason the 300 WSM is giving me fits
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    Yes. With new brass, run it through a full length resizing on initial loading. As for getting a neck resizing die, it is not required but, I am sure some folks prefer one. I use a full length die to neck resize by adjusting the die up from the shell holder by a gap about the thickness of a dime to a nickle, so, after running a shell through the resize die the neck will have a ridge at the bottom of the neck just above the shoulder that will fit the throat exactly and the rest of the neck will be resized to hold a bullet securely.

    Do not forget to deburr the case mouth after trimming to length.

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    Well I resized the brass again with the new die (Forster not Redding) and it didn't do anything. Buying new brass and a neck sizer from Sportsmans this week. Any suggestions on brass, does Norma or Lapua last longer and is more uniformed? I don'r want to buy brass that is tight already is what I'm getting at. The cheap Winchester brass that I have were already tight in the factory loaded power points.
    Anyone know who all carries good brass for the 300 WSM in the Anch/Valley area?
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    If you are not lubing the necks well enough, the expander die will PULL the neck forward when resizing the neck and this will cause the neck to make contact causing the bolt to be hard to close. For all my WSM dies, I replaced the expander die with a carbide one and/or polished them all. Doing this ended my similar issues when loading WSM calibers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stid2677 View Post
    If you are not lubing the necks well enough, the expander die will PULL the neck forward when resizing the neck and this will cause the neck to make contact causing the bolt to be hard to close. For all my WSM dies, I replaced the expander die with a carbide one and/or polished them all. Doing this ended my similar issues when loading WSM calibers.

    Steve
    Steve, this is the similar to issue that I was dealing with the brass the grew in length after resizing. The die was sizing the neck down a significant amount and the expander ball was "pulling" the neck out longer on it's way back through.

    I caught the fact that he was trimming it to spec, but if the die is yanking the brass, then it makes a difference if you trim before or after resizing. That said, pulling the shoulder out of spec as mentioned by Steve is probably a more likely case. I've ran across that too. In both cases it would be a problem with either lack of neck lube or tight fit with the expander ball.

    Yk

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    Start with the dies you have and set them so that they touch the shell holder when the press is extended fully, then turn about another 1/8 to quarter of a turn. If your chamber is on the small side and your dies on the large size, you may need to "cam over" just a bit on the press to set the shoulder back enough. Neck sizing all the time is not a good idea for a huntng round. The brass WILL get tighter with subsequent firings when all you do is neck size. It springs back less with each firing. You will need to set the shoulder back some. You can go with a neck die and a body die, or just a full length die. My preferred setup is a Redding Body die converted to a bushing neck die and honed to match the chamber. That way you are working your brass less and not pulling anything back through the neck after it is sized. Before you spend the money on more dies, I would try setting the die so it cams over the last 4-6 inches on the press stroke. I had to do that with my custom 300WSM with factory dies before I got the custom setup.
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    In regards to the wsm calibers in general, I thought it was a no-no to only neck size, that the shoulder MUST be set back because of the case design. I load for the 325wsm as does Stid, same case as the 300wsm and will add a +1 to lube the inside of the neck and also setting up your dies as blackfoot mentions. I'd try that before throwing any more mud/money against the wall.
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    This is why you should measure ALL brass after resizing, not before. When you resize a case it makes most deminsions a tad smaller and sometimes this makes the case longer. Afterall, the brass has to go some where.

    Make sure the bolt face is clean. If residue builds up it will cause resistence as well. Also ran into problems with a couple of rifles that were refinished. Sometimes the finishing material coated the bolt face to thick. Lots of reasons, just work on one at a time until you fix it.
    One final though, are you setting the primers deep enough? A protruding primer could cause this as well.

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    Primers are fully seated, brass trimmed to trim length after sizing. I've gone as far as 1 full turn past where you should be as per everyone's instructions and the instructions of the package, bolt face is clean. I just got back from firing 5 factory 180 gr Winchester ballistic silver tips. Before I fired them they would cycle with no resistance upon closing or opening. I fired all 5 2 hours ago and they ejected easily. Now that my rifle is warm and dry I reinserted each piece of once fired brass I just shot and same thing, hard as hell to close the bolt, on 2 extremely hard to close. I don't know if the temp has something to do with it all, I just checked the weather and it is -3, 3 belo zero here in Seward, I don't know what it was at 02:30 pm here but I assume a few degrees above. I'm pretty sure it's my chamber. I have one of the first 300WSM's made in the model 70, 2001 I think. My friend just bought the Extreme all weather model 70 in 300 WSM, by FN, and I now remember we sized brass together and the ones that were sticky in mine fit in his. Can a gunsmith ream a chamber easily or is it a huge ordeal? The 5 shot group was under an inch except 1 rd, I think it was my cold bore shot, it would make since with the cold temp I was firing in.
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    If you have problems with some factory loads, then it must be a very tight / short chamber and probably needs to be opened up a little. Might be you could lap the bolt lugs a little to gain a little headspace.

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