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Thread: Solar passive green house

  1. #1
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    Default Solar passive green house

    I have read many books on green house construction and also the use of a passive solar systems for green houses. I was wondering if anyone has any practical experience with this type of system in Alaska. Also I was wondering about green house pest and their management with natural methods instead of the use of pesticides. All pros and cons of the Alaska green house would be greatly appreciated.

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    Rich pests are not a big problem up here, maybe aphids if you have something they like but soap and cold water takes care of them. A far as a truley passive greenhouse, its just not possible we have to many days of cloud cover in a row to count on a heat sink being able to reatain enough energy to maintain temps even with ground level thermal breaks primary glazing and an inner material creating an airgap.

    A stand alone to the elements twin wall greenhouse adds about $12 a month to the gas bill in the 12X16 variety in the winter at 55 degrees. There really is no other way rock and water drums only add an extra month and get you going a couple weeks early I've even dabbled with compost heat in a greenhouse during winter up here and they just peter out about december.

    The problem I ran into is that in order to get the interior hot enough to retain enough heat in your heat sink is that it gets to warm for what your trying to grow and then by morning the temo swing is just to much and then plants start to wilt if its over cast things are dead by the third or fourth day in freezing conditions.

    This year I am trying hydro in the garage in the winter, I want to start aqua culture next year if this works out, probably using rainbows or tilapia if I can order them.

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    rich, i posted about it on your other thread. look into solar thermal panels that heat a glycol loop, and with a heat exchanger heat an additional loop of freshwater that circulates into a large tank. You have the water enter the tank at the top, inside of a long pvc tube the runs the length of the tank, with tees every 4 or 6 inches. The water sinks based on temperature till it reaches its density, and exits into the tank. You can even add an additional loop using a small 40 gallon tank within the tank for your domestic hot water. It really isn't all the much plumbing. There are some quality german manfucturers producing highly efficient pumps that would require just a trickle from a battery to run the loops. You can bury this tank and store the heat. beneath an insulated structure.


    Greenhouses need to be well ventilated here in the summer so you really can't use your greenhouse as the heat collecting mechanism for a heat sink. There isn't enough insulating power in clear materials to make a 4 season worthwhile. The only exception is areas with a free source of hot water, i.e. hot springs. I think you might be outclassed trying to buy a hotsprings, but the next best thing is heating water with the sun, i.e. solar thermal, not solar electric.

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    rdrash
    awesome post thanks for sharing your hands on with me. Do you have many fungi problems. If so what are some of the ways you deal with that other then the use of fungicide.

    How about cold frames up there do they help in the early and late season.

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    rdrash
    Is your soil in your area have perma frost under it or is it void of the perma frost like the soil in my build area in the Nikiski area?

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    andweav

    Thanks I will check in out.
    Your on point, No money to buy the hot springs lol. Greenhouse/Hot house must be for off grid use. Energy and temp control is the challenge.

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    I have a guy in the l48 that is setting up some kind of greenhouse that will work in our dark cold enviroment here is a link to his product http://lonestaraquaticfarms.com/?page_id=313
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironartist View Post
    I have a guy in the l48 that is setting up some kind of greenhouse that will work in our dark cold enviroment here is a link to his product http://lonestaraquaticfarms.com/?page_id=313
    Thanks for the lead on the green house, I would also like to add the I like your groups.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ironartist View Post
    I have a guy in the l48 that is setting up some kind of greenhouse that will work in our dark cold enviroment here is a link to his product http://lonestaraquaticfarms.com/?page_id=313
    thats some interesting stuff iron!
    Semper Fi!

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    I believe the best design in Alaska is a south facing lean-to shed design with a super insulated north wall and thermal break foundation or raised insulated floor. No need for windows on the north side. You still need to add heat at night - no sun - no heat - thermal loss is too high no matter how efficient. I use a small propane wall heater. As sun hours increase - supplemental heat decreases. I use bottom watering planters and a bulk reservoir. May try a solar heat exchanger to warm the irrigation tank. I start plants indoors under lights in March. Move to the heated greenhouse in April and out to an unheated hoop tunnel by end of May. I have a solar powered vent fan and solar window openers. http://chateau-listeur.blogspot.com/...aska-time.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by WasillaPlanter View Post
    I believe the best design in Alaska is a south facing lean-to shed design with a super insulated north wall and thermal break foundation or raised insulated floor. No need for windows on the north side. You still need to add heat at night - no sun - no heat - thermal loss is too high no matter how efficient. I use a small propane wall heater. As sun hours increase - supplemental heat decreases. I use bottom watering planters and a bulk reservoir. May try a solar heat exchanger to warm the irrigation tank. I start plants indoors under lights in March. Move to the heated greenhouse in April and out to an unheated hoop tunnel by end of May. I have a solar powered vent fan and solar window openers. http://chateau-listeur.blogspot.com/...aska-time.html
    Jim great Blog the time and effort you put into it really shows in the quality of it. Looking through it I was wondering what wood you used for your raised beds

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    My raised beds are made from treated wood. The frame is inexpensive landscape timbers and treated 2x4s the sides are treated 3/8" plywood. Rufus Chaney at the USDA reported. “There’s no evidence that food safety is impaired by growing vegetables around CCA-treated wood. High levels of inorganic arsenic in soil will kill a plant before there’s enough arsenic in the plant itself for you to consider not eating it.” You have to decide for yourself if you feel it is safe.

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