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Thread: Polaris Indy 340 problem

  1. #1
    Member aufevermike's Avatar
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    Default Polaris Indy 340 problem

    Hey Guys, I am posting this for a freind to try and figure this out cause I sure as hell can't. He has (2) 2005 Indy classics that do the same thing and we can't figure it out. They will start and idle just fine. At first when they started acting up you could go maybe 3-10 miles and then it would bog down you couldn't get it to take any gas, like it was fouling plugs but that wasn't the case.. You could lift up the track and it would spin, but not under load. I have gone through the carbs both indoors and out in the field. Both were very clean, even checked the piolt jets and main jets. Since this is happening to both machines I feel that it is not fuel related. You can rev them up but it just won't accelerate. Now it does right from the get go, not just after you had been riding it for a while. It progressively got worse. I'm sure I am thinking about this too hard and it right there in front of me. Any ideas would surely be appreciated.
    Thanx

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    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    I think the fact that it is happening to both machines, it probably is fuel. The only common link between two machines can be fuel. I'd drain everything and start all over with fresh fuel from a different source. Also, what temps was this happening at? My 340's are really temperamental with main jets that are too large for warm temps. The fact that it now does it right out of the gate points to bad fuel even more.

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    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKDoug View Post
    I think the fact that it is happening to both machines, it probably is fuel. The only common link between two machines can be fuel. I'd drain everything and start all over with fresh fuel from a different source. Also, what temps was this happening at? My 340's are really temperamental with main jets that are too large for warm temps. The fact that it now does it right out of the gate points to bad fuel even more.
    What he said. In my opinion and experience (S), the same kind of trouble doesn't happen in twos unless there is a common link, which could only be bad fuel. I had a similar problem with two chainsaws recently. Start over with good fresh fuel and some Seafoam.

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    Member aufevermike's Avatar
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    That's just it. Sorry for got to mention that we did drain one of the machines completely of gas and added fresh gas. After that we even let it idles for a few minutes after that. Still started and idled just fine. JUst didn't seem to want to take on the power from the the engine. Lifting up the track it would take it but not when setting it back down on the ground. It would get going if you ran along the side of it and tried to push it a bit sometimes, nut as soon as you jumped it wouldn't take on the power.

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    I agree with the other posters. Only other thing I can think of is if both machines have the same jetting and it isn't set up for the temp/altitude you are running.

  6. #6

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    the sleds are 6 years old, has he ever had the clutches gone through? We had a older sks that did the same thing, went through the fuel systems, plugs etc.....nothing changed until a friend changed the primary spring in the primary clutch. it brought the sled back immediately.

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Given the fuel system work I would move to the clutches and start with thoroughly cleaning them. We use brake cleaner and a green scotchbrite pad.

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    Member aufevermike's Avatar
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    Now that I didn't think of. Should I disassemble the primary and sparay everything down with the brake cleaner. The sheaves on the secondary seem to open and close just fine while spreading them manually.or do I pay special attention in scrubbing the area where the belts lives?
    Thanx again all. seems like we'll concentrate on the cluctches now

  9. #9
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    First I would concentrate on the belt surfaces. If they were stored in the same place there could be oxidation or dirt on them causing both sleds to exhibit the same symptom. Also look at the belts, they can get a buildup on their sides from slipping that can cause them not to grip. If it isn't too bad it may be able to be scrubbed off, if they are bad then replace em. I am certainly no sled guru but doing that brought my friends M7 back to life last week.

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    Don't spray them with brake cleaner. Some of the plastic parts and the composite bushings could be affected by the chemical in the cleaner. Do you have the tools necessary to disassemble the clutches?
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    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aufevermike View Post
    That's just it. Sorry for got to mention that we did drain one of the machines completely of gas and added fresh gas. After that we even let it idles for a few minutes after that. Still started and idled just fine. JUst didn't seem to want to take on the power from the the engine. Lifting up the track it would take it but not when setting it back down on the ground. It would get going if you ran along the side of it and tried to push it a bit sometimes, nut as soon as you jumped it wouldn't take on the power.
    Almost sounds like a 340 I borrowed one time and we went to Eureka....ran good till we got way back and it warmed up. Had to run alongside to get it going, most times down hill. It was a turd all day.

    Check the fuel filters if you have not already changed them. Also are you 100% sure the enrichment circuits (Choke) are closing completely. If the little plungers do not seat completely back they will bypass fuel and make them run rich. You can try taking them off and putting something in the hole so that it will not allow fuel to pass and see if things improve.

    As far as disassembling the clutch you can do it without a press but not recommended. Takes two strong armed people. I use to do my primaries and secondaries by sitting on them when away from home. I did make a trailside press now that have some springs on my newer sleds pushing over 250 pounds per inch. Used a piece of flat plate steel, all thread, a fender washer, a regular washer, a lock washer and 2 nuts. You can eliminate the lock washer with one flanged nut. This will allow you to take the primary covers off and hold things in place to take the 2ndary apart.

    Clean the sheaves from top to bottom with a scotch bright pad and alcohol. Could also use brake clean or Berryman's carb cleaner just keep it off any plastic pieces. No finger prints on the sheaves. On reassembly a touch of oil on contact points, just ensure it does not get anywhere that the belt runs.

  12. #12
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Good points, we only use brake cleaner on the sheaves.

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    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    You might have a weak CDI box. With low spark they can handle the amount of fuel at idle, but when you throttle up they flood the spark. Find someone with the same CDI and swap them out for a test run.
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