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Thread: Modifying the Fresh water system

  1. #1
    Member JR2's Avatar
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    Default Modifying the Fresh water system

    I have a 30 gallon water tank in the floor of my boat that feeds one very small sink with a cheesy little electric pump that is screwed straight into the tank. I took the pump out this fall and drained my tank (into my boat and the bilge pump pushed it overboard). This whole adventure got md to to thinking, is there any reason I could not change the cheesy little pump out for a camper style pressure pump? I would also change the faucet to a standard camper style one instead of the little goofy one that has the controls for the pump on it. If I swap to a regular camper style pump and all I could have the added benefit of being able to run a line out to the back deck for a freshwater wash down (aka empty the tank so I don't have to haul it home).

    Thoughts?

    All it would really require is running a new power wire from my main fuse block to the pump and maybe installing a switch to disable the pump and then plumb it all in.
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

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    JR - I have a Kingfisher 2525 and was thinking along similar lines - except rather than hook up the freshwater tank to a washdown pump, I would attach a permanent drain hose to the bottom of the freshwater tank that extends to near the stern drain plug. That way, after a trip I could simply open the valve and have the water drain out the back.

    Your idea is a good one.

  3. #3

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    Not sure if I understand this, You remove tank ? why not use RV water line anti-freeze. I used to keep my boat on the Hudson river we got to -15 not what you guys can get to but a couple gallons of RV anti freeze flushed through did the job. It's rated to -50 below should work for you. Just flush till the pink color disappears in the spring they say you can drink it, we never did.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by JR2 View Post
    I could have the added benefit of being able to run a line out to the back deck for a freshwater wash down (aka empty the tank so I don't have to haul it home).
    No helpful thoughts on the modification, I don't see the problem with an electric pump.

    On the filling and draining: 30 gallons of water is 250 pounds, so why fill the whole tank on the outbound trip, if you're not going to need that much? OTOH, I wouldn't fully drain it, make sure you still have at least a couple of gallons left to drink for safety, just in case something unexpected happens on the return trip.
    Inspiration is simply the momentary cessation of stupidity.

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    Member JR2's Avatar
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    Dale C - My wife has an aversion to RV antifreeze. I don't like it either. Makes the water taste like crap. I used to use it on the campers I own, but with a little thought a guy can completely drain a water system and not have to make his water taste bad. I still use RV antifreeze in the bilge, washdown pump, holding tank and for the fish hold pumps.

    Seraphina - all I can say is that I am a boy scout. Never leave the harbor without full fuel and full water and extra food. You never know what will happen and having 15 gallons of clean water with you might be a good thing. With that said I also bring at least a case of bottled water with me as well.. overkill but I can not help it.
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

  6. #6

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    I totally agree on the extra fuel, food, and water. So why do you want to dump the tank on the return leg?
    Obviously no problem to dump the tank with a case of bottled on hand, but that's still a lot of extra weight.
    Can you satisfy your inner boy scout by mentally redefining "full" to mean fewer gallons for shorter trips?

    And again, I don't see the problem with an electric pump, what are your reasons for wanting to change it?
    Inspiration is simply the momentary cessation of stupidity.

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    Member JR2's Avatar
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    The reason for changing is that right now I have a very very small electric pump (about the size of 1/2 of a beer can) that is controlled by the flimsy plastic faucet.. ie when you move the knob, water comes out. I would like to get rid of that faucet and put a better one in there, one that actually works. To do that I have to change the pump and I might as well add some plumbing at allow for a washdown hose (that can also drain tank).

    Normally I don't drain the tank, especially if I am in Whittier.. its only on the long trips from Anchroage to Homer that I could do with out the extra weight in the boat.
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

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    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
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    JR,
    Go ahead and change it shouldn't cause any problems, just remember to winterize the pump, or better yet , remove it for the winter. I had a nice compact pressure pump on the bowpicker and just a couple of drops of water freezing in there over the winter cracked the pump housing and turned it into junk.

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    Member JR2's Avatar
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    Potbuilder - I usually pour RV antifreeze in the intakes of all the pumps. I did that this fall to the wash down and both fish box pumps. Heck I even poured antifreeze in the turd tank and ran the pump out until I had it running down the side of the boat. The last thing I want to do is have to crawl down into the bowels of my boat and try and replace one of those pumps. Heck some of them I can hardly see and I have no idea how I would get to them.
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

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    Did you ever put some of that 50 below stuff in the freezer at home? I did and it slushes up pretty fast and i'd bet at 15-20 below it might just be solid. Those pumps are pretty thin plastic inside and i bet just some pressure from some 1/2 frozen antifreeze would screw up something inside. I'll continue to pull my pumps out for the winter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    Did you ever put some of that 50 below stuff in the freezer at home? I did and it slushes up pretty fast and i'd bet at 15-20 below it might just be solid. Those pumps are pretty thin plastic inside and i bet just some pressure from some 1/2 frozen antifreeze would screw up something inside. I'll continue to pull my pumps out for the winter.
    Great news! One more thing with which to concern myself this spring!

  12. #12

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    Thanks for clarifying the problem, now I finally understand your original post. Sounds like a reasonable switch-out, I hope the modification goes well for you.

    I'm still curious why you'd need to run a new power wire from the main fuse block to the pump. Does the existing wire go to the sink instead of to the pump?

    If you do decide to take your water pump inside for the winter, I wonder if you can attach the pump with a quick coupler, to make that annual chore easier?
    Inspiration is simply the momentary cessation of stupidity.

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    Member pacific23's Avatar
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    Because it's a Potable Water tank is why there is not a dump valve in the bilge or a wash down hose attached to it , it is to prevent CROSS CONTAMINATION .
    Now to install a bigger pump, better hose/line, new faucet ......Get it on.

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    I took the pump out this fall and drained my tank (into my boat and the bilge pump pushed it overboard).
    _________

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