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Thread: new gc advice

  1. #21

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    Thanks Guys, I don't why I didn't think of doing this earlyier. This has been a problem from day one when we had a load on or several people fishing off the rear.

  2. #22

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    The 27' Coho is the one boat we build that is on the line for an extended CET, maybe yes, maybe no. It will depend on several factors. The weight of the motors, how many fuel tanks and location, weight distribution in the boat, etc. The boat was originally not designed with an extended CET, but we have extended several of the 27' coho's with no adverse effects, seems to be all positive. The increased planing surface will reduce the on step energy needed and you will benefit, if needed from the extra buoyancy.
    The only possible adverse effect would be an increased possibility of prop cavitation when on step.
    We will build the boat with an extended CET if the customer request's it. If your CET is already built we would be happy to extend/ enclose it for you apron you request.



    Quote Originally Posted by icram View Post
    im told my 27ft coho will be completed soon. it looks close at least. in the spirit of positive thinking, i would like to solicit advice and suggestions from current owners. what would you have differently during the rigging, motoring, electronics. any odds and ends you added later when the boat was in use that you would like to share. of course im particularly interested in owners of 27 footers. ill take any thoughts you have. the boat layout is pretty simple. a heater, head, considering a stove. (type?) motors will be twin suzuki 175hp. no electronics chosen yet.
    i know this may be old territory. i have read past posts. perhaps there are some more thoughts out there.
    thank you

  3. #23

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    So approximately how many inches did you all have to lower your engines after adding the extended transom? I've got dry feet now, but also prop cavitation and as a result poorer fuel rate. The motors were mounted with the top of the motor mount on the top of the transom plate. So to lower the motors further, I now have to cut the plate down, and drill new holes. I'm guessing 2"-3"?

  4. #24
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    I had to add the transom extension to a 32 x 11 because it was very stern heavy. The engines were lowered two inches after the hull extension and I have no problems with cavitation. Roughly you should be able to look along the top of your cavition plate on your engine and it should be at hull level or a little lower. How far apart are your engines on the transom plate? It also had a hard list to port so I had to move the 4 - 6volt house batteries to the starboard and move the 11 gal hot water heater to the centerline in the cuddy. This was a do it yourself project over the winter.

    Over the last weekend my wife and I did some long runs and went from Whittier to Cordova, Chenega and back to Whittier and only used the trim in rougher water to lower the bow in to the waves.

  5. #25
    Member kaisersosei's Avatar
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    Aug 2006
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    I would consider an Espar B3 heater. It is gasoline powered and I am loving it in my new boat. It is comforting to know that you have a month's worth of heating fuel if you should ever get stranded out there due to weather in the winter. I leave the heater on as soon as I launch and don't shut it off until I get it out of the water and it only uses a few gallons over the weekend. I have been on mine several times now and I am getting 2.3 MPG with modest load. (29 mph on GPS at 4600 rpm) and top end of 43MPH. I have a single 300 Suzuki with a small kicker. I am loving the combo!

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