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Thread: Lift for 19' Grumman Square Stern, That Works?

  1. #1
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    Default Lift for 19' Grumman Square Stern, That Works?

    I am looking for photos and dimensions of a lift set-up for a 19' Grumman square stern that works without having a 'skirt' installed (rubber or canvas).

    I have a 19' Grumman square stern with a lift and a 15hp Johnson. It spills water, big time, in the back of the boat when under power.

    This is my second Grumman setup, the first being like the one I have now, only it put a coffee cup or two of water in the boat every 45 minutes, or so. I believe the issue is the way the current lift back board is angled and possibly how high it is in relation to the top of the square stern.

    If you have a 19' Grumman that has a lift with out a skirt, and you use a 15hp Johnson 2-stroke, and you do not have problems with water spilling in the back, I would be interested in finding out more about your set up, its dimensions, the angle of the backboard, etc...

    Photos and dimensions would be great, or, if you live in the interior (especially the Fairbanks area), I would be interested in seeing it in person.

    This is my winter project, so any and all information is welcome.

  2. #2

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    Sid will chime in here I'm sure. I think he has a fix for the splash with just a 2x4.

  3. #3
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    I have one that leaks very little, what you do with a lift is put a 2x4 on top of transom an exten it over the back end an sides about 3/4 inch in the back an like wise on the sides , then mount the lift so it is setting on the wood centered from side to side an the lift is setting on the 2x4 back edge, put 2 bolts 1/4" by 4" through the 2x4 so it won't break off, 2 bolts 3/8" by 3" through the wood through the holes in the top of transom on the sides, the lift will be mounted, so the eng. will miss the wood when you lift the unit. the pivot rod will be mounted on top of a pice of wood that is on top of the gunnels , use some " C " CLAMPS to hold it on the canoe befor drilling holes an play with the 1.5 " you will be supprised at how little effort to lift the eng. PS the iron rod that goes across the back end canbe made so you can remove the lift to car top it, then seal it all with RTV [ wood to metal ] drop me a PM am I will give you a call SID hope I made my point getting old the lift is the one that was made in Fairbanks

  4. #4

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    I guess I am a little curious why you are so against a skirt? We use a very simple "skirt" with ours that works well and doesn't get in the way at all. It is a rectangle just slightly larger than the gap between the lift and the top of the transome when the lift is at it's highest point (so it overlaps just a little over the transome) and the same width as the transome. Nothing is needed along the sides at all. When lowered down, it just sits between the motor and the transome. Just secure it to the bottom of the mounting plate on the back of the lift.

    Another thing to consider is the angle that the motor is set at itself. One notch one way or the other can really impact the water it kicks up against the transome. Play with a couple settings and see what works best.

  5. #5
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    I don't have anything against a skirt for the lift, only indicating that I know it worked for me at one time without having to use one.
    From the answers posted, it looks like I just need to try the suggested options and see if they work for my set-up.

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    That sounds like that may work.
    What do you use for the skirt material?
    Thanks.

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    For my 19'er's skirt, on my Klingel lift, I used a material referred to as Shelter-rite ... a heavy duty vinyl coated material ... 22 oz/sq yard. Very tough. And after 10 years of hard use, it was dirty, but without flaw, when I sold the Grumman with lift and skirt last summer. Its also used to make the toughest tarps for covering loads on the Haul Road. I've also used it for the bottoms of lightweight racing sled beds for the Yukon Quest and Iditarod. Its a tough material.

    Here's a link to a discussion of motors,lifts and skirts, etc ... in entry #38 there is a pic of my lift and skirt.

    http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/...tor-size/page2

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by slowpoke View Post
    That sounds like that may work.
    What do you use for the skirt material?
    Thanks.
    I think we use the same or a very similar material to what Rick just mentioned. Works well. The backwash from the outboard essentially seals it agaist the transome of the canoe.

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    Thanks for the reference to the older links on this forum, on how to make the splash skirt for a 19' square stern Grumman.

    The velcro idea is what I was looking for. I have seen skirts on some Grummans that were screwed to both the lift and the boat, with runner strips. By that method, you were not able to remove your lift for transporting the boat. You would have to dis-assemble the whole thing.

    The velcro method sounds like the ticket.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by slowpoke View Post
    Thanks for the reference to the older links on this forum, on how to make the splash skirt for a 19' square stern Grumman.

    The velcro idea is what I was looking for. I have seen skirts on some Grummans that were screwed to both the lift and the boat, with runner strips. By that method, you were not able to remove your lift for transporting the boat. You would have to dis-assemble the whole thing.

    The velcro method sounds like the ticket.
    The skirts we use do not wrap around the entire lift. They are just a rectangle the same width as the transome and attached only to the engine mounting plate (usually by two screw/bolts at the bottom, one on each corner. Never had any problem with water coming in over the sides at the stern of the boat, but I could see some potential benefit if you get hit with a following wave. I like having the full lift available to grab onto when dragging from the back to get off a rock or off the beach.

    I'm sure it depends on your vehicle and method of transport, but we have never seen a need to remove the lifts when transporting. Usually just tie the handle down at the gunnel of the canoe (so the lift is in it's fully up position). The leading edge of the lift sits right about even with the rear of the vehicle and the lift hangs out the back.

    Here are a couple of pics of our setup a couple years ago when we had 3 freighters going with us for the hunt. Worked a lot better than we expected.

    Canoes 2.jpg
    Canoes.jpg

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    I've never removed either the lift or skirt from my 19'er for truck top hauling. I always locked the lift-handle in the "lifted" position, so that the handle wouldn't be a problem. After several years of truck topping, I bought a modest boat trailer. And then relegated truck topping to the past.

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    forgot to say the 2 x 4 should put the caveration plate of the 15 OmC even with the bottom of canoe it did mine an yes you can leave the lift on the canoe but I had a few problems with it coming of the hook an the center of graverty was to high for me so I just take it off less weight to move around as most of the time I was by my self an dog an the grand kids were to small to help much ,
    the water will boil up that is why it hung over a little an it was sealed it cut it down a lot, still get a little but I live with it low cost on my doing s I tried the skirt an that made it keep the lift on, so I just take the lift off an go it works for me sid

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    two things to remember #1 my rig was put together in 1981 an still giong strong an #2 if you think your canoe caveates to much make the 2x4 thinner, you be supprize what a 1/4 inch will do for you [a piece of good PLY 1 inch thick] a lot of the rigs out there just evoled into what they have, the omly time it will change is when it don't work, when they got the lift it was installed an we live with it,
    it is a fact when you put the 19FT on a truck or car with the lift on, with one person the canoe keeps trying to turn over,
    when the lift is up an on the hook the canoe is unstable in the back, [ by the way my is off after the 2nd pair of hip boots with a hole in it from the hook] for people that don't know, the hook holes the lift up with the eng. on it, SID

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