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Thread: trap prep...dye and wax on older traps...boiling snares....

  1. #1

    Default trap prep...dye and wax on older traps...boiling snares....

    Just curiuos what is the purpose of the dye? Why are we darkening our traps when we are setting in white snow?

    I understand some wax some dont......some of my older traps are waxed and used 2 years...I've reboiled them again this year more then a few times, there's still wax on them, though barely they are wax needed? does it help reduce the metal smell?

    I am working the pans and dogs on some number 2 coils right now...just a few, making the stepped notch in the pan for that 'click'....nothign else better to do while boiling snares . All of these are dyed black. Do I need to clean them and re dye them? Or can I just reboil?

    If you dont have to redye traps every often do you redye?

    My understanding is the dye is there to keep the traps from rusting to badily...other than that it serves no function.

    If you dip in the gas long is recommended they sit before boiling and using?

    Kinda stinks doing this mid season...I have a limited number of traps (always looking for more ....I have no martin traps if anyone has some 110's they'd part with?, or 2-3-4 coils or longs for dogs and cats, I dont need a ton, as I have a limited area itslef to trap...though I did find a new area no one is trapping and no one has trapped in years, I may check it out this weekend).....and my experience is minimal.....I've caught fur but very irregularly in years past, mostly in snares at that. WHen I finally figured my leg hold spots out, fur started getting stolen (close to town), quite flustering. Now I found some better hidy holes where people dont get out of their rigs and cant see my sets, but cant catch the fur....I'm mostly dog trapping. Got lynx all around me but so far no takers on anything....trail sets track sets, cubby, and some blind snares on hare trails.....Did managed to call one in, actually called in 5 last weekend, only saw one....stunning critters to say the least!

    I'm boiling my snares in baking soda...shoudl I add spruce bows? I'm pouring water in to float the crud off the pot...oh 5 or 6 times a set till its boiling clean....this last set I think I Have to redo. I know better than to dye or wax there any other way to get that metal smell out?

    Lastly how long do you guys hang before setting? I'm boiling in winter...and setting a couple days later, is this adequte for both snares or legholds? I know longer may be limited time and a small pot to boil in. That and I like calling also....cant spend every waking moment watching water boil haha.

    Thanks for the prep tips...any and all tips are welcomed! I definatly can use all the help I can get....tomorrow off to my dog line and some calling.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Outta Big Lake


    I think the point in dieting is to darken traps for in the lower 48 where most of the trappin is done in dirt
    Eccleasties 8:11 Because the sentence against an evil deed is not executed quickly, There for the hearts of the sons of men among them are given fully to do evil.

  3. #3
    Member Blue Mist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009


    The reason for dye is obvious on a shiny new trap, on a rusty trap the dying process tends to get rid of the flakey rust and keeps the trap from rusting as much. Often your leg holds will be inside a cubby that you can use pine needles, grass or, other natural material for cover rather than snow as the cubby should keep a lot of snow off. The dark works good here. Are you using pan covers? If setting in snow and covering with snow I use white pan covers over the pan and under the jaws. In cubbies for lynx, or wolverine you don't have to worry as much about covering your traps although I tend to do so anyway. Hang your traps away from the house and house smells, I prefer high in a spruce tree. Just let them hang until you need them. After you make a catch re-set with a clean trap and bring the used trap home and reboil. I personally use a small space blanket to kneal on while setting a trap in the snow, it helps with the scent issue. I also sewed plastic patches on my coveralls so my knees would not get wet and spread my scent. After you boil your snares and get the manufacturing oil off, If you can find a slough that looks like "Rusty" water soak your snares in it for about a week and it will make a great dark color on new snares with no smell. If you wax be quick and not too much wax, scrape the wax off the dog and notch. Put a nail in the jaws to keep them slightly open when boiling and waxing. Most of this is pretty basic but some of it might be helpful ~Mist~

  4. #4
    Member martentrapper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Fairbanks, Ak.


    In Alaska, dying and waxing doesn't do all that much. Especially in the Interior, corrosion isn't too bad and steel traps don't put off that much scent. Boil new traps to remove any oils, but that is about all you need to do. I re-use traps after they catch something, unless they are really bloody.
    Waxing will make them a little faster sometimes.
    Traps don't need any more boiling after dipping. Just let them hang and air out.
    I boil snares in soda water also, to get the shine off.
    I can't help being a lazy, dumb, weekend warrior.......I have a JOB!
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