Any place to purchase a Savage 99 308 scout scope mount?
The front of the receiver has two screw holes(for a scope base), and you would think that where I knocked out the rear sight (because I use an XS ghost ring), a sight plug set in the barrel with a tightening screw would make a good spot for a scout base(three spots to tighten the base down). I'm sure someone has made one.
I'm never going to remove that nice ghost ring rear sight ( one rear scope base screw hole, and one drilled/tapped hole), but would like a scout scope option.
I have a stick of universal picatinny rail but I don't have the time to hand machine it into a rail. The forearm uses a wedge that is similar to a plug that you would put in the barrel to protect your hands when you remove a rear sight off the barrel. The only difference is that is has a threaded sleeve attached to it to accept the fore arm screw. I could drill and tap a fatter plug and have it centered on the barrel and soldered in place or something. I just don't seem to have the time to finish making the scout mount.
I can't seem to find a scout mount, so I'm trying to build one myself with hand tools. I need to find a small sanding drum that is EXACTLY the right diameter as the front of the Savage 99 receiver so I can make the front of the scout scope mount fit skin tight and square on the top of the receiver. I will then purchase the biggest sight plug I can find and drill/tap it to accept a screw. The sight plug will also be drilled/tapped for a set screw that will keep it from moving. The set screw will be to the side, and will tighten down against the barrel.
Of course this thing looks crude right now, but I will try to get it as flush and true to the bore as I can. The square edges will take on a more rounded look too. I set a scope base beside the picatinny rail so you can see the round shape i'm looking for. with the diameter determined, I'm going to the hardware store to find a little sanding/grinding drum that will fit in a drill. I'll look for one that is the same exact diameter. I was thinking a bore laser set at 10 yds. and a laser level set flush on top of the mount will help me fit it perfectly to the bore. Measure the distance at 10 yds, and measure the distance in front of the bore, and remove a tiny bit of metal at a time. If I fail, I could always use a shim.
Have you looked at the Clifton mount? I believe they're available at XS Sights. I've seen a couple of those installed on various rifles with good success.
Yes, I thought of the Clifton mount but I'm not too crazy about taking brownell's glass bedding compound and bonding the rail to the barrel like their's is designed to do. I'd rather have a few screws attaching it and detaching it as needed. I need a drill press for drilling the holes square though, and I don't have one.
Get you some plumbers epoxy sticks (Lowes/Home Depot in pluming) and pull a mold off the receiver with it using wax so it will come off. Then put emery cloth inside the mold, a layer of the epoxy then a dowel so you glued the emery to the stick in the shape of the inside of your mold. Now you have a finishing tool to profile sand your base on that is the exact profile you need, when you use it go front to back not side to side. Grease pen the receiver (I just use the wifeís lipstick) and keep working till you get solid contact.
You should be fine drilling set screw holes with a hand drill, just start with a small pilot hole and take your time. If you are tapping set screws into aluminum use a Heli-Coil so the threads last, the Heli-Coil sets come with some coils, tap, tool to put them in, and sometimes even a drill bit. Donít know what size you want, Napa stocks them but maybe not that small so here is a #10X32 set so you know what Iím talking about.