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Thread: Bedding jobs how to

  1. #1

    Default Bedding jobs how to

    Any one planning a glass bedding job on a rifle in Fairbanks (or surrounding area) any time soon? I've always wanted to learn how. I've watched every youtube video and have read countless articles on the process but would like to see it for real. If you wouldn't mind me watching over your shoulder shoot me a PM. Thanks.

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    Just to let you know, it really is as easy as it looks. There are steps you need to take, and precautions to heed, and everything will turn out fine. No need to get too anxious. Get a box of Acra-glass gel and follow the directions. It'll turn out good.
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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    I am looking forward to fitting and bedding my first rifle in the near future. It isn't one I really use on a regular basis so I am not to worried about going about it on my own. The hope is to have it all dressed up for a future hunt w/ my old man when I can finally convince him to make a trip back up this way.

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    Member hntr's Avatar
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    Piece of cake. Some good information that I gathered after doing a few, and I don't beleive it is in the acra glass instructions, was to put two layers of electrical tape on the front, bottom and sides of the recoil lug, then put release agent on top of the tape along with the rest of the contact areas.

  5. #5

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    The place I've seen guys get in the most trouble is horking down the action too far when you put it in to let the bedding set up. All kinds of cobb can be raised from canting the action to driving the trigger right down into the guard, not to mention problems with mag box/floor plate.

    Easy solution is before you remove any stock material, run a small flathead brass screw right down flush to the stock under the tang, and two more behind the recoil lug- one on either side. Leave em there while you're removing stock material, as well as when you add the Acraglas andscrew the lock back down into place. I don't know what else to call them other than "indexing" screws, but they're priceless for heading off any future troubles other than release agent failure.

    I learned the trick close to 50 years ago from a smith who was always trying to salvage stocks after guys had saturated the inletting with gun oil for a few years, turning it punky and soft so the action was all over the place. Only solution was to install the indexing screws, hog out all that punked wood, then glass bed. Slick, and worth doing on any bedding job.

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Anyone know where locally I can get the stuff to pillar bed and glass a my ruger M77? According to the USPS tracker my stock should be in today so it would be nice to track down the materials so I can start. Is this stuff off the shelf at Sportsmans? I am in the valley and don't plan to go to Anchorage real soon so a local source would be ideal!

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    Quote Originally Posted by LuJon View Post
    Anyone know where locally I can get the stuff to pillar bed and glass a my ruger M77? According to the USPS tracker my stock should be in today so it would be nice to track down the materials so I can start. Is this stuff off the shelf at Sportsmans? I am in the valley and don't plan to go to Anchorage real soon so a local source would be ideal!
    I'm in the middle of pillar bedding a Ruger 77 w/factory plastic stock.
    I used Devcon 10110 and Kiwi neutral shoe polish for the release agent.
    You might look at a hardware store for the above items.
    "The older I get, the better I was."

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    Some hints I have learned over my bedding career:

    Tape the stock, bedding material (BM) will ooze out onto it no matter what you do.

    Use modeling clay to fill in the areas you do not want the BM to flow into.

    Always leave part of the barrel or action channel untouched with the dremel. This will help make sure you do not bed the rifle to low in the stock.

    Wrap some masking tape around the barrel at some point to help keep it centered in the barrel channel.

    Apply two coats of release agent.

    Once you bed it, don't touch it for 24 hours!

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    Member hntr's Avatar
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    I always run two or three pieces of masking tape down both sides of the action and wrap two or three around the barrel close to the end of the forearm. This raises the action up and when the glass dries and you take the tape off the action will not touch the stock except where the glass is. I always glass only behind the lug and the tang, everything else floats

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    What's even better is when you don't use enough release agent and your stock is permanently attached to your action...

  11. #11

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    Thanks All. Anyone know where to get Devcon 10110 in Fairbanks?

  12. #12
    Member gunbugs's Avatar
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    Most of the Devcon products are available at Alaska rubber and rigging on east Van Horn rd.
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