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Thread: Tub to run outboards?

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    Member JR2's Avatar
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    Default Tub to run outboards?

    Well I managed not to winterize my motors as I plan on still using the boat later next month... however I would like to run the motors in fresh water now just in case I don't get a chance to use it next month. Do any of you have a tub that you use to run a big outboard in? I tried my garbage can and it does not fit, I looked at a plastic barrel and its not bigger than my garbage can.... Going to do some measuring and check the big garbage cans at Lowes but thought I would check and see if anyone had some ideas. This would also get used in late Nov - early December to rinse out the motors as there will be no open water then.


    Thanks,

    John
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

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    How big of an outboard ? I may have something you can borrow.

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    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Lay a big tarp on the ground under your twins, take four pallets and ratchet strap them together on top of mentioned tarp, and then wrap up your "dunk tank" with the tarp. It should hold water long enough to serve the purpose. When we did this, we did have to cut the pallets to fit.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Member JR2's Avatar
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    Twin 150's but I can do one at a time.

    Pete - I like your idea... Might have to give that a try...
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

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    Quote Originally Posted by spoiled one View Post
    Lay a big tarp on the ground under your twins, take four pallets and ratchet strap them together on top of mentioned tarp, and then wrap up your "dunk tank" with the tarp. It should hold water long enough to serve the purpose. When we did this, we did have to cut the pallets to fit.
    That is a good idea, I have a few extra pallets lying around that I intended to make planters from and/or a "tote" that is 18"D x 30"W x 34" L. The pallets you are welcome to keep or burn or whatever, the tote is a shipping container for an engine so I need that back, but you are welcome to borrow it. Just PM me if you are interested.

  6. #6

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    Why can't you use the "earmuffs" and gardenhose?
    We never really grow up, we only learn
    how to act in public

  7. #7

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    Big 55gal plastic barrel cut open laid on the side, water will actual circulate around it, put garden hose in it to constantly keep it topped off. You can actually put it in gear with this set up, not recommended for more than a quick test or check. OR EAR MUFFS

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    Member JR2's Avatar
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    You can not get a big outboard up to temp and get the thermostat to open with ear muffs. If I recall correctly Honda say not to put the motor in gear with ear muffs.
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

  9. #9

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    I came up with the perfect solution for my boat (diesel w/ Volvo outdrive) using a 100 gallon rubbermaid stock tank purchased from a feed store.

    With the boat on the trailer, I level as best as possible using the tounge jack, raise the drive, slide the tank under the drive and block it up as high as possible, then fill to the brim. On mine the discharge water drains back in to the tank. Not sure on an outboard, but you could probably rig a deflector along the "pee stream" to achieve the same. I can run up to high idle in neutral without blowing too much water out due to exhaust turbulence, and get the stats to open. There is enough clearance to go into gear at low idle, but for me without a cover on the tank the prop wash blows the water out pretty quick. When I do that, it's usually the last thing I do just to turn the drive after re-filling just to make sure there are no air pockets.

    Being long and oblong, there is plenty of room for a large drive (mine is a DPD1) to fit. I can also drop my kicker (removed from the boat) in with the main drive in although it sits at an angle. Tank has a 2" bung at the bottom for draining.

    The rest of this post is long, and pertains to winterizing my particular engine, a Volvo AD31D w/DPD1 Outdrive. It may work on other Volvos as I think they are pretty much set up the same, but I'm not sure. If you have an outboard, are not interested, or already know how to do your particular system, don't bother reading.

    My procedure to winterize my I/O is:
    Test glycol mix for min temp. Make adjustments as needed.
    Start and run main in tank long enough to bring up to temp (about 20 mins for me).
    Change oil and filter.
    Start main, and run long enough to circ oil. Top off oil.
    Re-test glycol mix. Adjust and re-run till you have a -70 mix.
    Drain Tank
    The next few steps are overkill, but I'm big on overkill:
    Refill tank.
    Run engine a bit to warm up. I'm just treating the raw water side of mine, but if you are raw water cooled you would have to run long enough to get the stats to open or pull the stats.
    Shut down.
    Pull and clean raw water strainer.
    Pour a 1/2 pint of Salt-Away down the outlet side of the strainer.
    Start engine, run till you see Salt-Away foam coming out the discharge. Shut it off, and walk away for a day.
    Next day start and run engine for a few minutes.
    Shut down the main, then drop the kicker in the tank (Salt-Away/water mix) and run at high idle till the stats open. Pull the fuel line and let the kicker run dry. You can fog right before the kicker runs out of gas, but I usually just pull the plugs and squirt a little MM oil in each cylinder and pull it through a couple times.
    Done with overkill
    Drain and remove tank. You're done with it till pre-season run up.
    Lower Drive and drain lube. Check for water intrusion. Leave empty till spring.
    Pull key out of ignition. Put in Gallon zip-lock at helm. Include a note to self to fill the drive.
    Pull impellor from raw water pump (note how fins on impellor are oriented), put impellor in zip-lock with key. This keeps the impellor fins from getting a set during the 8 months the pump isn't turning. Replace cover and gasket on pump. This will keep the gasket flat. Screws just need to snug.
    Pull outlet hose from raw water pump,and inlet hose to strainer, basically isolating the pump and strainer. Pull discharge hose from exhaust elbow. Open raw water drains. When all has drained out that will, close raw water drains. Using a compressor with a blow gun fitting blow air gently (I just cup my hand around the hose and blow gun using my fingers as a relief valve) into outlet hose from pump. A surprising amount of water will come out of the exhaust elbow hose. The drains don't drain the system completly.
    Make up hose and fittings to plumb a transfer pump discharge into the pump outlet hose (I use a Little Giant 120v pump. It's overkill, but I have other uses for it on my boat. And like I said before, I'm big on overkill. A hand pump will do the job) . Intake from transfer pump goes into a pail or plastic dish pan. Plumb exhaust elbow hose to the pail or dish pan.
    Pour 2 gallons of -100 RV antifreeze into dish pan. Start pump, and circ this through your system. Antifreeze will be recycled through engine and back into container. Do this for a few minutes. Remove pump plumbing from pump outlet hose. Open raw water drains and catch what you can in container. Close drains and blow air again into strainer outlet hose. Once again a suprising amount of antifreeze will come out into your container.
    Gently blow air through inlet hose to strainer, blowing out any water that is in the intake lines from the drive and the power steering cooler. Pour a quart of your captured antifreeze down this hose till it runs out the drive intake port, then blow the antifreeze out of this line.
    Gently blow air into the exhaust elbow cooling inlet to remove any water that might be in that line. Usually not much will come because it's all down hill from there, and has probably already drained out.
    Open drain petcocks and leave hoses off till spring. I got tired of the petcocks failing after a few years and just use a suitable pipe plug. I remove the plugs completely and put them in the bag with the key, impellor and my note about the drive lube.
    At this point all that is in the raw water side is air and whatever -100 RV antifreeze hasn't come out yet. My glycol side is protected down to -70 . Slim to no chance for any surprises come spring.
    I use what captured antifreeze I have left to winterize my RV.
    Total time to winterize if you have all your tanks, pumps fittings, hoses and fluids about 4 man hours not counting the time I let the Salt-Away do its thing.
    Re-comissioning in the spring is simple.
    Re-fill drive per drive instructions. Know what you are doing here or you will be in for a suprise.
    Place tank under drive and fill tank to brim. Make sure props are clear of tank sides. This will be important later.
    Replace drain plugs or close drain petcocks.
    Re-install raw water pump impellor, verifying correct fin orientation. Make sure you grease the impellor, as it will be running dry till the inlet side gets water pulled up. KY-jelly or surgical lube is good because it is water soluble and washes out once the system is running. I grease it up and the pack the pump/impellor cavity before installing the gasket and cover.
    With a garden hose with a valve on the end or your transfer pump, run water into raw water pump outlet hose. When water comes out your exhaust elbow inlet hose the system is filled. Re-install exhaust elbow inlet hose and raw water pump outlet hose.
    Run as much water down the strainer inlet hose as it will take. Re-install strainer inlet hose.
    Pull strainer cover and fill with as much water as it can take. Button up strainer.
    Check oil level and coolant level.
    Start engine, bump just a little above idle, and immediately check for water flow in the raw water side. It should be starting to flow in the time it takes to walk from the helm to the back of the boat. If it doesn't flow within 30 secs or so, shut down and check connection on the inlet side of the strainer, it may be sucking air, and not allowing suction.
    If it's pumping water, warm a bit, then bump up the idle and check for leaks in the raw water hoses and fittings. You should have no surprises as far as cracked blocks, busted manifolds or ruptured hoses because you did a good job of winterizing last fall, and there was nothing in the raw water passages to freeze.
    Check alternator output.
    I usually then shut down, and change my fuel filters at this time. Reason being, if it doesn't start after I change the filters, I know it is the filters, and I still have air in the lines. I know this because it started fine just a few minutes ago before I screwed with the filters.
    Start and run at high idle to check thermostat operation. Check again for cooling or fuel leaks.
    If all is well, shut down, button it up. At this time get your kicker out of the garage, and drop it in the tank. Using last years plugs fire it up, burn off the MM oil or fog and check pee stream. If all is well, shut it down, put in fresh plugs, and fire it up running at high idle till the stats open. If all is well with the kicker remove it from tank.
    Start the main again, leave at low idle, and BRIEFLY shift the drive first into forward and then into reverse. I say BRIEFLY, because when you do it with a large drive you will blow much of the water out of the tank. The running in gear is only to release any air pockets that may be in the drive after filling. Shut down immediately after this shifting.
    At this point, drain and store the tank. You're done with it till next fall.
    Lower the drive, let it sit for a bit then check drive fluid level and top off per drive instructions.

    At this point you are done. Drag your boat to the ramp with the knowledge that you won't be that guy with his boat off the trailer, engine cowling up, looking for a jump start to get his POS out of everyones way. Total time to re-commission about 3 man hours because you have no surprises from last fall.

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    Member pacific23's Avatar
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    If you are running the big Honda just use the screw on hose attachment. If you want to open the T-stats run it on the ears , when running on the ears the motor WILL HEAT UP FAST , that's why Honda say use the hose flush attachment .
    Not recommended to put motor in gear OR throttle up above a idle when on the muffs, about 5 to 10 min. on the muffs will get you where you want to be , be sure to watch and feel the pee stream [ ON THE MOTOR ] not yours you do not have time to play while running Engines.

    When finished be sure to tilt the motors all the way down so water will drain out of the lower unit .

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    Member JR2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pacific23 View Post
    If you are running the big Honda just use the screw on hose attachment. If you want to open the T-stats run it on the ears , when running on the ears the motor WILL HEAT UP FAST , that's why Honda say use the hose flush attachment .
    Not recommended to put motor in gear OR throttle up above a idle when on the muffs, about 5 to 10 min. on the muffs will get you where you want to be , be sure to watch and feel the pee stream [ ON THE MOTOR ] not yours you do not have time to play while running Engines.

    When finished be sure to tilt the motors all the way down so water will drain out of the lower unit .

    That sure would be easier and I could run some salt-a-way through the motors at the same time. I was thinking about it and I can pull water straight out of my hot water heater from the house... anyone see a problem doing that? I would be doing that in late Nov, early Dec after going deer hunting.
    2007 Kingfisher 2825 - Stor Fisk

    Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top. -- Hunter S. Thompson

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    Quote Originally Posted by JR2 View Post
    Do any of you have a tub that you use to run a big outboard in?
    Mine is little (15HP) but with the Doel-fin it looks a little bigger on the bottom:


  13. #13
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    Can you get one of those hose attachments for spraying fertilizer [ The water siphons the product out of the bottle ] and put your salt away in it and rock on ? Your motor WILL get HOT and open the T-stats running on the ears .

    That time of year to flush the motor ....HOT water freezes faster than cold water so watch the ambient temps .

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    Quote Originally Posted by FamilyMan View Post
    Mine is little (15HP) but with the Doel-fin it looks a little bigger on the bottom:

    This is how I used to do it with my volvo outdrive, cheap and very effective, should work fine for your outboards
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